When you changed to a solid bushing from needle bearing lifter did you make any changes to the type of oil you ran?

Valvoline VR1 conventional 20W-50 in everything ever since green Kendall went away circa 2000.

My same set of Isky .842 were installed last year for the third time.

The Crower .937 are still on their first go around and don’t get many runs, but no issues to this point.

I always used Penn Grade, it's still green FWIW......never a problem.

I guess I wondering if there was a big push for full synthetic over mix or conventional. I am up in the air. I am going with a quality bushing lifter. I have used VR1 conventional then switched to Driven semi last season. My engine builder wants me to go with Mobil RACING Full Synthetic 0w-30 or 0w-50. I was going to go with DRIVEN's new GP (green) oil semi synthetic but now I am torn with the builder wanting a full synthetic. I will probably give his recommendation a go with the number of motors he has built. He was "ok" with using a good needle bearing lifter but said "great idea" when I said I would upgrade to the bushing lifter. Obviously there are a million stories and opinions but I think it is a better choice for bracket racing and pilling up a lot of passes a year and it is what my builder would prefer I purchased.

I've been running needle bearing Crower Severe Duty w/HIPPO roller lifters since 2000 in my former 468 and my 522 and only ever ran Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic oil. Since 2012 I've been running bushed Isky EZX .903 lifters in my 522 and in my 615 since 2015 and again ran Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30. Switched to Lucas 20W-50 synthetic in 2018 due to convenience and contingency.

Never an issue with the Hippo's 842's.
Use the RP XPR 20w50. It works.....

Why 20w-50 in a bracket racing engine?

why not, it's a bracket engine.

I guess clearances should dictate but I dont know how many motors all fall in the same category for all clearances rods mains etc. so I would think a balance would be in order. There was an article where Lake Speed laid out all the component clearances and corresponding weight. I guess my thought was that a lower viscosity would be appropriate with the bushing oil wedge but I guess there are as many opinions as blades of grass in my lawn. This will be the first year going to an all synthetic race oil so I think I will settle between Driven and Mobil Track Only. I probably can't lose with either. I have been holding onto dinosaurs oil in some form either all or semi for a few years I guess I'll jump into the full synthetic arena with both feet. Thank you for the input.

You want a consistent viscosity oil. Not a viscosity changing oil. 30 winter 40 summer tight clearances methanol sbc.

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
This will be the first year going to an all synthetic race oil

talk about late to the party. I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic since the late 70s in my daily drivers and my first pass down the quarter mile my 396 under the hood of my Chevelle had Mobil 1 in the oil pan.

Heck back in the 70's i use to run Wolf's head oil. 40Wt. Green looking stuff. Funky smell too.
I use to use Lenckite. Soak all the internals in it. Spray the crank down and let it sit prior to assmy.Lenckite formula and name was sold to Bruton Smith and re-branded as Z Max.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
When you changed to a solid bushing from needle bearing lifter did you make any changes to the type of oil you ran?

When I went to bushed Crower lifters I did not change anything as far as oil goes. I do run TWO large Street type oil filters parallel so there is very little restriction and oil pressure loss and it filters down much finer particles out.

BG are you on gas or alcohol?

Curtis
Gas at this point. Am kicking around switching to E85.

welfare fuel and synthetic oil not a good marriage

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
Curtis
Gas at this point. Am kicking around switching to E85.

I know nothing about E85 but if you ever run alcohol the Driven brand full synthetics are something I wouldn’t run. I did and the oil doesn’t leave enough film on parts to protect from the inevitable moisture left under the valve covers. Steel parts will rust.

I have ran synthetic oils for years and I believe Driven is great oil that just wasn’t a good combination. Their semi-synthetic was no problem. Lucas synthetic and Amsoil was no problem.

I think the shedding properties of the Driven full is how it makes more power. In what we do though it’s not worth the pain on alcohol. Gas on the other hand is a whole different world.

Motor oil is motor oil!

Sorry guys, it's Christmas time, gotta have a little sense of humor.

I will be on gas come beginning of this year and probably the end. I will probably go with the builders recommendation, Mobil 1 Track Only. Curtis I really appreciate the heads up on alcohol. Thank you.

I doubt that there are any people on here that go long enough in between oil changes to see any benefit in synthetic oil. Synthetic oil is as good as it's ever been, conventional oil is 100% better than it once was.