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14 degree heads
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DRR Trophy
posted
I have a set of 14 degree dart heads. They are the older olds heads. One has a crack in the exhaust port that has been fixed a couple of times but still is leaking water into the cylinder. My question is if I buy a new set of 14 degree heads dart or brodix will all the valve train, springs and valves from the old heads fit.
 
Posts: 109 | Location: Albuquerque | Registered: September 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Alaskaracer
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I don't think so. Darts stuff has changed and Brodix stuff is completely different.

I could be wrong though


Mark Goulette
Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster
www.livinthedreamracing.com
"Speed kills but it's better than going slow!"
Authorized Amsoil Retailer
 
Posts: 1540 | Location: Back home in Alaska! | Registered: February 13, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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If you’re going to the expense of switching heads would it not be better to move to 12 degree or better? You’d probably have to buy pistons too I’d assume.


Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am.......
 
Posts: 5334 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Cash,

I would have to change the pistons.
 
Posts: 109 | Location: Albuquerque | Registered: September 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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Are you sure your existing 14 degree pistons will work with the newer 14 degree heads? If so then I understand, if it turns out no then I would probably spend the extra money on later heads, new rockers and pistons.

I know it’s a big expense. I would love to build a new SR-20 combo but it’s not in the budget right now. Good luck!


Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am.......
 
Posts: 5334 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Cashflow:


I know it’s a big expense. I would love to build a new SR-20 combo but it’s not in the budget right now. Good luck!


I had a 632 12 degree motor and now a Dart Pro 20 632 motor. Ran both in the same car and the Pro 20 motor is just as fast as the 12 degree motor. The 12 degree motor is a good 25 pounds heavier also. Both combo's were apples to apples with regards to the type of build, meaning similar cams, compression etc. I ran the same converter and carb on both motors also! From the Brodix heads I have seen, older ones, their ports are a bit small for this CID.

If you ever build one and use Dart heads, do not use TI valves with their so called copper impregnated iron seats, its a failure! And Dart should have known better! Upgrade to copper alloy seats.

Also the SR20/Pro20 heads have a much better rocker arm geometry than he spread port heads, no Z type rockers!
 
Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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TOP38, but the 12* work much better than the SR20's on Alky / 601 / 632 right? I like the Alky and want to keep it.
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Windsor locks Ct. | Registered: November 25, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Richie:
TOP38, but the 12* work much better than the SR20's on Alky / 601 / 632 right? I like the Alky and want to keep it.


Never ran alky on either. At this point I feel other than the cooling benefit, the consistency of gas is just as good!

Once you get any combo making over 1.8 plus HP/CID, running alky gets tricky, just so much fuel to make room for it and keep atomized! Injection is the only way 'd even consider it.
 
Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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