quote:

Originally posted by NC3x58:

So going off of this, how long should you run the trunnion bearing on the Jesel before replacing? In todays instance it seems that whichever is available is your better option but if one is truly much better than the other then it could be worth the wait..

Pull them apart and look for any spalling for fretting on the shafts under a magnifying glass. You can find the tolerance limits for the install size of the shaft in the bearing. Then have a no go made to upper limit and check each bearing. Look the needles over really good with a 10x loupe also looking for spalling. If the needles fall out of the cage obviously there is distress there and they need to be changed.

Put each rocker in a soft jaw vice and check the vertical movement of the roller tip to it's shaft. Probably see .001"-.0015" on a new one. If you have a new spare you can check it first as a go by.

If you really wanted to get to the nitty gritty you could have the bodies checked for cracks but they can usually be seen with a magnifying glass in aluminum. Check really good around the adjusters, lower trunnion area and the nose around the axle.

Look the adjusters over really good where they meet the pushrod also. I know this doesn't answer the run amount question though it gives you a way to decide that on your own.

There aren't any secrets any more about materials like there used to be. I can take anyone's part and tell you what it is made of so both of the companies will have the best materials in common. Delivery and aesthetics will probably help you make a decision.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by NC3x58:

So going off of this, how long should you run the trunnion bearing on the Jesel before replacing? In todays instance it seems that whichever is available is your better option but if one is truly much better than the other then it could be worth the wait..

I dont feel there is one answer for that. I do know that at least one of those brands mentioned do not use the same brand of bearings on all, so material quality (alloy purity) may be different with the same brand. Then there are the factors that influence a bearing to begin with, oil quality, viscosity, heat, cycles, load frequency.....on and on....then throw in the geometry.

Not all rockers have the luxurious life of a conventional BBC. When you get into rockers with heavy offsets, the loads become very extreme and the bearing life would be substantially less than an application where the valve and pushrod plane are in the same axis. I have always wondered why the designer who placed the lifter locations never talk's to the designer who places the valve locations...?...

quote:

Originally posted by Jerry Kathe:
Not all rockers have the luxurious life of a conventional BBC.

but this thread is about "the luxurious life of a conventional BBC" and specifically a bracket engine and when this is the subject and conversation, the proven benchmark, the shaft rocker of choice by the who's who of professional sportsman/bracket engine builders and the shaft rocker that outnumbers all others combined probably by 100:1 at the big $ events is T&D.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

I've broken both, but the Jesels fail more often, in similar environments.

quote:

Originally posted by Bob Deniker:
I've broken both, but the Jesels fail more often, in similar environments.

I've worked with both, you can hold the JESEL's aluminum in your hand and see they're made out of a lighter material. I've read in JESEL's advertisement, it is their approach to aluminum shaft rockers.

I definitely recommend the T&D's, aluminum.

Steel, if you want the Cadillac, it's definitely the JESEL's.

To the people who have broken the Jesel's, did you torque the adjuster nut to the proper torque spec or just by hand as tight as you thought? I've heard a lot of failures have came from over-torqueing the aluminum..

quote:

Originally posted by NC3x58:
To the people who have broken the Jesel's, did you torque the adjuster nut to the proper torque spec or just by hand as tight as you thought? I've heard a lot of failures have came from over-torqueing the aluminum..

Nick

Gonna call BS to this deal, and I have heard this also.. I have done this both ways for a long time and never saw a failure either way! So unless someone uses a 1/2 drive ratchet that's 2 feet long,,, well then maybe.... but you can believe what you want too.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TOP38,

quote:

Originally posted by NC3x58:
To the people who have broken the Jesel's, did you torque the adjuster nut to the proper torque spec or just by hand as tight as you thought? I've heard a lot of failures have came from over-torqueing the aluminum..

I go 20, and I think they say 23 or 25 in the instructions.

Have never broken a T&D rocker nor have I broken a jesel rocker back when I ran them from 2008-2011. That said I have always use the the LSM tool to set the adjuster nut which IIRC, is preset to 22 ft./lbs

My old 18 degree stuff. I sold them off five years ago. I'm sure they are still doing well.

All that was bought new in 2003.

so far, Manton Rockers have been the best I have used yet... They do cost a little more tho..

Uptown cracker

Billet steel intake & exhaust

I've been running the Jesel Pro series on my heads for several years now, the set I got from Will Harrison. Only issue is the adjuster screw on my #7 rocker seems a bit harder to turn, but has never been an issue. The only rockers I've ever seen anybody break are Jesel aluminum. Mine are due for a trip back to Jesel for inspection/replacement, but I'm thinking I'll just get a set of T&D steel instead. I know of plenty of racers running T&D, and have not heard of any failures.....

I left out some info. Those rockers in the pic were sent back for service at one time. Sheldon at T&D has always given good service. The only rocker problem I ever had was a broken stud.

quote:

Originally posted by I Hate Dragsters:
What about crower?

I have had 2 sets of Crower cast stainless shaft rockers and 1 set billet steel. On 18-15-13 deg. heads. 2 sets had custom stands. No issues.

Jason G.

pat musi built me a 598 with jesel rockers and i noticed after 10 to 15 passes there was excessice wear on all the edges of the rollers.musi told me to call jesel and they sent me a new set of rockers at no charge that fixed the issue.

few years later i bought a used motor and had a problem with one of the jesel rockers breaking up by the adjuster,probabaly had a ton of runs on them.i sent them all back to jesel and they called me and said they where going to warranty them all and it cost me 22.00 in shipping.i was like in love!!

few years later i had a 632 from nesbitt with t&d on it that all started breaking one at a time up by the adjusters. t&d was harsh on me and charged me full bore retail + which is what they should have done....but i will now always run jesel because of how well they treated me in years past.

I have both brands, they BOTH break (new or old)...race car parts break. Both can be found at track. Rockers and lifters are the WEAKEST parts available to us in the market today.

Have spares and more than one.

quote:

Originally posted by TORQIN:
I have both brands, they BOTH break (new or old)...race car parts break. Both can be found at track. Rockers and lifters are the WEAKEST parts available to us in the market today.

Have spares and more than one.

Buy steel rockers carry less weight down the highway, in the trailer... duh!

It's called hi performance towing!

I have spare parts for my Crower Steel which are very good and I keep spare parts for my Jesel stuff to.

Like I said before my first choice was Crower steel but they were not able to make them for my combination.