quote:

Originally posted by SP 124X:
I've used the Cole hersee solenoids on the past few cars Ive wired. I use two of them. One to kill the starter/alternator power and the other kills the rest of the power. In all honesty I'd prefer a solid state battery disconnect but the cost is a killer.

Why not use the double pole 75912?

https://www.amazon.com/Cole-He...onnect/dp/B0035R1WWK

The 75912 is a switch and not a solenoid. I have been looking at the solid state ones too, those things are crazy expensive. I could only find a 200 amp rated solenoid on the Cole Hersee website, I would think you would a higher continuous rating than that in case you get into a situation that requires longer cranking times.

quote:

Originally posted by SP 124X:
I've used the Cole hersee solenoids on the past few cars Ive wired. I use two of them. One to kill the starter/alternator power and the other kills the rest of the power. In all honesty I'd prefer a solid state battery disconnect but the cost is a killer.

I'm using a Bosch 75amp continuous rated DPST relay that our company has special made for us to cut my alternator. It looks like this one.

https://www.texasindustrialele...elays_0332002168.asp

quote:

Originally posted by 183N:

quote:

Originally posted by SP 124X:
I've used the Cole hersee solenoids on the past few cars Ive wired. I use two of them. One to kill the starter/alternator power and the other kills the rest of the power. In all honesty I'd prefer a solid state battery disconnect but the cost is a killer.

Why not use the double pole 75912?

https://www.amazon.com/Cole-He...onnect/dp/B0035R1WWK

I use that it cars that already have cable controlled dual shutoffs

Has anyone been using these and how well has it worked?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

Or this.
https://speedwiresystems.com/l...emote-relay-shut-off

The Cole-Hersee 24213 that many of us had been using is really not heavy duty enough for our needs.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

The Cole-Hersee 24213 that many of us had been using is really not heavy duty enough for our needs.

How many amps are you pulling though one???

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I have changed my mind on this and have just wired up the stuff to do it electrically. It will have E-Stop buttons front and rear and a 200amp continuous, 400amp peak inrush solenoid. I should have it powered up this weekend.

Will this handle 16 volt or would you have to use the 24 volt version?
I'm not an electrical engineer..lol

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I have changed my mind on this and have just wired up the stuff to do it electrically. It will have E-Stop buttons front and rear and a 200amp continuous, 400amp peak inrush solenoid. I should have it powered up this weekend.

Will this handle 16 volt or would you have to use the 24 volt version?
I'm not an electrical engineer..lol

Dave

Dave, I don't know on that. I am still 12v so it isn't an something I had considered or looked into.

Some just like to make it more difficult and/or more expensive than it needs to be.

Just replaced this after 19 years in service without failure energizing both 12 and 16 volts





combine it with this





https://www.summitracing.com/p...TEAQYBCABEgK1YfD_BwE

and that's all you need with a door car

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Some just like to make it more difficult and/or more expensive than it needs to be.

No more expensive or difficult than buying all the stuff to run a cable inside and using a good brand name double pole switch in the rear with a handle of some sort out back.

Plus I do it all myself so there is no labor expense for me. Just because it isn't the way you want it done isn't a reason to not do it. LOL

do with your $ and shyt box whatever you want, no one cares!

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
do with your $ and shyt box whatever you want, no one cares!

Okay

Ed, where did you get the arm that clamps/bolts to the switch ? It does not look like the factory arm that comes with the switch.

Which arm, the short arm?

Yes, the arm that is connected to the shaft of the switch itself.

that arm was installed by MPR, I'll see if I can find out where he got it.

https://www.lokar.com/assets/i...onnect-Lever-Kit.pdf

Something I purchased

quote:

Originally posted by racerdude2054:
https://www.lokar.com/assets/i...onnect-Lever-Kit.pdf

Something I purchased

This is what I ran in my older Altered, same one little Alter Boy Ed used. Worked okay but then on my Front Engine Dragster I built I moved into modern ages and went to an electric solenoid with switch inside the car on my dash. Did not really have room or a good mounting place for the lever inside that car so that was a good time to make the improvements.

On my latest Altered I have mechanical shut off in back and electric solenoid with switch on dash. I leave mechanical one on all day at track and emergency crews can kill power from back and I can kill it from inside with flip of a switch.

Man don't start the name calling. It does nothing but screw up a thread.

Jerry Bickel has one

https://www.jerrybickel.com/ba...-kit-lok1330013.html