I am having some problems with my car hooking with my new motor. It has ladder bars & coilovers & i run a 29x10.5 slick.
Someone said the coilover springs were to stiff.
Car weighs @3000 with me and has 110 springs.
95 seems awful light, has anyone heard of of a car @3000 using that light of a spring?

quote:

Originally posted by bama:
I am having some problems with my car hooking with my new motor. It has ladder bars & coilovers & i run a 29x10.5 slick.
Someone said the coilover springs were to stiff.
Car weighs @3000 with me and has 110 springs.
95 seems awful light, has anyone heard of of a car @3000 using that light of a spring?

The weight of the car is really not what you look at for springs, what the weight on the rear axle? The next question is where are the rear shocks mounted relative to the centerline of the ear end, in front or in back. Most are in back.

As a guess for this type of door car without any more info I would say it's heavier on the front than rear so 95 could be a good choice but if you have 110's then likely that's not the real issue. It's more likely the front springs could be too stiff which would not help front end travel that the car needs to transfer the weight on to the rear tires. You would also be surprised what an 80 lbs weight bar properly place in the rear of the car would do also.

More info really needed to help.

Unless they're bad.

The best springs you can buy are PAC if you can find them, now discontinued. Or Eibach, then Hypercoil. All springs are definitely not created equal.

https://www.cachassisworks.com/cac_tech_articles.html
Good tech info here and a guide on choosing spring weight. My car is 3,000lbs and I've got 110 springs on the back with ladder bars 10.5W tires.

EMAN
Just curious what shocks do you run?

A couple of things to consider. With a small tire like that on a fairly heavy car sidewalls will go away quicker causing problems. I have a friend that runs a small tire and I think (IIRC)he changes rear tires every 50 runs or so now because reaction times and 60 times start going away. Car works really well after that.

Also a ladder bar car can work very good but it does work the shocks (and tires)really hard and the shocks must be able to control it. If shocks do not have enough extension dampening they top out and unload the tire.

I would get a good video from the sunny side so you can see what the rear tire is doing and how much body separation you have. Watch the rim and see how close it gets to ground when it wraps up. Watch body to see if it is topping out.

Also may put car on jack stands and work the rear suspension through out the range and see what it is doing. Look for any binding. See how much of the rear shocks are used in sitting position. With ladder bars you want probably 2/3 to 3/4 of the shock compressed when sitting as most of shock travel will be extension on ladder bars.

You might even try to put a Go Pro on the rear suspension to see what it is doing. Once again you are looking to see how much of the shock is used up at the hit and verify it is not topping out.

If that is all good go back to your video and look at front suspension.

Rear shocks need to be good quality. Set them a lot harder than you think they need to be then increase them a couple more clicks harder.

Try a 29.5x10.5x15 mickey thompson PBR then make your decision about springs and what not. I blistered a new set of bias hoosiers the same size, swapped back to the pbr's, right back to where it should have been.

quote:

Originally posted by bama:
EMAN
Just curious what shocks do you run?

Double adjustable Afco I think they are #3870. I've run PBR's, I'll stick to bias have Hoosiers on it now.