DRR Top Comp
| If building a set and having coated . I would say building out nof SS and polishing welds would be cheaper. Maybe more owrk but cheaper by good amount. Figure the bends needed and shop around. Flanges probably biggest difference in cost. If have never built a set. Keeping them bolted to heads for every weld you can is very helpful in keeping them flat. Think with SS even more important. Just me experience. As for weight, I think only real difference would be in tubing thickness. SS might allow for thinner tubing by small amount. Then there is a lot of tubing in headers. Just my 2 cewnts and probably overpriced.
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| Posts: 4514 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011 |
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DRR Sportsman
| I wouldn't worry much about weight. There have been many posts here about A-B-A testing of dragster headers with different materials and designs that showed little to no difference. If you decide to go SS they will most likely be the last set you build.
Denis LeBlanc
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| Posts: 504 | Location: Manchester, NH | Registered: February 03, 2006 |
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DRR Trophy
| The only real way to see a weight savings is if the header tubes are thinner material, i.e. 16 gauge (.065) vs 18 gauge (.049).
After having stainless, I would never want to go back to coated mild steel, but stainless are costly if you buy or even build from scratch. |
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DRR S/Pro
| quote: Originally posted by TD3550: DynaTechs are heavy. My big tube chrome upswings come in at 38Lbs each.
Ya those things are boat anchors! LOL My down swept dragster headers (2.25" stepped to 2.375") weigh about 15 lbs each, 1/4" thick separate header flanges and Borla collectors. Similar Kooks headers are about 7 lbs heavier, mainly they use a 3/8" one piece header flange and a much bigger collector. I would recommend building a new set with 3/8" separate flanges so you can easily polish them! 3/8" flange plates are also more rigid and hold the gasket seal better. |
| Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000 |
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DRR Sportsman
| IMO, by the time you buy steel, build, clean, box up, ship to coater, have coated, and shipped back home it will be more cost effective to build them in stainless. Shop the bends and what not on Amazon and or Summit, if you look hard enough you can save yourself some money. Collectors get expensive so you could shop those on amazon and ebay as well. the ones i've bought have been pretty good quality. |
| Posts: 431 | Location: Pride, La | Registered: April 18, 2006 |
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DRR Top Comp
| I have always done a 1" long weld per tube. Easily ground off if needed. BUT, I also wrap my headers so can't say if a tech guy would have an issue with it.
. Dave
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DRR Trophy
| quote: Originally posted by camaro77: fabman what thickness do you recommend in SS
I prefer 18 gauge (.049) for weight but they won’t be as durable as 16 gauge if the car is prone to tire shake, abuse, etc. Anything light weight is a trade off for durability. My own headers I made support rods to help hold the weight of the collector (door car). |
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