Can it be done competitively dial'd 6.36 to 6.43 sbc or would it be a waste of energy and resources?

I'm tired of my 10" tire scrubbing on the inner fender wells and sub frame. Don't wanna cut up my 69 Nova SS.

You are asking the wrong people. Only way to find out is to put some on your car and head to track and see how well it works. One person may be able to did and the next not depending on car is set up.

quote:

Originally posted by green1:
You are asking the wrong people. Only way to find out is to put some on your car and head to track and see how well it works. One person may be able to did and the next not depending on car is set up.

I agree, figured I'd run the idea by others to see their take on it. The tracks are smooth as glass and well prepped here in Florida, I think it'll be fine and won't have to deal with tire rubbing every time the steering wheel is turned.

There are a lot of people who want to run fast on a small tire just to say they can do it. Biggest problem with a small tire is track prep. If it isn't there, you're not going to be competitive to a big tire car which can power down a slippery track easier.

I used to go out to the Friday night street legal races just to get some track time. Prep was marginal at best. While the street tire cars were spinning off the line, I was still able to make quick passes. If traction wasn't there for me, I just packed up and called it a night.

Gonna put this in high gear 3 tenths or so after trans brake release to hopefully slow it down to 6.36 to 6.43, so definitely not trying to go fast. I made a handful of high gear only runs like this around 113 mph while also pulling 14 degree's timing at the shift, so I think running in the high 6.30's to low 40's at 114 - 115 mph not pulling timing, might give a different look. The tracks in Florida are primo prepped.

With a 8.5 slick I can also set the ride height low to the ground. I think it'll work fine 6.40 ish 114 - 115 mph, high gear only.

My son has a 64 Nova that runs 4.8s @ 150+ on
8.5x26 tires. This is at 3200lbs. I think at your
power level, you can make it work. It might take
some power management, you can do it.

If you do not already own, consider putting a high gear leave valve body in your trans. Although this is popular in dragsters, I think a door car could also benefit from this using a glide.

Leaving in High gear vs shifting to High at 0.30 after transbrake release I believe would be slightly more consistent in 60ft and ET. You might need to increase the launch rpm slightly to get the RT to be more consistent with high gear leave.

The reduced ET with much greater mph changes the appearance of the race from the start to finish. You will run cars dialed 0.25 faster than you that will be well ahead of you before the 60’ cone. The appearance is that you had a bad RT. You now are chasing with over 5 mph more than them at finish.

My 6.35 dial runs 112- 113 mph in a th400 that no longer uses 1st gear on the racing surface.

If you have MSD Grid, much can be done.

I've got friends that run pbrs and also the new hoosier radial at that et and faster. They have no problem what so ever and cars are deadly consistent.

Thanks for the input guys.

Markmark, I raced once with the Grid. I was pulling 14 degrees timing at the shift 3 tenths after trans brake release. I was shocked at the options it allows and the ease of operation. The car was deadly within a couple thousandths of second in the few day time runs until the sun went down and humidity came in, I presume it picked up a bunch because of bigger fuel droplets vapor as a result of the humidity. Making more heat in the chamber, in comparison to the day time runs. I'd imagine if I don't pull the timing it'll be deadly in all conditions. I pulled the timing to get as close as I could to 6.50 for the 370 pro tree 6.50 index race I was entered.

So yes I agree with you, options numerous.

Why limit yourself with 8.5 tire selection size. I would think a 9" wide tire would give better selection in diameters/roll out & not rub. You going to run a radial or bias tire?

I have seen a car go 3.6 in the 1/8th about 210 mph. He did it on a 275/60 radial. Davis Traction Control works

I've been running 9" Hoosier radials forever on my '70 Nova. I can't imagine it working any better than it does now, with any size tire. I run right around 6.40 with a 1.42 60'.

Look at the stockers running 9 inch tires-dragging the bumper sometimes.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
Why limit yourself with 8.5 tire selection size. I would think a 9" wide tire would give better selection in diameters/roll out & not rub. You going to run a radial or bias tire?

That's a good idea. A buddy of mine keeps saying how good the tire development is on the M/T 8.5, because of the 8.5 tire heads up class mentioned earlier in this thread. I'm looking at this M/T 3056ST 9" slick. I need to find out if the ST in the part# indicates stiff sidewall i'll need on that tire.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
I'm looking at this M/T 3056ST 9" slick. I need to find out if the ST in the part# indicates stiff sidewall i'll need on that tire.

ST = Suggested for manual transmissions (medium compound)
* = STIFF SIDEWALL

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
So yes I agree with you, options numerous.

Here’s another Grid programming method I use when manipulating timing on the starting line and during the run for desired ET.

In this programming when the engine is above 3100 rpm while on the 2 step, the engine timing is reduced from start to finish returning the timing to Maximum (actual set timing no retards) when off the racing surface.

Several reasons I use this is one, when I pre-stage and especially staging in 2nd gear I want the car pulling me in without adding throttle rpm manually. Two, when I check the timing at idle, I know that no retards are running and what I see is not being manipulated by Grid.

I’ve experienced racers timing their cars with retards running and not properly setting the actual Maximum timing. Grid does what you program it to do. Setting Maximum timing reference correctly is very important with Grid.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
I'm looking at this M/T 3056ST 9" slick. I need to find out if the ST in the part# indicates stiff sidewall i'll need on that tire.

ST = Suggested for manual transmissions (medium compound)
* = STIFF SIDEWALL

Yeah, those tires definitely won't work then, unstable down track.

quote:

Originally posted by Footloose:
I have seen a car go 3.6 in the 1/8th about 210 mph. He did it on a 275/60 radial. Davis Traction Control works

I've seen cars like that too in the XDR class. Many of them might get 10 passes on a set of tires before they need to replace them. Sidewalls don't survive.

Neal Church was running high gear only around here 25 years ago and I have ran 2nd and high in a turbo 400 for more than 15 years. And many around here using 9in Hoosier Radials on cars going that speed. I switch it up, sometimes all 3 gears, sometimes only 2 and subject to deep stage in either.Will surprise someone that spots you 25 that passes you before the 60 thinks its all over and about the time he starts ripping it there you are and he is behind.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
I've been running 9" Hoosier radials forever on my '70 Nova. I can't imagine it working any better than it does now, with any size tire. I run right around 6.40 with a 1.42 60'.

Ditto, except 30x10.5 Hoosier radial. Same ET.