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DRR S/Pro |
If I remember correctly air bleeds work the opposite as jets, bigger is leaner. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Put it back to the way it was out of the box on the air bleeds... Only thing I would change is NO power valves and a jet from 92-94 on all four corners is a decent starting point... Bigger air bleeds are leaner...more air, less fuel... There is no way a gas 1050 has jets bigger than around a 95 generally....and even if it did...the carb wont pass more fuel...the passages become the restriction.... I've run 1050's for a zillion years....never bigger on jets than around 95's and usually lower and if it runs like crap it isn't the air bleeds... | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
No, just put it back like stock and go from there. What got you in the situation is someone who thought they were smarter than Holley and started changing stuff. (I do not mean that disrespectful, we are all racers and want to experiment and make our car faster) Nature of the beast. I am guilty of it myself but you have a problem go back to baseline first. Still unless you have a lot of dyno time with O2 and EGT working with changes and carbs then I would not vary much from factory stock Holley. Joe, gave you original settings and he really knows his stuff, he also is a very good dyno operator and knows fuel systems. Listen to him. I know of one "Professional carb builder" That could not get his car to run literally for years. And that fool was selling carbs and blaming customers when their car would not run to. He is STILL in business 20 years later and I am not sure if he ever figured it out. Only carb changes from factory I would do if it was mine is. 1. Jet extensions on rear only with matching notched float. 2. I would remove rear Power Valve, plug it and go up 6 jet sizes. 3. If you have a large cam you may need larger squirter nozzles by a few sizes. I also like to have a slosh tube on the vents with large hole on top to vent air. Personally I would leave front power valve in and just make sure it is right vacuum for your needs. But you can make it work with out it. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
1st, thank you curly for your kind words. 2nd depending on which air bleed it is as to what it does, your issue is the IAB (intermediate air bleed). The idle air bleed works from idle to around 2000 rpm, the HSAB works once the main boosters start working. The intermediate covers up the “hole” between them, but here is the thing, the intermediate circuit adds fuel all the time even when “on the main” jet. The fuel restrictions determine how much fuel is added, the air bleeds determine when the fuel is added. Let me give you a example, this weekend had a FE ford on the dyno, had the IFR and IAB set so this thing ran right at 15 to 1 with no lean surge (light load), but right as we got to 2000 rpm the A/F dropped to 12 to 1 then at 2200 back to the 15 to 1, So we went up .003 on the HSAB which stopped the overlap. Because the carb had to pull more air it delays when the HS circuit started. If you have a .051 as a intermediate Air Bleed then it will add fuel early and keep adding fuel until your back on the idle circuit. Needs to go back to at least a .063 Ok, if I was working on this carb I would put it back to stock, I would set the transfer slot on the primary at .020 the sec around .010. On this carb, If you need more air, you adjust the “idle bypass valve” it located in the center of the carb where the “air cleaner stud” would be. Then I would adjust Idle mixture screws, depending on where the screws ended up would determine my next course of action. A few notes, Annular booster pull more fuel then a down leg, the intermediate circuit adds fuel to the main. There is a reason it comes with 84 jets stock. sorry for the long post Joe PS here are the instructions for the carb, they are pretty good. https://static.summitracing.co...ns/hly-0-80925rd.pdfThis message has been edited. Last edited by: sr4440, Without data, you’re just another guy with an opinion. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Joe where in Texas are you ?? | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Killeen, about 50 miles north of Austin Without data, you’re just another guy with an opinion. | |||
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