Does anyone monitor and try to regulate their transmission temperature to improve their consistency?

I have wondered about trans temp vs consistency for some time, and installed a trans temp gauge with the sensor in the pan a few years ago.

On most days my transmission temperature does not get above 125 degrees, and will occasionally get up to 150 degrees with back-to-back passes on a warm day.

My transmission cooler is an 11" x 11" x 3/4" stacked-plate unit mounted in front of the radiator, between the radiator and a front-mounted 'pusher' fan. I control the electric fans manually and individually.

I'm in the process now of actually moving the transmission cooler to a point behind the radiator, to catch the 160-degree air from the radiator to warm up the tranny fluid faster.

I did search other threads here for answers beforehand; a couple racers recommend synthetic transmission fluid for greater consistency. I have been using ordinary parts-store fluid.

A few racers where I race remark that I seem to be consistent, but I don't know about that.....

Remarks?
Thx!
Troy

I went to a radiator with the cooler built in like a factory unit would be. It helps to keep trans temps close to engine temps. I got the idea from Ed.
I also have a cooler with fan at the back of the car in case I'm hot lapping.

^^^factory OEM replacement with internal trans cooler.


Monitor yes, regulate no. Trans temp on both my cars, door car and dragster is a non issue and remains constant and low. I also run Castrol's Transynd synthetic fluid.

My dragster also has a Jones Trans Pump

http://jonestransmissionpumps.com/

that we don't use because we don't have a trans temp issue but we would use it if we were to double enter a big $ race.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

I use both cooler types, ("factory" style in radiator, and a large external unit). I almost always run multiple classes, and summertime hot-lapping at 100* temps would get the fluid really hot.
Keep in mind, the integrated trans cooler is on the "cool" end of the radiator, (at least on GM vehicles), so your coolant may not add much temp to the trans fluid. Especially if you run alcohol. I struggle to maintain any heat in the engine, so I guess I am trying to do the opposite as the OP, use the trans fluid to add some heat to the coolant just before it enters the engine.

My cooler consist of a piece of flex line 18” long looped between fittings on trans and never had an issue. I don’t monitor it but plan on it this year just to see what happens. I do have a cooler for it with a fan but got to get a mount made for it which is in my plans the next couple of weeks.

We only care that its warm and not hotter than the engine oil.

quote:

Originally posted by Roger McGinnis:
We only care that its warm and not hotter than the engine oil.

That's roughly my approach, although I don't really care that it is warm either. I figure driving to the lanes and doing a burnout gets the driveline as warm as it needs to be.

If it's nearing 200*, I'll put a fan or some water on it.

Troy, I don't monitor trans temp, never have. Do what works for you. I double class/double enter, going 7.teens-twenties in the 1/8th, car is spot on. I keep an eye on the 60', and the car runs as expected.

Side note, I use Dex/Merc from the parts store as well. Rossler's notes on trans fluid:
http://www.rosslertrans.com/tech.html

I run a Moroso cooler like this and monitor the transmission temperatures with my logger. It never gets hot or has any issues with consistency so I really do not worry about it any more. When I bought my last radiator I ordered it with the in tank transmission cooler with the intention of running it through radiator after the cooler to help keep the temps more consistent but it just is not needed on my car. I do think the inside radiator trans cooler is a good idea though as it could help keep engine and trans temps closer to each other.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moros...a:g:lPsAAOSw7z1aAehC

ChuckT,

Thanks for posting the link to the Rossler tech articles. One thing I do not understand is he says don't use a "weathertight" connector on the trans brake solenoid. This I do not understand. I have been using them for years and have never had a single problem that I know of.

I use 14 gauge wire to the connector so I guess I'm curious as to his recommendation.

Can anyone explain this one to me?

Whoops !

Looks like I will be changing out the weather tight connector to the trans brake solenoid in my car today.

Bob

Bob, I wouldn't worry about it, most chassis builders/racers use a weatherpack connector at the transbrake solenoid without issue including Undercover/me.

I have no doubt that they do Ed, but to be safe I followed Rossler’s advice. I can't understand why it would make any difference but I still changed the connector, can’t hurt.

Bob

I have a small cooler mounted under the floor beside the transmission. Not monitored. I was thinking about installing a small fan on the cooler but never got around to it. Never had any issues and I run synthetic oil.

If you do want to monitor the trans temp, install a sensor in the pan.

quote:

Originally posted by RPROGAS:
Whoops !

Looks like I will be changing out the weather tight connector to the trans brake solenoid in my car today.

Bob

I to have the weather tight connector and wonder why they say not to use it?

The Rossler web site is very imphatic about not using weather tight connectors in this application. Like you Curly, I can’t understand why they don’t want you to use them but they certainly know more than me.

This is a critical connection, so I changed them (I have a two wire solenoid) to conventional crimped connectors.

Bob

Back to the original question.

I have a double throw, double pole switch connected to a Autometer electric temperature gauge. One wire goes to the transmission electric sender in the pan, one wire goes to the electric sender in the engine oil pan. When I toggle the switch back and forth I can read both temperatures. For whatever it’s worth, I also use synthetic transmission fluid and never have an overheating problem.

The first run of the day my car is always .02 slower, after that it is very consistent (driver isn’t but the car is).

Bob

As far as weatherpack connections go, they are only ment to be connected/disconnected a limited number of times. Reason I read was that over time and multiple connections the mail pin in the connector will become compressed and the female will spread creating a loose connection.

Everyone of my electrical components has a weatherpack connector...waterpump, fuel pump, air compressor and throttle stop which is plugged/unplugged constently. No fears.

How many engage/disengage cycles are Delphi connections good for?

In general, Delphi components are validated to perform to specification after 10 engage/disengage cycles. Some components may have a slightly higher number of cycles specified in their individual design specifications. We need to know which component family, or families, the customer is referring to in order to be more specific. However, in actuality you probably wouldn't see any degradation of the electrical interface of Delphi connection system components until beyond about 50 engage/disengage cycles (barring any physical damage). Some newer product families may have even higher engage/disengage cycle durability; these may primarily be designed specifically for the Commercial Vehicle market.

http://www.powerandsignal.com/.../TechnicalFAQ#engage