This maybe more of opion thing then fact.

We all know the rule of thumb that 1 lb. rotating weight equals 10 lbs. sprung weight. My question does this apply to front wheel and tire weight also? Yes it is rotating. Is it adding more or less load to engine same as rear wheels or flywheel weight? Engine has to work harder to spin those if weigh more. Can see where rolling easier like with better bearings help reduce power used.Does it also take more power to roll front tier over if it weighs 5 lbs more than another equal power to haul 50 lbs heavier driver down the track?

If so change front wheels on FED from weld aluma star(original) to wire spoke would shave .15 off et 15 lbs less x 10 for rotating. Sorry I find that super hard to believe.

To show my open mindness. I made the gentleman I who got me started ont his a deal. He is in business selling wheels. After I get a tuneup and car making consistent run. I will do ABA testing of his wheels which I will buy . If car drop et he stated(1/8 equivalent) We are good if not he rfunds me 75% of cost. I figure hell kind of want to get wheels later on anyway. Why not try to get them at 275 instead of 1100,plus I do not but dropping that much et from 15 lb lighter wheels up front. Hell if does I may have to buy set of GY's from him which are 25# vs 34# MT'S at 10:1 and 100 equal .1 that's bunch.LOL

It makes a difference but not nearly as much as in the engine. The wheel isn't accelerating at nearly the rate of the engine rotating assembly.In terms both of rpm rise and fall, or total rpm.

Your car has to be dialed in and consistent before you can tell anything. I can pretty much guarantee you that you are going to have some issues at first. So my advice is still the same. Get it out there and run it to see what it needs and try to figure out how to resolve the issues from there.

Until you can get the car to repeat run after run then an ABA test is useless.

A front engine dragster is a different animal and has to be perfect before it will work right. Not as forgiving as a typical four link rear engine dragster and it will show on your et's until you get it sorted out.

Has nothing to with running car now. iT IS just a question about how weight effect in relation to rotating weight apply's to front wheels.Which type car has nothing to do with it.

I heard you first ten time about needing to run car.Well heard once ignored mostly 9. PM sent on subject.

quote:

A front engine dragster is a different animal and has to be perfect before it will work right. Not as forgiving as a typical four link rear engine dragster and it will show on your et's until you get it sorted out

Not to high jack the post but Im Just curious what this is based on? My fathers front engine dragster photo copies time slips. I wish I could get my rear engine car to run as consistent. I am wondering what makes you say that they are less forgiving? While the set up is a little different than a rear engine car I can tell you that they can be deadly consistent.

quote:

Originally posted by MasRacing:

quote:

A front engine dragster is a different animal and has to be perfect before it will work right. Not as forgiving as a typical four link rear engine dragster and it will show on your et's until you get it sorted out

Not to high jack the post but Im Just curious what this is based on? My fathers front engine dragster photo copies time slips. I wish I could get my rear engine car to run as consistent. I am wondering what makes you say that they are less forgiving? While the set up is a little different than a rear engine car I can tell you that they can be deadly consistent.

Well from all of the trouble I have had this year with my new dragster and talking to friends with front engine cars. I am getting closer and think it is going to be a really good car when I do. Once car is right it should print slips, just got to get it there.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
To show my open mindness. I made the gentleman I who got me started ont his a deal. He is in business selling wheels. After I get a tuneup and car making consistent run. I will do ABA testing of his wheels which I will buy . If car drop et he stated(1/8 equivalent) We are good if not he rfunds me 75% of cost. I figure hell kind of want to get wheels later on anyway. Why not try to get them at 275 instead of 1100,plus I do not but dropping that much et from 15 lb lighter wheels up front. Hell if does I may have to buy set of GY's from him which are 25# vs 34# MT'S at 10:1 and 100 equal .1 that's bunch.LOL

Chris take a truck tire and rim and push it up a hill now take the same tire without a rim and push it up the same hill !

ok guys we know,dont need to tell all the RED guys. LOL

Bill,

Tell me do you think front wheel weight would be as effective as same amount of weight change with rear wheel and tires.

Rear wheels and tires weigh much much more than the front tires do. Saving 10% on the rears could be 10Lbs. Saving 10% on the front could be 1 Lbs.

I say start where you can get biggest results first.

Not starting with any of them for while. Questions was. Does weight off front wheels ave same effective change as eight off rotating mass driven by engine. In other words. Taking 5 lbs off engine driven weight should be equal to 50 off car or .05. So would taking same 5 lbs off front give you same gains since its not driven directly off engine?

I am not questing where biggest gain is,tht's pretty basic. Just would they be equal on the rotating part.

I know for fact the old rule of 100 equals .10 is dang close have tested and proven that my self. Never really seen the 1=10 for rotating weight work out. If so changing my MT3074's for goodyear 2585 would give a.18 (34 vs 25 per tire)drop in et from tire weight alone and then more with smaller wheels not sure what 14 vs 12's would be.

Not asking where to gain either.After 37 years of hard core gearhead,living and breathing go fast. I have better than average idea of where to get best bang for buck is. The jug with nitro in it.LOL Again just asking question on rotating weight driven by engine being equal to rotating weight thats just rolling along. Seemed simple enough.

Apples to oranges but, Years ago my 69 Camaro street car ran consistent low 12's. It was all stock appearing and weighed close to 3700lbs with me in it. I ran it with it Chevy ralley wheels, weld draglites and weld pro stars and the 60' never changed nor did it's et. That was all on the same Mcreary street tire. Obviously a lighter wheel/tire combo is better, but it meant nothing to my mild 454.

I would expect little if any gain in your application ........

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
Obviously a lighter wheel/tire combo is better, but it meant nothing to my mild 454.

I would expect little if any gain in your application ........

Similar experience with my high 12's '69 Camaro. Ralleys to Centerlines was worth very little, for the price anyway. Huge difference in weight, especially the front wheel/tire.

So you two fellas are saying my wager on $1100 set of wire wheels that are 15 lbs total lighter changing my car ONCE its worked out be worth .10 or better is pretty safe on my side?

quote:

Originally posted by Brktracer:

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
Obviously a lighter wheel/tire combo is better, but it meant nothing to my mild 454.

I would expect little if any gain in your application ........

Similar experience with my high 12's '69 Camaro. Ralleys to Centerlines was worth very little, for the price anyway. Huge difference in weight, especially the front wheel/tire.

Would you say little difference was just total weight change of car?Using the 100#=.1 rule. and not the 1#=10# for rotating rule.

i had my car totally dialed in and on front had street tires with tubes and changed to goodyear racing tires with on tubes and car picked up one tenth.. it was running 9.90s

uht oh. that sounding bad for my side.LOL

Just to clarify. Tires same diameter? Same rollout. Any idea what weight difference was? Rough guess works here,you don't to prove your work.Man thats flash back to school.LMAO

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
This maybe more of opion thing then fact.

We all know the rule of thumb that 1 lb. rotating weight equals 10 lbs. sprung weight. My question does this apply to front wheel and tire weight also? Yes it is rotating. Is it adding more or less load to engine same as rear wheels or flywheel weight? Engine has to work harder to spin those if weigh more. Can see where rolling easier like with better bearings help reduce power used.Does it also take more power to roll front tier over if it weighs 5 lbs more than another equal power to haul 50 lbs heavier driver down the track?

If so change front wheels on FED from weld aluma star(original) to wire spoke would shave .15 off et 15 lbs less x 10 for rotating. Sorry I find that super hard to believe.

First your rule of thumb is wrong! Where the added rotational weight is place matters!

Second, you are talking about adding or subtracting 5 drops of water in a large lake! It just doesn't matter.

Case I point, 7.3 dragster ran the exact same ET and MPH with bead lock's vs no bead locks, same tires!

Move on to something more important.

old rule is 1 lb of rotating equals 9 to 10 lbs depending on who you hear it from. HAve never seen or heard where as part of it, Never said I agree with rule.I do agree with where it is does. 1 lb out of axle is not same as 1 lb off tire weight. Also don't agree that off rear end is near same as off flywheel.

I agree with have seen no difference most of the time as in your example with bead lock's and most of that difference is towards outer part of mass.

Again its mostly a opinion thread and all are good.Some opinions backed by have seen work and good amount of have not seen it work out.