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DRR Sportsman
posted
looking for some real world experience on headers pros and cons
need to build a new set for a bbc 2.250 to 4 inch currently have a set of dyna techs in mild steel coated. wondering if anyone has weighted a set of mild steel verse a set of SS ones and what is lighter? and is it more cost effective to build ss since they won't need to be coated?
 
Posts: 418 | Location: Bellingham MA | Registered: October 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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If building a set and having coated . I would say building out nof SS and polishing welds would be cheaper. Maybe more owrk but cheaper by good amount. Figure the bends needed and shop around. Flanges probably biggest difference in cost.

If have never built a set. Keeping them bolted to heads for every weld you can is very helpful in keeping them flat. Think with SS even more important. Just me experience.

As for weight, I think only real difference would be in tubing thickness. SS might allow for thinner tubing by small amount. Then there is a lot of tubing in headers.

Just my 2 cewnts and probably overpriced.




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4514 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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I wouldn't worry much about weight. There have been many posts here about A-B-A testing of dragster headers with different materials and designs that showed little to no difference. If you decide to go SS they will most likely be the last set you build.


Denis LeBlanc

 
Posts: 504 | Location: Manchester, NH | Registered: February 03, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of Fabman
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The only real way to see a weight savings is if the header tubes are thinner material, i.e. 16 gauge (.065) vs 18 gauge (.049).

After having stainless, I would never want to go back to coated mild steel, but stainless are costly if you buy or even build from scratch.
 
Posts: 286 | Location: USA | Registered: August 27, 2022Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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fabman what thickness do you recommend in SS
 
Posts: 418 | Location: Bellingham MA | Registered: October 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Those Dynatech's are heavier for sure. As Fabman stated, it all depends on what you use and how long they are.

Overall stainless is the only way to go, the upfront cost is higher, but they will last much longer so they are cheaper in the long run!!!! Mild steel rusts no matter what coating is on them, the outside may look ok but not inside. The other benefit of SS is they can be repolished anytime.

With regards to tube wall thickness, be careful going to thin, they will crack. Keep the collector as light as possible.
 
Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TD3550
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DynaTechs are heavy. My big tube chrome upswings come in at 38Lbs each.
 
Posts: 1420 | Location: Under a Truck | Registered: August 23, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by TD3550:
DynaTechs are heavy. My big tube chrome upswings come in at 38Lbs each.


Ya those things are boat anchors! LOL

My down swept dragster headers (2.25" stepped to 2.375") weigh about 15 lbs each, 1/4" thick separate header flanges and Borla collectors. Similar Kooks headers are about 7 lbs heavier, mainly they use a 3/8" one piece header flange and a much bigger collector.

I would recommend building a new set with 3/8" separate flanges so you can easily polish them! 3/8" flange plates are also more rigid and hold the gasket seal better.
 
Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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IMO, by the time you buy steel, build, clean, box up, ship to coater, have coated, and shipped back home it will be more cost effective to build them in stainless. Shop the bends and what not on Amazon and or Summit, if you look hard enough you can save yourself some money. Collectors get expensive so you could shop those on amazon and ebay as well. the ones i've bought have been pretty good quality.
 
Posts: 431 | Location: Pride, La | Registered: April 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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Question for those building your own headers, are you welding or tab bolting the collectors to the tubes?
 
Posts: 2543 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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I have always done a 1" long weld per tube. Easily ground off if needed. BUT, I also wrap my headers so can't say if a tech guy would have an issue with it.


.
Dave



F J B

 
Posts: 4555 | Location: Earth | Registered: February 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of Fabman
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quote:
Originally posted by camaro77:
fabman what thickness do you recommend in SS


I prefer 18 gauge (.049) for weight but they won’t be as durable as 16 gauge if the car is prone to tire shake, abuse, etc.

Anything light weight is a trade off for durability.

My own headers I made support rods to help hold the weight of the collector (door car).
 
Posts: 286 | Location: USA | Registered: August 27, 2022Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Just curious, how much weight difference can there be between a 2.25 / 16 gage and a 18 gage set of down sweeps for a dragster?

Bob
 
Posts: 3198 | Location: Lakeside, Ca | Registered: February 15, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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