Anyone else having multiple backlighting failures on their racepack dash. Lights quit again (3rd time in 5 years). I have to say that racepack did repair on both occasions free of charge but this is getting annoying. Is there something I can do to prevent this from happening? Am I doing something wrong? Racepack had no answers to those questions other than "most of the back lighting failures have been occurring in hot high humid climates, (south FLA). Not sure if I can replace the lights myself, heard they are some special type of lights and have to be installed in a certain way. Might go to analog gauges if need be. Thanks
RW

I assume it's vibration/tire shake ? I just got mine back from Racepak last month for the second time in 3 years myself.

just got mine back also. first time since 2012.

Must be an emp-tee thing no issues with my racepak dash, in service since 2013 while rolling on hoosiers.

guys, its caused by going past the 2nd round. This is due to making more than 3-4 passes in a day. It also makes sense why Mr. Ed Kardashians car hasn't had issues yet.....

I think my kid nailed what's causing the problem. While lashing valves, your bumping motor with starter. That display REALLY doesn't like it at all.

Thinking the rapid voltage spikes are killing the bulb.

PS, we have had his fixed 3 times, and its out again. They NEVER did it for free for me.

Trae's car, same thing.

2x all of the above. No pattern / use/abuse that I can identify. Interesting thought on voltage spikes when bumping.

The Iq3 family does not have this issue .

For those who have replied - what’s the breakdown of 12 vs 16 volt?

quote:

For those who have replied - what’s the breakdown of 12 vs 16 volt?

12V

quote:

Originally posted by Ballz:
I think my kid nailed what's causing the problem. While lashing valves, your bumping motor with starter. That display REALLY doesn't like it at all.

Thinking the rapid voltage spikes are killing the bulb.

PS, we have had his fixed 3 times, and its out again. They NEVER did it for free for me.

Trae's car, same thing.

That ain't the issue. My valve lash is checked after every race day. Again, no issues with my Racepak dash, in service since august 2013.

quote:

Originally posted by Greg Kelley:
For those who have replied - what’s the breakdown of 12 vs 16 volt?

12 volts.

[[/QUOTE]
That ain't the issue. My valve lash is checked after every race day. Again, no issues with my Racepak dash, in service since august 2013.



Well bless your heart! I didn't ask you,and,you don't know everything, you just think you do.

know more than you and know that bumping your engine to check your lash ain't the issue!

FYI, you did ask me. All that are registered here can reply which I did and of course you don't like the truth and the facts!

again, see above jackwagon

Mine is 16 volt. The bumping thing not an issue with mine as it is wired to come on with the ignition switch. I've wondered about 18.2 volt battery charger and I have ign on checking water temp between rounds.

12V and once, not free of charge. Mine is an early dash.

Oh, and my dash freaks out when starting on anything more than a full charge.

Customer car here, 16 volt, no backlight when it arrived. He bought the car with the racepak in it a few years ago and said it never worked. Not sure what previous owner did.

My iq3 dash has been back 3 time in 3 years for segments burning out racepak has fixed it everytime for free. I asked about voltage they said it could handle 24vdc

Do other brands have same problems?

quote:

Originally posted by MOPDRAGSTER:
Mine is 16 volt. The bumping thing not an issue with mine as it is wired to come on with the ignition switch. I've wondered about 18.2 volt battery charger and I have ign on checking water temp between rounds.

Must have an electric temp gauge, wire it through your master disconnect that way you can see the temp as long as you’re main power is on and not your ignition.
BB the way I wire them.

exactly!