This past Thanksgiving Race(s) I had an issue with excessive wheelies. Anyway, I had to neuter the car with front suspension changes & a launch retard. The results was a car that didn't dead hook the radial slicks at the hit & caused some wheel spin.

I have to take my hat off to the M/T Pro Bracket Radials. They spun at the hit & recovered, while still managing to hit 1.33 to 1.38 60's. Our Hoosier radials wouldn't recover & would shake your teeth out trying.

These results are from our experience & your results may vary.

2BKING is impressed with the M/T 29.5 x 10.5 Pro Bracket Radial!
 

I've never had one spin yet, without a clear mechanical cause. Down to 1.35's.
Even then, the recovery was quick.
The Goodyears I'd run previously did not recover well.
PBR's rule!

I've maybe had 2 runs where my Hoosier DBR have spun, and they did seem to recover better than the 'Stocker' versions ever did.

Still cost me at least a tenth over a 1/4 mile pass though.

Good to hear that, considering trying a set on the Camaro next season. What was the weather like for that race, Brian?

Because we race in extreme temperature variations here in TX, I would like to hear how they work in colder temps, (~45-50* ambient), as well as the Summer heat, (100*+ air temp).

Still very happy with the overall performance of the M/T bias slicks across a wide range of temperatures, although I need to ditch the stiff wall version and go to a standard sidewall, or try the PBR.

3200# door car, bottom bulb (footbrake and trans-brake).

quote:

Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
Good to hear that, considering trying a set on the Camaro next season. What was the weather like for that race, Brian?

Because we race in extreme temperature variations here in TX, I would like to hear how they work in colder temps, (~45-50* ambient), as well as the Summer heat, (100*+ air temp).

Still very happy with the overall performance of the M/T bias slicks across a wide range of temperatures, although I need to ditch the stiff wall version and go to a standard sidewall, or try the PBR.

3200# door car, bottom bulb (footbrake and trans-brake).

FBJ,

We run in the extreme temperature variations in Vegas also. The overnight lows was mid to high 30*s & the highs were low 60*s. We started early in the morning with temps in the 40*s. In June, Aug. & Sept. we run during the day with temps at 100*+. The only thing I do different with the tires is a slightly harder burnout when temps are below 50*.

The car was 3080#s with me in it & leave off the bottom bulb using a transbrake. The car pulled a best 60' of 1.302 in the cool morning air/track. Most of the runs were 1.32 60's. That's until I started restricting the front-end travel, stiffening the ext. on the front shocks & used the launch retard. With them changes the car still went a 1.38 60' with tire spin. Then I started working backwards with loosening the front end & got the 60's to 1.36 - 1.33. Still had some spin but was getting better.

The plan for the next race is leave the front suspension alone & work backwards with the launch retard (add power).

Hope that helps you out. If you have any other questions, ask.

2BKING

quote:

Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
Good to hear that, considering trying a set on the Camaro next season. What was the weather like for that race, Brian?

Because we race in extreme temperature variations here in TX, I would like to hear how they work in colder temps, (~45-50* ambient), as well as the Summer heat, (100*+ air temp).

Still very happy with the overall performance of the M/T bias slicks across a wide range of temperatures, although I need to ditch the stiff wall version and go to a standard sidewall, or try the PBR.

3200# door car, bottom bulb (footbrake and trans-brake).

38-40 degree test and tune track, and put up the all time best ET at every incremental.
In the heat, dragster style burnout is all you need. Quite frankly that's probably all they ever need, but I like to party.
I have turned my 2-step up until I got scared, and they never gave up.

Thanks Dave & Brian!

Only thing that has me on the fence about pulling the trigger on the PBR, is wondering how well they will hook off the footbrake. Would like to hear from anyone who has tried foot feeding with them. Everything I hear about radials is they need a good hit. The transbrake obviously does that, not so much with the foot.
Converter is an ATI Treemaster 8 inch that flashes to 5K-5200, but it leaves pretty smooth when footbraking, does not hit the tires as hard. Off the brake it is a much more violent leave.

quote:

Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
Thanks Dave & Brian!

Only thing that has me on the fence about pulling the trigger on the PBR, is wondering how well they will hook off the footbrake. Would like to hear from anyone who has tried foot feeding with them. Everything I hear about radials is they need a good hit. The transbrake obviously does that, not so much with the foot.
Converter is an ATI Treemaster 8 inch that flashes to 5K-5200, but it leaves pretty smooth when footbraking, does not hit the tires as hard. Off the brake it is a much more violent leave.

Jim, hit up Michael Beard about footbraking a PBR. I believe he has 400+ hits on his and they're stupid consistent.

I ran them on my car and I really like them. I run both footbrake and transbrake. They worked as good as the Hoosier radials I ran, but I saw more than double the life.


Recommend you at least bubble balance them as I have found they have been off enought to cause a vibration.

Good luck

I did footbrake the PBR's 4 times at a 2,500 rpm & it hooked just fine with 1.35 60's. I normally leave between 3,200 - 3,400 on the brake.

With the ProCharged combo I do have to do a biased ply slick style burnout to get the tires to hook. When the car was N/A I didn't do much of a burnout.

2BKING