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driveshaft for 2017 American
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DRR Sportsman
Picture of 329L
posted
What are some options out there? Already talked to MW about the CV shaft, but also looking at other options as well. Has anybody ran a standard style carbon or aluminum shaft in a car like this that goes 4.40s? I destroyed an output shaft, and now the driveshaft has about 15 thou of run out. I am going to replace because a shaft is way cheaper than a back half.


Jeremiah Hall
 
Posts: 710 | Location: Evansville, IN | Registered: February 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The aluminum Mark Williams driveshaft that was in my dragster has about 1500 passes on it behind an engine making 1100HP and running 4.60s and another 150 behind my current 1300HP engine running 4.40s without issue, before it was retired this season, replaced with the Goethe CV shaft.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of 329L
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quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
The aluminum Mark Williams driveshaft that was in my dragster has about 1500 passes on it behind an engine making 1100HP and running 4.60s and another 150 behind my current 1300HP engine running 4.40s without issue, before it was retired this season, replaced with the Goethe CV shaft.


Was the aluminum shaft faster than a steel? Is cv shaft faster or slower than either option?


Jeremiah Hall
 
Posts: 710 | Location: Evansville, IN | Registered: February 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Never had a steel shaft in the dragster and didn’t see any difference with the swap to the CV shaft.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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quote:
Originally posted by 329L:
What are some options out there? Already talked to MW about the CV shaft, but also looking at other options as well. Has anybody ran a standard style carbon or aluminum shaft in a car like this that goes 4.40s? I destroyed an output shaft, and now the driveshaft has about 15 thou of run out. I am going to replace because a shaft is way cheaper than a back half.


Get a CV driveshaft and don't look back. No performance advantage at all, in fact it is heavier than the steel driveshaft that was in my car, the safety aspect of it and peace of mind knowing your not going to tear up you car makes it worth every penny.
 
Posts: 2436 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Posts: 2436 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
Get a CV driveshaft and don't look back. No performance advantage at all, in fact it is heavier than the steel driveshaft that was in my car, the safety aspect of it and peace of mind knowing your not going to tear up you car makes it worth every penny.

This^^^

 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Pro
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Went from the MW aluminum to the chrome moly shaft no difference….in et….
 
Posts: 1263 | Location: USA | Registered: December 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Personally…I don’t understand why anyone would use carbon or aluminum…. Steel or cv for the win. My cv setup is 5-6 years old , zero issues…


J.R. Baxter

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Posts: 1523 | Location: Waxahachie | Registered: July 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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quote:
Originally posted by seabass:
Personally…I don’t understand why anyone would use carbon or aluminum…. Steel or cv for the win. My cv setup is 5-6 years old , zero issues…


I have to agree with that one. Seen too many failures of Carbon Fiber and aluminum. And on driveshaft I do not think you would see any measurable difference in ET but there is a difference in durability. I know some say the CF are stronger yet they are breaking.


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Posts: 4039 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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There is no issue running an aluminum driveshaft in the right application. Since 1999 all I have run is an aluminum driveshaft in everyone of my race cars and have never broken a U joint no mind the shaft but I also maintain my driveshafts by having them checked after a number of runs and install new u joints as should be done with every driveshaft regardless of material.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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I think you have to look at driveshaft failures the same as connecting rod failures. Most of the time but not all the time a rod breaks because of a bearing locking up on the crankshaft or maybe wrist pin failed. Same with driveshafts, carbon fiber may be the exception. A u-joint or yoke fails causing the driveshaft to come out. Cause could be bad angle, wrong length, broken or loose u bolts. on really fast dragsters hitting a bump at the top end inflicting a extreme angle on the driveshaft is also a cause of failures. The picture I posted above is perfect example, you can clearly see the driveshaft its self was not the cause.
Whether its a broken rod or driveshaft, the end results is not good.
 
Posts: 2436 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
I think you have to look at driveshaft failures the same as connecting rod failures. Most of the time but not all the time a rod breaks because of a bearing locking up on the crankshaft or maybe wrist pin failed. Same with driveshafts, carbon fiber may be the exception. A u-joint or yoke fails causing the driveshaft to come out. Cause could be bad angle, wrong length, broken or loose u bolts. on really fast dragsters hitting a bump at the top end inflicting a extreme angle on the driveshaft is also a cause of failures. The picture I posted above is perfect example, you can clearly see the driveshaft its self was not the cause.
Whether its a broken rod or driveshaft, the end results is not good.
I probably run one of those about 5 years then the guy that bought it probably run it 5 more….then one day it come apart on the hit……peeled the damn thing open like a can of biscuits…didn’t hurt a thing….wish I had a pic….that’s when I switched to chromoly
 
Posts: 1263 | Location: USA | Registered: December 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR / Crew
Picture of DragRaceResults
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One thing I do know is a cv is 3lbs heavier than a cm shaft. Not sure how much lighter an aluminum one is but I'm fix'n to find out.

SL...
 
Posts: 2110 | Location: Gallatin, TN - U.S.A. | Registered: October 12, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
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You won't tear this one up either. Can we say short?

 
Posts: 1409 | Location: Under a Truck | Registered: August 23, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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That would be because that’s a hard tail
 
Posts: 390 | Location: Natick MA | Registered: November 15, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Top355x:
That would be because that’s a hard tail
Yeah…just brake the frame in half….
 
Posts: 1263 | Location: USA | Registered: December 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Mike Frizie
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I went to the Goethe deal from a steel drive shaft. saw no change in ET. Best money I've spent for piece of mind and no more u-joints. Cool


Michael Frizie
ET 2471
 
Posts: 571 | Location: Winston, GA | Registered: April 10, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of 329L
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quote:
Originally posted by seabass:
Personally…I don’t understand why anyone would use carbon or aluminum…. Steel or cv for the win. My cv setup is 5-6 years old , zero issues…


How often do you service the shaft? How much does it cost to service the shaft?


Jeremiah Hall
 
Posts: 710 | Location: Evansville, IN | Registered: February 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of 369dragster
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quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:






Steve not to be critical but anyone using u-bolts at your horsepower level or any decent horsepower level is asking for problems. MW offers a billet cap that is far superior to the u-bolts. I know you don't have to worry about it now but figured I would throw it out there for people that don't know about them.

https://www.markwilliams.com/39112.html


Ken
 
Posts: 319 | Location: Massachusetts | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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