The other night I was out in the shop using a power saw, and had several other electrical loads on the same branch circuit, including a couple of space heaters. Circuit breaker popped, and it left me standing in the center of the shop in total darkness. (I bought a 100 Ft roll of 12 Gauge Romex a while back, to separate the power outlets from the lighting circuit. Obviously I should have completed that job sooner). I honestly have not found myself in complete blackout darkness in a very long time. Fortunately I was only about 20 feet from the walkout door, (which I could not see, but I knew it was straight to my left, and thankfully there were no obstacles between it and myself). Aside from making a mental note that it may be a good idea to keep a cellphone or a penlight in my pocket while working out there at night, I decided I need to install some emergency lighting, in case a power outage or other issue were to occur.
Most hotels and large businesses, stores, etc. have battery-powered emergency lights that are constantly charging from being hardwired to the AC power, and they only turn on when the power source drops out. When I was shipboard in the Navy, we called them battle lanterns. Any of you guys have something like this in your garage, shop or home? Looking for recommendations, as this is one of those things that you just hope will work if and when it is supposed to. Thanks in advance for advice.This message has been edited. Last edited by: FootbrakeJim,
Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!!
https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.
Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.
4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
Posts: 4246 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011
When wiring these up make sure to use the shops general lighting circuit.
I did a locker room remodel at a USPS facility and questioned the no it all guy in charge why he wanted to tie them into the receptible circuit for the area. He told me to do what was on the print. Well OK then. About two months later we got a T&M extra to go back and change them over to the lighting circuit after a maintenance man tripped the lighting circuit and there were no lights in the locker rooms.
Posts: 108 | Location: upstate NY | Registered: January 15, 2018
The “no it all guy” was right, he/you get paid to build it per the design and or approved drawings. You got a T&M ticket and he/the GC or CM got a change order.[FLASH_VIDEO] [/FLASH_VIDEO]
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000
Originally posted by 1320racer: The “no it all guy” was right, he/you get paid to build it per the design and or approved drawings. You got a T&M ticket and he/the GC or CM got a change order.[FLASH_VIDEO] [/FLASH_VIDEO]
Yea Ed after 30+ years I was just trying to head off a future problem but nobody at the job meeting figured that one out. They thought the EM lights were only needed if the whole facility lost power.
Posts: 108 | Location: upstate NY | Registered: January 15, 2018
Thanks TD, that one is exactly what I have in mind. It is NYC and UL Listed, only draws 5 watts to maintain battery charge. Website does not say where it is manufactured. Downloaded the spec sheet, no mention of origin. Assuming that means it is Chinese. I submitted a request for country of manufacture, and told them if that one is domestic, I will buy it. And if it is offshore, to please identify one that is Made in the USA.
Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!!
Originally posted by 1320racer: Understand but after 40 years I’ve learned and I tell all my guys…when in doubt build what’s on the drawings and you’ll never be wrong.
Have you ever seen a print call for 16’ of fluorescent lighting on a 14’ wall? I have and if I cut a hole in the wall for the other 2’ of lighting to stick through I am sure I would be in the wrong. Engineers screw up too but usually don’t get blamed
Posts: 2595 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007
NO and I've built MILLIONS of square feet and hundreds of stories. Yes engineers and architects screw up and are held accountable by owners, CMs and GCs in my world
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000
From what I've read incandescent and LED lights can charge solar powered lights. A couple of solar LED spotlights that detect darkness or motion would be a cheap solution. For about $20 each it's worth trying.
Posts: 1567 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009
That is what I put in my shop, light inside and the solar panel outside and I got some flat mounted ones for outside the trailer on race weekends. Just turn them off during the week. Jok
Originally posted by Toad1: That is what I put in my shop, light inside and the solar panel outside and I got some flat mounted ones for outside the trailer on race weekends. Just turn them off during the week. Jok
Jok, I was thinking about doing the same on my race trailer. Just for a light over the side door. I have a tall flag pole alongside the house, and I bought a solar powered illumination kit that mounts down low on the pole, and it has an LED array that is small, 2.5x4", but very bright, it lights up the flags very well at night that are 20' high. The solar panel is only 5x6", and the light must have a great battery, because it lasts all night, even on the brightest of 3 settings. And withstands rain, snow, ice, and many 100* days. I had the same exact one for over 5 years at my old place. I am thinking of mounting the solar panel flat on the roof of the trailer, and the light on a swivel mount above the door, so I can tilt it down flat for travel.
Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!!
