I have coolers built for car. Pit cooler that will circulate fluid threw transmission and conveter.One for ebgine oil also but that easy

Doing a pit cooler for a few reasons. Less weight of course is one. Fewer connections for damn leaks.

Pretty sure I know area to tap into to push fluid back threw converter. Like to dbo check that before drilling VB. Pluis have to check that billet has same dead pocket. Located at rear of vb and seems to go no where. I think in rear right with VB mounted.

Can anyone verify that or hell correct it. I do not have vb off. Doing this weekend.

Also, any reason not to have an onboard cooler coil and fan also other than a damn leak.NOT LOL.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
I have coolers built for car. Pit cooler that will circulate fluid threw transmission and conveter.One for ebgine oil also but that easy

Doing a pit cooler for a few reasons. Less weight of course is one. Fewer connections for damn leaks.

Pretty sure I know area to tap into to push fluid back threw converter. Like to dbo check that before drilling VB. Pluis have to check that billet has same dead pocket. Located at rear of vb and seems to go no where. I think in rear right with VB mounted.

Can anyone verify that or hell correct it. I do not have vb off. Doing this weekend.

Also, any reason not to have an onboard cooler coil and fan also other than a damn leak.NOT LOL.

I run a transmission cooler to keep it from getting too hot and help keep temperature in the range I want it. If you just put a loop around on transmission line it will get hotter quicker and that changes your consistency. Could gain a bunch of heat during the run and that would make it hard to be consistent. I do not see any way I would be using a pit cooler type set up. I do not want to pull in, jack up car and hook up and run cooler after every pass. I set up my car so it will maintain and stay in temp I want. If you ever get in final rounds you will NOT have time to cool your transmission remotely.

On my personal Altered I have a mechanical thermostat that returns most of the fluid back to transmission until it gets up to temperature. Once it reaches temperature it flows 100% through cooler. After it gets hot then I have a electric thermostat on the fan that kicks on to keep it cool.
It is simple, effective and works. I do not have to lift a finger or worry about it. My data logger has verified it so I no longer worry about it. Something like this.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/irp-fsc-185

For all transmission lines I recommend PTFE line hose. It does not get soggy or soft with fluid like many of the hoses can. PTFE is not for everything but for fuel and transmission lines it is great.

If you are dead set on doing it the hard way then look online at the others for installation instructions of their product. It should tell you exactly how to hook it up.

I would spend my time and effort on about 50 other things before I would worry about a pit cooler.

People only add pit coolers when their on board cooler can't keep up between rounds, so given the amount of rounds you actually make, I wouldn't waste the time and effort.

^^^^^^^^^ AGREED!! Brandon from FTI responded to the question “How hot is too hot for a transmission? “ and his reply was 210* . Until you reach that temp consider what you have good.

You are hung up in the go fast thinking. That will get you additional maintenance and less reliability in this case.

Looked online for where to tap into valvebody so it push threw converter. Ddi not find anything execpt for info in pumping it from the pan thru the cooler and back into transmission using the connection and 3 valve in the cooler line. I have been told works fine but not as good as pumping thru the converter.

Not worried at all about building it is built. Just wanting to verify the location to tap ino valve body. W@Ith mothing for cooling except for onbaord cooler for transmission. I want to have the option if I need to use and other than 150 bucks in both transmission and oil cooler pumps I have nothing except parts lying around in it.

After blowing the PTFE line to Oberg in half last year I am not the believer in them I used to be. Have easy access to crimped hoses from a local hydraulic supplier in about any kind of hose I want and after last year's issue with Shyt leaking anything over 100 psi is being replaced.

If not go fast mode what is the point of a race car? Having a car to work on was the whole reason for building a car. That and keeping me from hopping Harley up more.Who can afford a blower for harley when have race car?

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:

If not go fast mode what is the point of a race car? Having a car to work on was the whole reason for building a car. That and keeping me from hopping Harley up more.Who can afford a blower for harley when have race car?

I can't afford racing . That is why I run brackets instead. Take care. Tom Worthington

Just use that money to race.

Playing in the garage is fun but doesn't make sense if you never go to the track.
Spend the money at Farmington!

I don't know anyone that bracket races using an external trans cooler.

For the love of God, just go race. You seemed to solved earlier issues. Go race!

My 2¢!!!

Almost all of us use transmission coolers on the car. They work. PTFE hoses work good as long as you do a good job on hose ends and you do not kink the hoses.

If you want to make a remote transmission cooler what ever but I still would run a cooler on the car.

I never said I would not have transmission cooler on car. I simply asked if any reason you can not have both since a transmission guy had buddy remove cooler on car when he added the pit cooler.

With no way of cooling the engine other than airflow and richening valve when needs quick drop. I built an engine oil cooler that takes less than 30 seconds to connect. It Holds same 8 quarts oil. I spray oil in Lifter Valley and pull from pan. While building it I figured heck just one more pump and I have a transmission cooler on same stand.

Can't run the car right now. Between jobs, hunting season, and weather. Might as well build something or take something apart and change it.

So far I see that nobody knows where to tap into the valve body to force flow back through the converter. Also that since nobody does something it should never be done.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
Also that since nobody does something it should never be done.

I'm pretty sure the Jones and FTI transmission cooler pump kits tap into the valve body. Realistically that would be a much more viable option for cooling. For what it's worth we regularly double enter multiple cars leaving in high gear. When things start going fast getting air to the converter and trans pan is more than enough to control the temperature.

That is what question was about in OP. What spot to tap valvebody. Will be talking to Dillon Monday and make sure same location of thier billet VB. No reason it should not be but at 550 bucks cheaper to ask.

David sent me a atricle from another manufacture and show the area I thought it was in is wrong. Which may or may have found when pulling VB.

Did it ever occur to you that maybe the reason you struggled with so much breakage, things going wrong and so many unsuccessful track outings this year just might be because you are making things ridiculously over complicated?

Nothing complicatede had issue. The standard issue trans cooler leaked, The ZFuel ump had a seal go away. The battery just decided it had enough. The one only piece that had issue that built was the vacuum pump drive,which none makes amount for this combo.

I changed steering box to rack and pinion for more driveablity thru pits.Coinnected primer to starter button to keep from flooding engine. Added SLE,which may be short-lived even after getting it to delay throttle openiong.I took the LO off that leaned at gear change. Did not romove richening vlave for cooling. Connect dat5a logger so it is reset in low gear but only when transbake is activated Car is about as simple as it gets.

At last outing, I figured out that the so called leak they said I had was simply fuel on the backside of the butterfly that would drip off when I rapped the throttle after burnout and backing up. Was no fuel leak just a starting line guy not knowing the difference in alky and oil. Cured by making new spraybar that directs fuel straight into ports. Does not super cool hat like other, but have way to do that on project list.

Not sure what is complicated about connecting two quick couple lines and flipping the switch. Right before backing out of pits unhook and go. Pretty much same as connecting battery chargers.

I have looked at car and what I could simplify. 90% was things for drivers to do during run. Heck making one of thos easier was what caused cooler leak. Most PIA is tigtening of seat belts in such tight area and lap belts not pulling as tight as would like.

Yea long reply but lots to cover about bore-a-fying car.LOL

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

quote:

Originally posted by BD104X:
Did it ever occur to you that maybe the reason you struggled with so much breakage, things going wrong and so many unsuccessful track outings this year just might be because you are making things ridiculously over complicated?

This year was that season for us. Can instantly changing stuff. Great learnings but limited the rounds we went. Next year is all about seat time for both cars.

This is not for all here but a few.

I find it funny as hell that I have been told how my stuff can not be run in brackets . One reason is the lack of cooling systems. Some of same guys are telling me how stupid it is to build something that is just extra cooling capabilities if ever needed.

Never mind that I never asked if I should or should not build it. Simply if anyone knew the correct location for drilling valvebody. Nothing more than attempt to do it last weekend instead of waiting till Monday to call FTI.

I never said I planned on using pit cooler every run or making it my only source of cooling for transmission. Just a Piece of equipment to have if needed.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

There is a Travis Elett on FB that sells a very nice looking trans cooler. I believe he circulates the fluid back through the converter via the outside of the cooler circuit on the transmission. You might send him a question or two about how he does it.
https://www.facebook.com/group...68286/user/214000761

In bracket racing you CAN run anything you want. Not required to drive a rear engine fourlink dragster with 632 BBC and tribal paint job. Now if you want to win you have to get your car to perform same every time and know exactly what it will do in weather changes.

You do that by keeping everything as consistent as possible, oil, water and transmission temperatures. Making car hook up good and same every time.

Even as a driver you need to be consistent.

The better you control the variables and make more consistent the more rounds and races you will win. I think it is cool that you run a Front Engine Dragster, that is different than most others out there. I loved driving mine and I will say this it is tougher to make them work. I think it is more rewarding and fun to drive the Front Engine Dragster. Never said it was easier and I liked the challenge.

In your situation I think best thing you could possibly do is get out there and make as many passes a day as you can. Seat time, monitor everything and find out what is getting out of range. Personally I think it is better to have a cooler on transmission to help cool it during the run than to get it hot and cool it back at your pit. Even though I think it is a waste of time and money if you want to try it go for it.

Once again though to answer your question there is several companies that sell that type system and I bet you can find installation instructions somewhere on line. That should tell you where the line should go.