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Oil heaters and block heaters??
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DRR Top Comp
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This is a Peterson from JEGS. Oil is 150 in 20 minutes. 23 sbc All Pro RR we don't wanna start,it's little hard on lifters with close to 1" cam. Start it in the water box, oil warm.

 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Ron Gusack
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I'd use one of these if I didn't have to pull the engine to get the pan off.
https://www.summitracing.com/s...keyword=oil%20heater
 
Posts: 459 | Location: Maryland | Registered: January 23, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Eman
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https://proshop.summitracing.c.../mor-23991?rrec=true
OK if you install one of these I'm guessing you put it in horizontally in the sump so it stays submerged.
 
Posts: 1471 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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How long does it take to warm oil to 120 with a jegs pad heater 400w?


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Posts: 56 | Location: manassas | Registered: April 06, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
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quote:
Originally posted by Eman:
https://proshop.summitracing.c.../mor-23991?rrec=true
OK if you install one of these I'm guessing you put it in horizontally in the sump so it stays submerged.


Yes



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Posts: 2965 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of HS professor
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What are you guys using to preheat water ??? I tried the Jegs version of the heaters that go into the freeze plugs holes. I was scared to use them as they didn't seem to tighten up snug enough. I've seen some in line units you use in the lower hose ???

I put in a Steffs Oil heater last time the engine was out and it works awesome !!! Welded a bung in the pan, Can heat the oil from 40ish to 120+ in about a half hr. Really tightened up the 1st to 2nd pass of the day.........
 
Posts: 1422 | Location: Monroe twp nj | Registered: December 05, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of Scott @ Moroso
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JUST AN UPDATE!!!

We are getting compalints about or heating pads buring diapers when they are on and hot.

Moroso suggests that you lower or take tension away from the diaper when its on. The issue is a diaper that has oil absorbed and or a absorbant pad that will quickly catch on fire...


Scott Hall
Sales Engineer
Moroso Performance
scotth@moroso.com
 
Posts: 54 | Location: Guilford Ct. | Registered: January 31, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
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We have diesel heaters in the radiator and Dry Sump on the TS ride. Work great and yes they get hot! Was thinking of a bung in both trans and oil pan as well as diff for the stocker.


Raceless in California!
 
Posts: 4524 | Location: Vacaville  | Registered: January 07, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of DaleH
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Scott @ Moroso:
JUST AN UPDATE!!!

We are getting compalints about or heating pads buring diapers when they are on and hot.

Moroso suggests that you lower or take tension away from the diaper when its on. The issue is a diaper that has oil absorbed and or a absorbant pad that will quickly catch on fire...[/QUOTE


What temp do these pads get? Ignite oil seems to be really hot. Like over 400F and an ignition source?

I can see melting the diaper, but fire from the oil?
Dale
 
Posts: 61 | Location: MN | Registered: August 02, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by DaleH:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Scott @ Moroso:
JUST AN UPDATE!!!

We are getting compalints about or heating pads buring diapers when they are on and hot.

Moroso suggests that you lower or take tension away from the diaper when its on. The issue is a diaper that has oil absorbed and or a absorbant pad that will quickly catch on fire...[/QUOTE


What temp do these pads get? Ignite oil seems to be really hot. Like over 400F and an ignition source?

I can see melting the diaper, but fire from the oil?
Dale


Look at this Oil Sample Report and go down to Properties and look at the Flashpoint Values.
 
Posts: 2484 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Eman
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https://www.engineeringtoolbox...int-fuels-d_937.html
Here's some flash points
I'd say the problem might occur if the pad itself burns which it will do if it comes loose from the pan.
 
Posts: 1471 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of talbotracing
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Good timing for this thread. I was just about to install one of the Moroso pad heaters and I use a diaper. That plan just changed.


Jay
 
Posts: 223 | Location: Ontario, Canada | Registered: April 22, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Eman
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Been looking at freeze plug block heaters, found something interesting. Zerostart makes 2 different 1 5/8" freeze plug heaters. One is 600 watts and they make a 1000 watt heater also. The 1000 watt unit is listed for the 6.5L diesel but it will fit into a SBC.
 
Posts: 1471 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of "The Bender"
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I found a cure for the heating pad burning the absorbent pad/diaper. At Lowes in the plumbing dept. they have a small insulating pad that is used to protect the area from the torch where pipes are being sweated together. I doubled it, put it between the heating pad and diaper and haven't have an issue for over two years.....

Here it is on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/HiwowSp...gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr2


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Posts: 3100 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Pro
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Living here in Michigan it gets pretty cold and when you are racing late into the night and waiting for sometimes hours between passes the block heater can save on time and fuel. I have personally used two of these in both my cars for years with no issues. I will use one or both heaters depending how cold it is outside. With these you have to orient them correctly so they will sit flush to the hole. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51123/10002/-1


--------------------
Bob Payton
S/P, T/D, S/C, TOP
309Z, 393, 3093, 8X93


www.apdracing.com
www.diamondracecars.com
www.callies.com
 
Posts: 1989 | Location: Michigan | Registered: November 14, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Eman
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Kats/Fivestar and Zerostart are the manufacturers of the block heaters. They are available through Amazon and the local auto parts dept. stores have them and will most likely warranty them for life. You do have to be careful not to run the car with them plugged in. They also don't recommend running the water pump with them plugged in either. Just like your electric water heater at home they will burn out if not submerged and bubbles from circulation will do it.
On the pad heater I'd say the biggest problem is if the heater peels away from the pan. They tell you not to plug it in unless it's attached to something that will absorb the heat or it will burn itself up. When I spoke to Kats they said if you place it on an oil pan they recommend using a silicon bead around it to prevent it from peeling especially if it's exposed.
 
Posts: 1471 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
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On some of our heater pads in our products we use Ultra Black silicone on the ones that end up soaked in oil and/or Naptha. I would use Ultra Copper if it were available in the large cartridges. It has a higher heat resistance but the black does a good job of holding on. I would remove the adhesive and coat the whole pad with a very thin amount of silicone and apply. I believe it will hold much longer than the thin adhesive applied to the pads originally if it get exposed to chemicals. That is just my opinion but we did a lot of testing to keep our pads applied and the hardest ones to keep on are glued to a cone shaped metal pocket so it's even worse than just flat applications.

Curtis



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Posts: 2965 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of HS professor
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quote:
Living here in Michigan it gets pretty cold and when you are racing late into the night and waiting for sometimes hours between passes the block heater can save on time and fuel. I have personally used two of these in both my cars for years with no issues. I will use one or both heaters depending how cold it is outside. With these you have to orient them correctly so they will sit flush to the hole. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51123/10002/-1




Those are the ones I tried Bob, I was a little hesitant to use them. They didn't seem to tighten up snug and I was worried once I put the diaper on I wouldn't see if they were leaking Roll Eyes
 
Posts: 1422 | Location: Monroe twp nj | Registered: December 05, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by HS professor:
quote:
Living here in Michigan it gets pretty cold and when you are racing late into the night and waiting for sometimes hours between passes the block heater can save on time and fuel. I have personally used two of these in both my cars for years with no issues. I will use one or both heaters depending how cold it is outside. With these you have to orient them correctly so they will sit flush to the hole. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51123/10002/-1




Those are the ones I tried Bob, I was a little hesitant to use them. They didn't seem to tighten up snug and I was worried once I put the diaper on I wouldn't see if they were leaking Roll Eyes


You have to work at them they can be installed wrong and leak. If you push it in far enough to squeeze the oring your good and then tighten the screw down. Need lubed up and some patience. I didnt want to mess with an oil pan heater since i run a diaper.


--------------------
Bob Payton
S/P, T/D, S/C, TOP
309Z, 393, 3093, 8X93


www.apdracing.com
www.diamondracecars.com
www.callies.com
 
Posts: 1989 | Location: Michigan | Registered: November 14, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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