quote:

He did recommend installing a recovery tank to replace my catch can.

I agree that a coolant recovery tank is better than a coolant catch tank. I use one that comes stock in my car that mounts perfectly in the original unused under hood area and is easy to monitor level. I keep it filled to a specific tape mark I placed and what I look at when finished racing the following day when cooled. This has alerted me several times that I had a coolant leak and avoided any serious problems at the track. I use a 7# coolant system cap running in the 175* range.

quote:

Originally posted by 69dart:
Thats really not that HOT - the engine need to get to at least 190 to burn the yuck out of the oil.

I agree it's not that hot; I only explained the differences in temps from N/A to supercharged. As for burning out the yuck, my raceday procedures for the engine is: engine warm-up/heat soak 200*-210* & end of the day engine temp to 200*-210*.

2BKING

You can probably modify your existing tank fairly easy

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by 69dart:
Thats really not that HOT - the engine need to get to at least 190 to burn the yuck out of the oil.

I agree it's not that hot; I only explained the differences in temps from N/A to supercharged. As for burning out the yuck, my raceday procedures for the engine is: engine warm-up/heat soak 200*-210* & end of the day engine temp to 200*-210*.

2BKING

I did not see where you said if it is gas or alcohol but if it is alcohol you may find it i faster at higher temps. And it keeps oil cleaner.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
I did not see where you said if it is gas or alcohol but if it is alcohol you may find it i faster at higher temps. And it keeps oil cleaner.

My car kept going faster and faster until about 190* where it leveled off. I also heat soak mine, get it up to around 210ish first....same at end of day

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by 69dart:
Thats really not that HOT - the engine need to get to at least 190 to burn the yuck out of the oil.

I agree it's not that hot; I only explained the differences in temps from N/A to supercharged. As for burning out the yuck, my raceday procedures for the engine is: engine warm-up/heat soak 200*-210* & end of the day engine temp to 200*-210*.

2BKING

I did not see where you said if it is gas or alcohol but if it is alcohol you may find it i faster at higher temps. And it keeps oil cleaner.

I'm on 100 UL pump gas with 50/50 water/meth injection.

2BKING

I have a standard 35 GPM Meziere water pump a Meziere recovery tank and a Davis cross flow radiator in my '27 Roadster (582). Unfortunately the nose of the fiberglass hood is blocked off so there is very little air flow to the radiator other than the electric fan.

Last week I changed the AN-12 lines to AN-16 in an effort to reduce the water temperature during the hot summer weather as well as reducing the cooling time between rounds. If this change doesn't get the water temperature down far enough I'm going to have Meziere's upgrade the pump to a 42 GPM unit (About $150). I'm counting on the increased AN-16 hose fixing the issue.

Jeg's has a thermostat housing (555-53018) that comes with a AN-16 outlet fitting just beware this housing takes a special 16# radiator cap, your
conventional cap won't work. In all I spent about $290 for the housing, the new cap, all the -16 fittings and the -16 hose. Meziere also has a thermostat housing (WN0015DR) that accepts a AN-16 male outlet. If all this doesn't work as a last resort I'm going to (reluctantly) open up the hood to increase the air flow through the radiator.

Bob

This message has been edited. Last edited by: RPROGAS,

quote:

If all this doesn't work as a last resort I'm going to (reluctantly) open up the hood to increase the air flow through the radiator.

You keep blowing 200 degree air on 200 degree coolant it will eventually get down to 200 degrees.

SL...

Last year I removed the hood after a run and placed a fan in front of the radiator, certainly a PITA but the only current solution. I'm hoping that the larger water lines (AN-16) and increasing the Meziere pump GPM help solve the problem. Failing that I will need to find a grill that I can attach (????) to the fiberglass hood, one that look like a stock unit. I don't want to goon-up the cars appearance.

Bob

The best reason for an outlet restriction, or thermostat, is to maintain head pressure in the block / heads to force coolant into the smaller passages and avoid hot spots.
You can move the coolant too fast to exchange heat efficiently.
You should have an approximately 40 degree drop through the radiator.

Disagree. The higher the velocity the higher the Reynolds number hence more turbulent, more turbulent reaults in higher thermal transfer that occurs. I cannot see any water pump on any car moving the water too fast.

quote:

Originally posted by RPROGAS:
Last year I removed the hood after a run and placed a fan in front of the radiator, certainly a PITA but the only current solution. I'm hoping that the larger water lines (AN-16) and increasing the Meziere pump GPM help solve the problem. Failing that I will need to find a grill that I can attach (????) to the fiberglass hood, one that look like a stock unit. I don't want to goon-up the cars appearance.

Bob

Bob,

Have you considered building a grill. I don't know what your stock unit looks like, but maybe you can find materials to build one or install the stock one.

While I haven't ordered the material yet, I found a place to purchase the grill material. It will be very similar to our factory grill & we are going to attach it on our fiberglass front-end. I provided the link where we are buying the material from.

2BKING

https://www.customcargrills.co...?prod=Perf_Rectangle

2BKING

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
Big thanks to 1leg (Jerry at Meziere Tech) for the informative phone conversation this afternoon. We are holding off on the 55 GPM pump for now. He did recommend installing a recovery tank to replace my catch can. I'm working on finding the one I want & fit with minimal fabrication.

2BKING

I bought the 55 GPM Meziere pump & bought a Jegs aluminum recovery tank. Need to get them installed, but in no hurry.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51135/10002/-1

2BKING

I just replaced the motor and impeller on my Meziere pump. I have no idea how old it is. I bought it used around 2008 or so I believe. I upgraded from the standard to the HD 42 gallon.

Goob, disagree, got the hot water out of the block as quickly as you can and into the radiator to cool it

Let me throw this bit of information at everyone. We must all remember that you must look at the size of the radiator when talking about cooling. If you are trying to pump as much water through the engine as possible to cool it better, that same flow will be going through the radiator. So if that radiator is small, it will not pull as much heat from the water fast enough (unless you are running a thermostat that will close) and you will just start overheating the water. That will, of course, cause slow cooling or even over-heating of the engine.

quote:

Originally posted by Wild Wild West 2:
Let me throw this bit of information at everyone. We must all remember that you must look at the size of the radiator when talking about cooling. If you are trying to pump as much water through the engine as possible to cool it better, that same flow will be going through the radiator. So if that radiator is small, it will not pull as much heat from the water fast enough (unless you are running a thermostat that will close) and you will just start overheating the water. That will, of course, cause slow cooling or even over-heating of the engine.

Yes and no.
It would have to be a very, Very, VERY small rad for that to happen. Most rads in drag cars this is not the case.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
Big thanks to 1leg (Jerry at Meziere Tech) for the informative phone conversation this afternoon. We are holding off on the 55 GPM pump for now. He did recommend installing a recovery tank to replace my catch can. I'm working on finding the one I want & fit with minimal fabrication.

2BKING

I bought the 55 GPM Meziere pump & bought a Jegs aluminum recovery tank. Need to get them installed, but in no hurry.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51135/10002/-1

2BKING

Spent some time installing the water pump today. I had to put the red neck lathe into action today for two alternator bracket standoffs for water pump clearance.

I'm not so sure I like the design/trust if it will work of the Jegs recovery tank. The vent of the tank goes into the old catch can. If need be, I can just bypass the recovery tank.

I guess I should have taken a pic.

2BKING

2BKING

The fans have airflow ratings and when I went back to gas on my dragster, I swapped in a fan with much higher CFM air flow. Same size and moubnting

SPAL.....yes they draw nearly twice the amps but I was at 200 sometimes on a real hot day and cooled down in minutes....rad. behind blow shield...

A big engine builds a lot of heat and most of it is after making the run so I coasted a lot on the return roads in an effort to keep the heat down...

It doesn't matter much on time runs but once you get into later rounds you are pretty much round robin by round 4 in a 7 round race...NHRA was always pushing to get finished...

I never once had an overheat or dead battery issue

My radiator had a pet**** on top to bleed the air since it was lower than the engine.....if I did not do that the temp would spike....gotta get all the air out....