Call Van Greer at Nickels Banjo, Nickels has them. If you're not set up to buy from Nickels or you don't know anyone who is, call me and I can get one drop shipped to you.

It don't matter to me either way, just trying to be helpful. I don't need a case.

These shortages will be perpetual, same as the accompanied inflationary costs associated.

This isn't temporary, it's permanent.

I am not ready to pull the trigger yet, it's my back up transmission. I was just noticing most of the lead times are several months out.

That's good to hear, it's just a backup. The point I'm making is if anyone needs a case, they better get one now. Van is a member here, Nickels has them.

These shortages are gonna be perpetual, it's not temporary. We're never going back to the way things were before.

People just keep funding this china globalist BEAST system . Gas and oil isn't a part of their plans.

It'll be gradual yet perpetual.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

B.T.E SELLS A NICE BELL KIT...CHECK THEIR WEBSITE...I'D NEVER USE A J.W. BELL...AS FAR AS CRACKED REID CASE'S...HAD A DRAGSTER GUY BRING A

BUSTED BELL ONCE..HE PURCHASED A NEW CASE ALREADY...BUILT THE NEW GLIDE, BUT TOLD HIM HE HAD CRACKED WELDS SOMEWHERE...OH,NO..CAN'T BE...

HE TOOK IT TO A CHASSIS GUY.AFTER ALL THE PAINT WAS REMOVED..HE HAD 5 BUSTED WELDS....I'D BE LOOKING AT YOUR CHASSIS & CLEAN OFF ALL THE

GRIME & PAINT.....YOU'LL FIND IT...GOOD LUCK...

quote:

Originally posted by banjo:


So anyone think my current mount configuration has anything

Still waiting for my **** to break..lol

S/g car capable of 8.50 ET's ran motor plate, mid palate and solid trans mount. Never an issue. That's on 3 different cars. Of course if the chassis flexs all bets are off..

Check any rivets you might have holding the interior panels and the panels that are attached to chassis to see if there has been any movement. That's a good indicator of flex.

Dave

No matter which side the urethane engine mount, it seems to me pretty self explanatory, how it is the bell is getting ripped on, at the hit or upon the front wheels touching down. I could explain it theoretically I suppose, if I have to.

Motor plates and solid mounted tailhousings on everything I have ever owned from 6.80,s to 15 sec and never cracked a case . Find the end of the crack and drill a 1/4 hole thru it . Weld up the crack and hole and be done . No one checks case certs anyway LMAO ....

If it was me I would get a new case. But since it is your back up transmission I guess you could weld it.

I would try to find out why it cracked. On my cars I generally do not bolt the transmission to cross member it is usually just sitting on it. On my Dragster it is bolted down but the hole is much larger and the bolt is bottomed out so it can still move and twist with out hurting anything.

Motor plates in my car with solid trans mount and never hurt a case. Been 8.50 in 1/4. I don’t understand why you would make motor rigid then want to allow trans to flex, doesn’t make sense to me.

quote:

Originally posted by green1:
Motor plates in my car with solid trans mount and never hurt a case. Been 8.50 in 1/4. I don’t understand why you would make motor rigid then want to allow trans to flex, doesn’t make sense to me.

This was a factory condition mint RS SS 302 cid 68 Camaro with a JW T400, frame ties no cage with a 400 sbc.

Same as my Nova, not a rigid chassis by any stretch of the imagination. No mid or engine plate. Same as Banjo's, a factory condition Nova with a sbc.

Depending on where it cracked, check the mating surface on the bellhousing. Mine cracked due to a defect where they machined the bellhousing. Between the 2 lower passenger side bolts, I found it tapered by .030 from the top bolt hole to the lower bolt hole. We welded it up, added a .030 shim to the lower bolt, and has been fine for the last 2 years.

Some forgot about my post back in October or November where my Reid case bell was cracked. I even had pictures. Was about 8 to 10 years old.

Update,

After waiting a couple of months, I finally got my new reid two piece case



Pulled the old transmission a part tonight and I think I found my vibration,





This is the rear tail housing bushing and it was inside the tailshaft housing around the tailshaft. Any ideas on what would cause this?

Here is a better pic of the crack in the case.



Thanks in advance.

There's two billet tail housing yokes. One for roller bearing tail housing and one for bushing.

I'm guessing you might have a roller billet yoke, it'll slide in a bushing but it'll be loose. Beat up and break the bushing.

If I'm right all you need is a roller tail housing for your roller billet yoke.

Unless you don't have a billet yoke, in that case it probably just wore out the bushing.

A bushing billet yoke won't fit through roller tail.

A roller billet yoke will fit through a bushing tail (loose fit)

If I were you, I'd buy a roller tail housing and a billet yoke for a roller tail, if you don't already have one, you've been running on a bushing tail.

Getcha a nice roller tail. Trans Specialties has a nice compact design.

There's a couple of designs on these tail housings. This is the design I prefer. Same as Reid design.

The vibration probably cracked that case.

Does not matter if you weld it or buy a new one I would try to eliminate why it cracked.

I would have solid mounts on the front of motor and something more flexible on the back of the transmission. Also your front clip or frame may be flexing some making it worse.

On my old altered I had several large engine limiters and front and rear motor plates. The transmission was basically just sitting on a rubber mount with the bolt on it stuck through and no nut on it.

That yoke has been in the car probably 10 years and this is the first time this has happened. That bushing may have been worn as it's has been in there a while.

I know the yoke was for bushing

That bushing coming out is most likely the cause of the cracked case. But why the bushing came out is the question. Transmission has about 200 passes on it since it was last out and many many passes before that. I did notice that there always seemed to be a drip or two on the tailshaft housing seal which may support the bushing was worn.

I will go back with another bushing and keep an eye on things.

You're right on about the crack.

I developed a vibration in the early 2000's, I never fully understood, it just appeared from one race to the next, I ran a stock PG case, tail housing and spicer non billet yoke. I put a new bushing in the tail housing, had a few different driveshaft shops balance the shaft.

Finally I gave in for a Mark Williams billet yoke and aftermarket roller tail housing after Fk'n around with it a few months.

It fixed it.

I even tried changing to a different stock PG tail housing. Nothing fixed. To this day I couldn't tell ya.

So keep that in mind, might help at some point dunno.