DRR Top Comp
| will run ok.But,there is always abut. The small valve size will be a big limit. I would think you could shop around and find some bigger valves and get heads done fairly cheap. Sanll chambers can help with compression and hurt if they shroud the valves. Camshaft duration has to work with compression,induction flow,cars weight,gearing and transmission. Lots to take into account.If running a basically stock bottom end I would stay below 12:1 and that might be pushing it.11:1 night be even better.Keep rpm at 7000 max gear according.Go to Wallace calculator and it will help there. If it was me. I think about selling heads if they are pure stock and especially if they are off 400. Take what you can get and put little to it and get set of after market iron heads with bigger valve and better ports.Nothing high dollar just dart iron eagle or something of that nature with say 2.02/1.60 valve.JMO but then sticking to a budget has never worked for me
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| Posts: 4547 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011 |
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DRR Pro
| You also need to consider air flow through the head. Bigger engines need more air flow. The OEM head is probably very restrictive. Even an inexpensive aftermarket head would be better right out of the box. Larger valves, better flow through the head, screw in studs ,thicker deck surface. To use any aftermarket head on a 400 block, you just need to get some 400 head gaskets and drill the steam holes in the heads. As mentioned above, small chamber may boost compression ratio but it also shrouds the valves. With the 400, they all came with dish pistons. Just switching to some flat tops will increase the compression ratio. Unless you're building a stock replacement engine for a daily driver, there's no such thing as a budget build. |
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DRR Trophy
| There is so much to think about and learn. I know I don't want to stay entirely stock bottom end. The small chambered heads will probably be an issue with trying to go with valves that will help it breath. I have an Edelbrock Performer EPS intake I'll be using, and looking for a 800cfm Holley, but might go wit have 750 do. I really want around an 11:1 or a hair over because I want to go E85 with it. Building it woth the idea that it can still be street driven, but not going to be often.already going to have to get the e85 conversion for the Holley, or find one that is already set up for it. Kind of thinking it may be better to start simple and rebuild it later for more power, but is that worth it? Looking at Linati VooDoo Hydraulic flat tappet, 489 intake, 504 exhaust lift, 227 intake 233 exhaust duration at 50. Might bump it up one more size if the larger engine would benefit and still be kinda streetable. Around 2,800 stall on a th400. Any suggestions which way to go on heads with that kind of setup? Also, maybe for now, max compression for 93 octane pump gas? Might hold off on the visions of grandeur E85 plans. |
| Posts: 4 | Location: Temple, TX | Registered: August 02, 2014 |
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DRR Top Comp
| CR compression ratio.Most cam manufacture will be asking same thing. Nothing wrong with asking its how you learn all this crap that some of here have been doing forever and that can be long time.LOL You will need to know what kind of cam you want also. Hydraulic= zero maintenance. Not as consistent.Also cheaper. Solid= will have to adjust valves every now and then.Little more cost.More consistent which is king in brackets. Roller cam= True race cam.Lot more cost.More maintenance. Very consistent and allows changing cams latter w/o having to buy lifters I would say hydraulic or solid for you deal' I would keep it around 235 degree at .050 lift or about 280 degrees advertised duration. Basically a stout street cam. Biggest thing is it has to work with everything in car.Transmission(guessing 3 spd auto TH400) converters stall if not changing you might want to stay smaller than above numbers. Rear end gear ratio. 3.73 to 4.10 depending on which is main target track or street. Don't get stupid big tires a 9" or maybe 10" slick will be more than enough if you go slicks route. Go to local track and see what others with similar ride are doing and if it works well. Lof cheaper to buy correct piece first time out than buy multiple pieces to see which will work. Bigger is not always better either.
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| Posts: 4547 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011 |
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