I was under my duallie recently and was surprised at how rusty the brake lines are, especially around the anti lock unit. I expect problems in the future.
I was surprised since it only sees salt and snow a few times a year. It is 17 years old though.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Don R,

I did more research and see that it's common. I was once a GM fan but this truck has cured me. Between the rattling steering column cured under warranty by packing with grease, piston slap that can't be proven because they removed the piston cylinder clearances from the books, dash failure.
Let me rephrase my question to which line kits are best and do you have any replacement tips? I'm seeing hints like remove the bed and buy a scanner for bleeding abs.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Don R,

i have a 06 dually. The line going to the front right wheel under the radiator rusted out. This is a florida truck so the lines gm used must of been junk or maybe from china. I think i ordered new lines from rock auto. They come in a box with tape marking where they bent them so you can straighten them out. I got the line in but it wasn't fun. I recommend removing the skid plate under the radiator and checking the brake line for anyone that has one of these trucks specially if your towing with it.

Dorman makes a kit GM has a kit that the lines are coated with plastic I like the Classic Tubes kit in stainless

I used copper coated soft bendable steel tubing and replaced all my brake lines. The fittings are metric. It’s not that hard. One line at a time. Bleeding the system was easy. Turn key on and bleeds easy thru the abs motor. I just replaced the fuel lines and fuel cooler. My pickup is a Duramax. I bought Dorman stainless lines for the fuel lines. Installing any pre bent lines is gonna be real hard on the brakes. The brake lines on my rear axle also rusted thru. NJ winters....

I replaced my lower steering column right after I bought the truck. Easy job. No noise since and 50,000 miles

Replaced trans cooler lines twice and made custom ones myself after GM line puked. My lines never leaked since installed.

2007 GMC

Rust never sleeps !

I have a 95 & a 98 Chevy truck. Both rusted out from the cab union to the rear end.

I used nickel/copper(nicopp) to replace them and no problems so far. Luckily everything else has held up so far and looks good.

I did drop the fuel tanks to replace them to put into the factory holders.

Nicopp is easy to bend and easy to flare. Bought it in a coil and to straighten it out run it through a block of wood with a slightly larger hole in a vise.

My two cents

Thanks for the input, I'm leaning towards the stainless dorman kit. Man they make it difficult to find this stuff online. Search seems to show you what they want to sell not what you searched for. Jegs and Summit's search is nearly worthless until you find the part number.

In case it makes anyone feel better or worse it is not just GM that has brake line rust. Pick a brand.

Nicopp line for the win.
Just buy it in a roll as you will be replacing all of the lines sooner or later.
Seems like once you replace a leaker the next weakest in line one blows.

I replaced all of mine for under $400. Not a terrible job, but BS that it even needs to be done...

Yea I used that Nicopp line myself. It’s easy to work with and I reused some of the old metric fittings. Just don’t mix up any lines on the ABS module.

Like I said bleeding is easy but turn the ignition key to on and you can bleed it using old school methods.

My pre bent fuel lines were way harder to install. Front section was very difficult and I still have the 2 on the fuel tank to do. Have to either raise bed or drop tank. It is possible to lift bed on one side only like a hinge. Luckily only my return line broke and I have it temporarily repaired with a short piece of rubber,diesel rated fuel line.

The liquid brine being sprayed on the roads is very corrosive!

I got mine from here. Probably cheaper elsewhere.
https://store.fedhillusa.com/

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Dave Koehler,

Rock Auto was around $77 for the stainless Dorman kit. I got it from my buddy at Advance for $95 tax and all. I'll spend a little more there because they help with our car show.
I hadn't thought about the fuel lines at all, shizzle. If I pull the bed I'll do those too. It looks like either my buddy's shop or an outdoor job so I hope it's warm in the spring. Probably a good time to replace the trailer hitch too.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Don R,

In-line Tube here in Michigan makes really nice stuff

Here is their complete stainless kit for your truck $155
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/sntb1011

I replaced the brake line on my 03 crew cab with the in-line tube stainless kit. I have no complaints about the kit, very east to use and good quality.

NAPA has a complete stainless kit that's really nice. It's a perfect fit, and the price was good. You have to make sure you really tighten the fittings though. They'll feel tight, but you have to go further or they don't seal.

Did a complete set on a Chevy truck for a customer, he supplied the lines and they were right from GM. Said they were cheap. Took 7 hours and I reroute the rear one and did not drop the fuel tank. Used a scanner to bleed the the HCU.

Holy cow, a Dorman fuel line kit from rock auto is $260 and most other places it's $340.

I used a Dorman fuel line kit from Rock Auto
The stuff is ok but cheap stainless braid.

The layout diagram was wrong and the engine end flexible parts were too long making that part of the install very difficult. No room for the added length. Barely able to make it fit.

Cut old stuff out in sections. Remove oil filter and front driveshaft ( 4x4 ) and wrestle it all in there.

2 more lines on tank that join up with Dorman kit.

Those 2 were $160 from Lines to Go in Canada and I did not install those yet. Have to tilt bed up or drop tank. They can wait....

quote:

Originally posted by Don R:
Holy cow, a Dorman fuel line kit from rock auto is $260 and most other places it's $340.

Might as well go ahead and get the transmission lines too. All the lines rust into on these trucks. I have done replaced every line on mine and everything came from rockauto.

Like Dave K said, this is not a GM problem, every brand of vehicle has steel brake lines rust out.
He and Rich mentioned using NiCopp lines, (which are Nickel/Copper), they do not rust, but are rather pricey.
Same company (AGS, in Muskegon, MI), makes 2 other brands that are very flexible, (by hand, seriously, no tubing bender required!).
Double Zinc, and Poly Armour. The DZ lines have 10x the corrosion resistance of standard steel lines, and look like factory lines only nicer. The PA version is 30x resistant to corrosion, and has a poly vinyl fluoride coating, (kind of a dark greenish-gray color).

I re-plumbed the brake lines on my mother-in-law's '97 T-Bird. It had fluid leaks in about 20 places. Couldn't find any pre-bent steel lines for it. I used the Poly Armour stuff, (it was about $30 for a 25 foot roll). Made the job probably easier & faster than using pre-bent steel lines. Stuff was amazing to work with, no kinks, flared easily, no leaks at all afterward. If you know what lengths you need, you can get straight sections of various lengths at places like NAPA and O-Really, with fittings on both ends.
Check it out here:
AGS Poly Armour Brake Line
I will never use anything else, unless restoring a classic show piece (unlikely).
Oh, and they also make it sized for fuel and cooler lines.

Don, I found out they do make a kit specific for your vehicle, it is the NiCopp line, all fittings installed, and around $145. Don't know if your truck is 2 or 4 WD, and 2 or 4 door, Ext cab, etc. May want to take a look, they say it is good for the life of the vehicle, (whatever that may be).
EZ-Fit NiCopp Kits

This message has been edited. Last edited by: FootbrakeJim,