I bought a notchback Mustang. I have some questions about possible use as replacement for my old slow bracket car.

Has a 460 based stroker (500+ cu.in.) , C4 and 9" rear (4.10 w/posi). Ignition is full grid setup with crank trigger. Uses aluminum heads, mech roller and a dominator. Also has 2-1/4" headers. Has coilovers at all 4 corners and tubular k member. 28x10.5x15 Hoosier slicks.

Things I notice and am curious about:

Car seems nose heavy, seems to sit at bottom of front suspension travel. Putting it up on stands it looks like bump steer could be an issue. Is there any books/resources that cover suspension setup on these?

Has some kind of posi, I expected a spool. Also has 35 spline axles. Is there a particular benefit to either for bracket racing?

The only history and recorded runs were trying to run 6.50 index which killing 10 degrees of advance and holding 6000 artificial rpm limit in grid still went too fast.

Sorry for long post, new to stuff with dist on opposite end of block.

Any insights would be appreciated.

Plenty of info on them out there, small tire outlaw cars going real fast on stock suspension. Does it still have an 8.8 rear?,if so just pull the cover. What does it have for rear suspension? Is it still stock location 4 link? Heavy engine, what front springs? Easy to convert to coilovers.

Unless it's a Detroit Locker, the posi unit will not last. Always spool a drag car. You should be able to sell the posi unit for more than the cost of a new spool.

Stock style 4-bar rear suspension is fine.

It will be nose heavy with the BBF, at rest sitting near the bump stops doesn't hurt a thing. Even my smallblock Aluminum headed car is 54% on the front. Front end travel is your friend, unless you're footbraking.

Try to identify the front subframe and seek setup advice from the manufacturer.

The C-4 is a real weak link.

Thanks Goob.

I will try to find plate on k member/lca's.

The posi may be a detroit locker, one wheel makes ratcheting sound then engages, other does not seems engaged all the time. I have spare spooled center in extra car.

It does sit very low, can try adjusting front coil overs some after I test ride. I know some guys who race while sitting on stops, just no familiar with mustangs.

Rear suspension looks like stock type setup with HD adjustable stuff and coil overs.

I been warned off C4 but expect to swap to glide in any event.

Car looks fine overall. Has not made many passes due to owner health issues. Just do not have much info beyond cam specs on engine. I understand went 6.30 set up very soft and sitting on rev limiter from grid graph.

Check rear upper control arm bushings, if original style replace with spherical aluminum. Upper and lower control arm mounting points should be heavily reinforced and larger bolts if possible. I've seen the bolts bend and break.

Muggs,

What year is the car?

2BKING

1985.

Has HD stuff, adjusters on top links and looks like aftermarket bushings. Lower rear control arms are square tube and looks like bolts bigger than my camaros.

quote:

Originally posted by muggs:
1985.

Has HD stuff, adjusters on top links and looks like aftermarket bushings. Lower rear control arms are square tube and looks like bolts bigger than my camaros.

If that car has already gone sub 6.50's on that tire, it's working well.

Loose spragless converter will be the ticket for your trans upgrade.

I like my 2.10 low 3-speed TH-400, but that's just me. It has required no service in the last 3500 or so runs....

Below is what I think about these cars & I hate Fords! This car had a stroked 351W, I think it was a 408.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
I raced a 1988 Fox body for 3 years for a car owner on a 28x10.5 tire. The car was absolutely deadly & one of the best cars if not the best I ever raced.

I will say this, we ran the car with a single battery, alternator & the proper bolt on suspension with tuning. The 1st year out with this new car. I entered 8 races, won seven of them including a Wally & the other race I took 2nd place.

If you're worried about the weight bias, add ballast to the rear; but run an alternator.

2BKING

Here's some more info.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
HPM megabite jr. upper & lower control arms. Car was 2600 without me/2800 with me if I remember correctly. It ran 6.30s 1/8th mile & 10.0s 1/4 mile.

2BKING

Thanks for all the responses. Looks like I got a learning curve ahead. Going to do a general check and take to TNT then decide next steps. Live in rural area that not amenable to more than 50 MPH.

Those cars can work great.

Problem is, a 460 based engine IS nose-heavy, most guys run SBF in them and because of that, finding info for the 385 series engines swapped into a fox body, is a little harder

coil overs. There are a million different kinds. Show knows what you have. You might have to get under the car and look. There are cheapies, and there is junk, and there is good stuff. I personally don't like rear coil overs in the stock location, since the upper shock mounts aren't designed for holding the car's weight. Just my opinion on that.

Always use a spool. Always on a drag car.

C4 wouldn't be my choice, but if I bought that car I'd run it til the C4 went kaput. Then I'd sell it as a core to someone else and put a powerglide in it. Sorry to the Ford purists, but the C4 has it's place. Not in my car. not anymore. If you need 3 speeds, TH400.

engine. Those engines can make a LOT of steam, but it all depends on what's in/on it. Aluminum heads doesn't mean much on it's own. There are some chincanese heads out there that are about on par with some DOVE heads, but lighter (hard to believe isn't it?).

Rear suspension design in itself is decent, but I would not put solid bushings in the control arms. Hard on the body, the upper mounts especially. Hopefully those are braced/reinforced. If not keep a close eye on them as they tend to crack/break. Have seen cars wrecked because of it. Look at Team Z for control arms and such. OR baseline suspension, both are decent for the money. If nothing else, just to get ideas. Maximum Motorsports as well, and MM's technical section has explanations of a lot of stuff.

Friend had an '86 notchback, 598 with A heads, etc. Did almost 1100hp, broke a lot of parts initially but once the parts breakage issue was resolved it was very reliable-and a fast car for what it was. He was not comfortable in it though, and ended up selling it a number of years ago.

Guy here had a 460+ in a ex pro stock Probe and was bumping on the 3s with it. 4.04 best as I remember. Car is out west somewhere now. Has a 85 notch running 5.70s with a 4.60....Not my piece of cake but pay attention to these added purse races, those Mustangs get it done.