quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
I did call them today and got some things to check and try. Thanks.

Just buy a new solenoid from Biondo. It's not very much money and not worth the aggravation or lost races because you didnt by trying to save a nickle.

I do want to buy a new one but if that model and brand has problems I do not want a NEW problem.
That is why I posted this thread asking if anyone has been having problems with them? I never had any problems with my Quarter Pro shifters.

I would buy biondo.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
I did call them today and got some things to check and try. Thanks.

Just buy a new solenoid from Biondo. It's not very much money and not worth the aggravation or lost races because you didnt by trying to save a nickle.

I do want to buy a new one but if that model and brand has problems I do not want a NEW problem.
That is why I posted this thread asking if anyone has been having problems with them? I never had any problems with my Quarter Pro shifters.

You have had a few different racers post on this thread that they have had issues with the Shiftnoid solenoid. That should answer your question. Order a Biondo

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:


Anyone have that problem with the Shiftnoid solenoids?

Is there any better shift solenoid than the Shifnoid?

Sound like just a bad or worn out solenoid?

Thanks in advance.

That is why I asked in very first post if others have had problems with them.

Of course I will check all grounds before I do to make sure it is not just bad ground due to powder coating or something like that.

I have the same one that you linked to in my Nova. It has supposedly missed twice in over 10 years, but I wasn’t driving either time and I’ve made 98%+ of the car’s passes in that time without a failure.

I believe I did add a ground wire to one of the button head screws on the front of the solenoid just for some insurance.

I have a Biondo in my dragster and I have replaced that after it cost me a race a few years back.

I had the same one and also went to a biondo

A few things. What size wire did you run from the KR board to the power side of solenoid, and where is your ground wire hooked to at solenoid?


I’m not saying that solenoids the best but a lot of them being used with minimal issue.

quote:

Originally posted by Hammertime:
A few things. What size wire did you run from the KR board to the power side of solenoid, and where is your ground wire hooked to at solenoid?


I’m not saying that solenoids the best but a lot of them being used with minimal issue.

I think the wire is 8 gauge and it is on the electric shift terminal as per Kevin at K&R. He said it has two 30 amp relays? to feed that high demand circuit. (Note it did same thing with old wire and relay)
Ground is through the shifter but I also tried a wire directly to the shifter and to ground to test it with no difference.
Car went to the Chassis shop and will be there for a few weeks after that will probably buy a new Biondo and will check put and make grounds better. Also motor is almost ready so I have bunch of other things to do right now. Will get back to the shifter after chassis guy gets done.

My B&M used to shift kinda slow/no thud when it hit..One day I had the charger on the battery and pushed the button for some reason and it slammed the shifter..so putting 9 + 3 together I put an alternator on the car..started better, lights on the return road were brighter, the battery needed less charge time ....AND the shifter made no difference....So I ran a -8 wire from the battery all the way to the solenoid and -8 ground wire to the solenoid and used ground to complete the circuit when the solenoid was switched and yaaaaaaaa itshifted great that way..

Just my 2 cents/experience on the subject
..your results may vary..

I have always ran an alternator but this motor is a dry sump so right now I have to mount the dry sump pump and plumb it then if I have room will add an alternator.

This chassis does not have much room for dry sump pump and plumbing so that is most important.

Even with battery on the charger the shifter solenoid was soft and not shifting.

If you have a Megger you could check the solenoid for broken insulation… otherwise what does it meter?

bruce does your meter show a drop on soft hits,amp draw ect.some of the k r boards had a built in voltage issue that could be in play.maybe bypass board and try it.

I have that set up in my car. 8-9 years ago it was doing as you describe and I also went through all of the checks and BS. Put on a new Shifnoid solenoid and it has performed flawlessly ever since. It seems to work for me.

Solenoids are used a lot on various diesel machines I work on...

Used to turn the fuel on and off for starting and stopping and for going back to an idle position...

Many are 3 wire units and have a pull in circuit and a hold circuit...

The pull in draws a lot of amps and is momentary......Once the solenoid gets where it needs to go, the hold coil section is energized all the time at a much lower current draw...

On thing I run into many times is the solenoid is to far back when the machine is off.....It cannot energize forward and the circuit opens.....

On older machines it blew fuses and on newer it trips an auto reset thermal breaker....

You might try making sure the solenoid is as far forward as it can go without interfering with the shifter....

Other than the solenoid on a Dedenbaer plate stop, I've never used them......I use air for shifting and always have....Very minimal current draw on the air control solenoids.

Nothing wrong with them as long as they are working and not causing issues...

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
I have always ran an alternator but this motor is a dry sump so right now I have to mount the dry sump pump and plumb it then if I have room will add an alternator.

This chassis does not have much room for dry sump pump and plumbing so that is most important.

Even with battery on the charger the shifter solenoid was soft and not shifting.

Use a set of jumper cables to directly trigger the solenoid, if it hits hard you know it's the voltage delivery system you have that needs to be addressed..if there's no improvement its the solenoid...unless you expecting to much lol

quote:

Originally posted by imakehp:
My B&M used to shift kinda slow/no thud when it hit..One day I had the charger on the battery and pushed the button for some reason and it slammed the shifter..so putting 9 + 3 together I put an alternator on the car..started better, lights on the return road were brighter, the battery needed less charge time ....AND the shifter made no difference....So I ran a -8 wire from the battery all the way to the solenoid and -8 ground wire to the solenoid and used ground to complete the circuit when the solenoid was switched and yaaaaaaaa itshifted great that way..

Just my 2 cents/experience on the subject
..your results may vary..

No longer use one and haven't for a while, but the wire gauge was defiantly a problem when we did. Started with a std 12 gauge wire and it would periodically blow fuses. Changed it to a high quality 10 gauge and problem fixed. Its that momentary high amperage hit that causes the problem.

I'm surprised nobody knows which electric shifter to use. It's the original all others are copy's.

I bought one of the first they ever sold, bolted it under the shifter & haven't looked at it since, close to 30 years. When I bought it I was told it was mickey mouse, would never work, I needed a air shifter.

If you wanna know who makes the original electric shifter all others copy, look in any car from Florida that has won the million. And there's a boat load of em which have. You won't have to look far or wide.

Everything else is a copy, and junk in comparison.

Update, I did buy the Biondo for the new car and it appears to be working quite well. Of course I have not got it out to the track yet but I think the issue is resolved.

Thank you,

bless your heart, of course you did.