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DRR S/Pro |
Who out there does camshaft straightening? I broke a rod, some piece got wedged and bent the cam slightly, I plan on checking with Oregon cam grinding, but wondering who else? This is a 60mm cam core from comp, it was over $900 when it was new, so I'm sure it's more now, so spending money to fix it is Actually worth it .991 60' 4.36 @ 159 so far..... 6.86 @ 198 trying for more...... 533" single carb 235" Harrison 4-link | ||
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DRR Top Comp |
There's a LSM 60mm BBC cam for sale on DRR classified FB. Inexpensively priced, I thought $400 | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Just had bullet straighten one recently. Although I was less than 0.010” total runout. They told me they’ve done some as bad as 0.030-0.040” | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
Jones cams In Denver NC does it. Now that said he told me one of the last ones I sent in could not be straightened enough for regrind. I do not know how much it was out. I could still put in the block, But it took cpl taps with dead blow and had a pretty good bind when rotating. I would check it and call who ever you choose and see if they think they can fix it. Right now it is about only way to get a cam is with regrind or luck in someone having cores to grind. America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
This one has about .020 or so run-out. It turned easy and came out fairly easy. I'm thinking it should be fixable, maybe. I start calling around monday .991 60' 4.36 @ 159 so far..... 6.86 @ 198 trying for more...... 533" single carb 235" Harrison 4-link | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Call Rod @ ISKY. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Check your local machine shop it’s not difficult to do. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Another vote for Bullet... "I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know." Marcus Tullius Cicero | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Not sure i'd straighten anything rotating (crank or cam) that's been "bent" for a race application. Once you move steel beyond its elastic limit (the point at which it will not return to its original shape) it changes the material properties in the area of the bend. Think of bending a coat hangar beyond where it returns back to its original shape. Steel work hardens in the bend area making it less ductile and it won't elastically deform in that area like it originally would. That's concerning. Best case here would be to straighten and then re-heat treat but i've not heard anything about a heat treat being involved in the straightening of cranks or cams. IMO 900 bucks is cheap compared to a broken cam sometime down the road due to fatigue in the bend area. If there's enough over design in the cam diameter then this could be a non issue, but for sure if its bent, its not going to be as strong/ductile in the area of the original bend. Just my $0.02 | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Straightening shafts, cams, cranks, etc isn’t rocket science. I’ve had success with both small rotating components and several turbine rotors weighing 10 tons or more. It’s done with controlled torch heating in conjunction with the peening with a rounded punch like anvil. It does need to be in V blocks with dial indicators in multiple locations. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
I almost forgot. It requires stress relieving after straightening, preferably in the vertical position | |||
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DRR Elite |
Had one that was not bent bad but the broken rod stopped it solidly enough that it sheared the key in the Jesel belt drive. Had it straightened then wondered about timing! There was 5 degrees difference between 1 and 6 on a big block Mopar. TAKE IT TO THE BANK!!!!! Later, Bill Koski | |||
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