540 vortech supercharger...TD..40 passes but motor refreshed...this is a new car for me, only second time it's been fired since owning.
Just had carb and fuel system gone thru
Car fires right...idle set about 1600 rpm in park
When put in gear, engine immediately loses 900 rpm and struggles to stay lit.
Timing is 30 deg idles...not moving
Fuel pressure 5psi idle
Car goes forward and reverse but when brake applied it wants to quit.
Any thoughts or similar experiences?
Converter?
Thanks for any input

Put a TSI spragless converter in it.

Sprag broke

Friend of mine said the same thing. Just trying to get a consensus before pulling it out. Appreciate your help!

quote:

Originally posted by highstrung:
Friend of mine said the same thing. Just trying to get a consensus before pulling it out. Appreciate your help!

Yes Sir, no sweat... Pull it.

As a suggestion before pulling convertor, bump timing to 35/36...may have to close throttle blades slightly, maybe add some idle fuel with idle mixture screws. Make sure throttle blades are open an equal amount primary and secondary before you make any changes suggested above..If Carb/ engine ran well on the previous 40 passes then maybe convertor is bad. Curious as to why you just had Carb and Fuels system "gone thru"

Why do you assume it has a sprag converter in it? I doubt it does

Riches the idle up and see what happens…

Seabass…KNOWS!

Sounds lean to me. One quick simple test. Get the idle down to about 1200-1300 in park. Take your finger and cover each idle air bleed one at a time. Should be a change in idle. You will notice it right away. Idle mixture screws should be average 1.5-2.0 out... Pending.... I have seen in the past also wrong block gaskets or improperly manufactured gaskets.

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
Sounds lean to me. One quick simple test. Get the idle down to about 1200-1300 in park. Take your finger and cover each idle air bleed one at a time. Should be a change in idle. You will notice it right away. Idle mixture screws should be average 1.5-2.0 out... Pending.... I have seen in the past also wrong block gaskets or improperly manufactured gaskets.

Wouldn’t it have a hat on the carb?

quote:

Originally posted by highstrung:
Friend of mine said the same thing.

A friend experienced enough to spot a sprag failure, is light years beyond experienced enough to turn the mixture screws.

They've already turned the mixture screws every which way to Sunday. That's why the OP mentioned the carb was just *gone thru*.

There's a bunch of sprag converters out there still, banjo and I just bought one which turned out destroyed by a broken sprag, when TSI cut it open to make it spragless.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

Yes it would. That is a basic 4 corner idle check
with the carb alone. Nothing on top.

Also see guys too many times where as the upper idle/Int/HS get plugged. Common. Take Carb cleaner with the tip and blow out the jet while it is still installed blowing the garbage deeper into the circuit.>>> Pull the jet out and clean it.

Since i Have CSS. I bring my Magnifying Glass. lol

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,

quote:

Originally posted by S/S Dart:
As a suggestion before pulling convertor, bump timing to 35/36...may have to close throttle blades slightly, maybe add some idle fuel with idle mixture screws. Make sure throttle blades are open an equal amount primary and secondary before you make any changes suggested above..If Carb/ engine ran well on the previous 40 passes then maybe convertor is bad. Curious as to why you just had Carb and Fuels system "gone thru"

The carb was not stored properly unbenounced to me before I purchased the car. After starting for the first time and finding a bowl leak, took carb off and found it looked like a crack house. That's why I went thru the fuel system.

quote:

Originally posted by seabass:
Why do you assume it has a sprag converter in it? I doubt it does

Riches the idle up and see what happens…

Well, I can call Abruzzi first and find out if it has a sprag or not. Idle screws are only out 1.25 turns. We did try adjusting screws out...all the way to 2.25 turns. At that point the engine wouldnt start easily. We just didn't see any major changes. Again, engine lost 1k rpm in gear vs park....and idled smooth in park. As it sat in 2020, the car was turning 3.80's... so it worked at one point given the current combo.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: highstrung,

Just curious. Before you reinstalled the rebuild. Did you flush the fuel system? Even with regular gas? . Noticed you stated it was loaded. I had one a while back.it was so bad, i could not get the blocks off the main body. Had to use a small chisel. He never added anything to the fuel for an anti corrosive.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by TD3550:
Sounds lean to me. One quick simple test. Get the idle down to about 1200-1300 in park. Take your finger and cover each idle air bleed one at a time. Should be a change in idle. You will notice it right away. Idle mixture screws should be average 1.5-2.0 out... Pending.... I have seen in the past


Carb has hat. APD just went thru carb so I'm assuming they did did things right. Idle screws are out 1.25 turns...the same as it was before I took carb in.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: highstrung,

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
Yes it would. That is a basic 4 corner idle check
with the carb alone. Nothing on top.

Also see guys too many times where as the upper idle/Int/HS get plugged. Common. Take Carb cleaner with the tip and blow out the jet while it is still installed blowing the garbage deeper into the circuit.>>> Pull the jet out and clean it.

Since i Have CSS. I bring my Magnifying Glass. lol

So just to re-iterate, I drove to APD, dropped off and picked it up a week later. (One way trip was 5.5 hrs...ugh) I could be wrong but I have faith in APD to do a righteous job on the carb, regulator, and pump. Car had no problem firing up on first wind up after bolting it on.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: highstrung,

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
Just curious. Before you reinstalled the rebuild. Did you flush the fuel system? Even with regular gas? . Noticed you stated it was loaded. I had one a while back.it was so bad, i could not get the blocks off the main body. Had to use a small chisel. He never added anything to the fuel for an anti corrosive.

Visual of tank looked good. I did check filter, and it looked clear. But I will check again.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
Sounds lean to me. One quick simple test. Get the idle down to about 1200-1300 in park. Take your finger and cover each idle air bleed one at a time. Should be a change in idle. You will notice it right away. Idle mixture screws should be average 1.5-2.0 out... Pending.... I have seen in the past also wrong block gaskets or improperly manufactured gaskets.

Wouldn’t it have a hat on the carb?

It does...

Btw...I do appreciate all the replies. The friend that replied to me initially said, "it's either your program, or the sprag". Ive checked the program. I'm thinking the issue is somewhere behind the motor...converter or trans bc it's being lugged down so hard. Full disclosure, Car has sat for a full 12mos without running, and car was not run after motor was refreshed.

I would call APD and see what they suggest. My guess is they could give you an easy way to figure out if it's carb issue or not.