quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
You won't see a radial on a dragster because a bias tire ability for traction, is its high energy losses which makes it try to form itself to the track surface when deformed. It's high energy losses makes for its higher rolling resistance for same reason, it's deformed more frequently at high or low frequency's.

The radial drag tire came about as a result of rubber technology for traction at low energy losses. So in other words it'll hook if you don't deform it or wind it up on the rim too much. The trick is to get the radial up on the tire. I do the suspension and shocks on a heads up 275 radial car for a no wheely bar class it runs in. We went one teen sixty foot in a handful of runs using a lower rear gear ratio than was thought possible and had the nitrous progressor to 100% four tenths after TB release. Which was also thought to be impossible at the time. This thing skipped the front tires 150 ft with the back of the car jacked up like a four wheel drive.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
You won't see a radial on a dragster because a bias tire ability for traction, is its high energy losses which makes it try to form itself to the track surface when deformed. It's high energy losses makes for its higher rolling resistance for same reason, it's deformed more frequently at high or low frequency's.

The radial drag tire came about as a result of rubber technology for traction at low energy losses. So in other words it'll hook if you don't deform it or wind it up on the rim too much. The trick is to get the radial up on the tire. I do the suspension and shocks on a heads up 275 radial car for a no wheely bar class it runs in. We went one teen sixty foot in a handful of runs using a lower rear gear ratio than was thought possible and had the nitrous progressor to 100% four tenths after TB release. Which was also thought to be impossible at the time. This thing skipped the front tires 150 ft with the back of the car jacked up like a four wheel drive.

What’s the trick for not murdering the tire at the hit, but continuing to get rear separation down track?

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Originally posted by Quick Dawg:

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dawg, you think 2100 lbs is a heavier bracket car?

Curtis - It is for and Altered.... Still no answers as to why you don't see radial tires on Altered's or slower pipe racks. Anyone know why?

quote:

Originally posted by DOTracer:
With a radial, it needs to get hit harder than a bias tire. If you don't hit it hard enough, it will spin. Short/high instant center, high quality double adjustable shocks with firm compression, loose/medium rebound. You plant the tire, shock extends a little initially, then you control the separation rate over the next couple feet as the car begins to accelerate.

Most radial cars employ some sort of power management. Launch retard on the MSD Grid is very common to control power. Keep in mind most radial cars make a ton more power than bracket cars so they have to use various forms of power management. Most cars make anywhere from 1500-5000 hp.

Heads up cars will also take a bunch of first gear out to help manage power.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by DOTracer:
With a radial, it needs to get hit harder than a bias tire. If you don't hit it hard enough, it will spin. Short/high instant center, high quality double adjustable shocks with firm compression, loose/medium rebound. You plant the tire, shock extends a little initially, then you control the separation rate over the next couple feet as the car begins to accelerate.

Most radial cars employ some sort of power management. Launch retard on the MSD Grid is very common to control power. Keep in mind most radial cars make a ton more power than bracket cars so they have to use various forms of power management. Most cars make anywhere from 1500-5000 hp.

Heads up cars will also take a bunch of first gear out to help manage power.

Very informative of things needed to run radials with. After reading this, I’m sticking with bias tires. Thanks !

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
^^^ I use 32x14 MT bias now (Hoosiers too) with a 1.40 trans gear and 4.40 diff. Stall @ 6100 with 1.49 / 6.30 et.

I want my car to mph 5 -7 more than another dialed the same 6.3x et which it does. It will also mph more or equal to many dialed 0.25 or more faster.

I want my car to leave wheels down (which it does) and on the front limiters (about 1/2” short now). It has 50/50 adj street struts and I believe DA race struts would be better. I’d like it tight against the limiters at launch. Hope to afford this upgrade in the future.

I’m also seriously considering slowing the car to 6.4x, not getting a chassis sticker that I need in April and buying a 3.2A/1 jacket for this year.

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Originally posted by markemark:
The shift to hi gear happens almost 5 seconds after launch.

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Originally posted by markemark:
The shift to hi gear happens almost 5 seconds after launch.

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Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Methanol works great in that environment, consistent.
The converter is slipping 24% at the stripe correct?

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Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Methanol works great in that environment, consistent.
The converter is slipping 24% at the stripe correct?

Perty close guess Mike. It’s 20%. I agree on methanol.

Curtis, I agree with your thinking on 1.58 Planetary. I don't have any heat issues.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
You have a gear to get you going so you aren't working the converter as hard. Mine lays on the converter for a long while.