So before I go tearing this thing apart, I wanna get some other opinions. While I have my opinion I always like to hear other suggestions.

Warm car up, no issues, Head up for time trial and when hitting the transbreak button the car rocks (not a settle but an actual rock forward one button is pressed), make the run and everything seems ok. Get back to trailer and test it and sometimes it will not rock and sometimes it will. Head up for second time trial and it rocks again and car leaves like a turd. 60 is off 3 numbers and car runs 2 1/2 tenths slow and MPH is down. Temp is not hot and its full of fluid that looks good.

Any opinions on whats going on?

Is this a powerglide?

If it is and only rocks forward then typically the band is applying before the reverse clutch's fully apply and or reverse is slipping.

If it is losing 3 hun to the 60 and .250 in the 1/8th then I would think the band is slipping in low and you have low pressure. Most likely it is also slipping in high

Before tearing it apart I would put a gauge in the servo port and check line pressure. you want 220-250 psi for a typical bracket glide.

Sounds like you may have a pressure issue

2 1/2 tenths and MPH down? You may have a converter problem.
I think line pressure may be part of problem with rocking but losing that much ET and MPH I would look at converter.

Yes sorry it is a powerglide. We tried to adjust the band and re adjust it but it did not help.

Get a pressure reading first then take it apart. My bet is you have a pump failing

I was thinking a pump issue but wasn't sure. I am not familiar with a pump failure and how it would effect the performance going down track. What's odd is that the last 7 passes prior to this one the car printed tickets.

What type of gauge would be recommended for this, just any pressure gauge.

quote:

Originally posted by Da Shoe:
I was thinking a pump issue but wasn't sure. I am not familiar with a pump failure and how it would effect the performance going down track. What's odd is that the last 7 passes prior to this one the car printed tickets.

What type of gauge would be recommended for this, just any pressure gauge.

Low pressure will affect all aspects of the trans, converter, low, high, trans brake etc, the whole trans operates on Hyd pressure, knowing what pressure its operating at is invaluable information to have IMO

Any 300psi Gauge will work, just make sure you can read it, in park, in low, in high and while you put it on the TB. while in low when you push the TB button the pressure will drop but SHOULD raise back up quickly.

OTC 5610 is the kit I have. Does engine oil pressure and trans pressure.
https://www.summitracing.com/p...HuEJ-UAaAmmREALw_wcB

I forgot to ask,
Is this a stock or aftermarket case?

I have the harbor freight version. I've probably tested 5 transmissions and one person used the oil pressure gauge and it's been good so far.

https://www.harborfreight.com/...-test-kit-64872.html

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
I forgot to ask,
Is this a stock or aftermarket case?

Aftermarket Case, BTE. Nothing in this transmission is stock.

Whose pump is everyone running and why are you running that particular brand?

quote:

Originally posted by Cashflow:
Whose pump is everyone running and why are you running that particular brand?

Reid pump in the dragster. FTI pump in the door car.

The Reid pump was chosen years ago because I thought it was supposed to be the best. I don't know if that's true or not, but I've never had a pump-related issue.

The FTI pump was chosen because I needed an input shaft and they offer a pump/input combo kit. I don't think there is nearly enough clarity when shopping for these things, as far as whether a given pump needs to be used with a ringed or ringless shaft.

THE B.T.E. ALUMINUM VALVEBODY'S HAD AN ISSUE WITH THE SEPARATOR PLATE .THE BLUE ALUMINUM ONES....CHECK TO SEE IF IT'S FLAT AROUND THE TRANS. BRAKE AREA OR
HUMPED UP IN THE SHAPE OF A 5 SIDED TRIANGLE...REPLACE IT WITH A GOLD STEEL SEPARATOR & GASKETS...WHEN IT LEAKS..IT AFFECTS THE WHOLE GLIDE..ASK ME HOW I KNOW..

quote:

Originally posted by DON KALINA:
THE B.T.E. ALUMINUM VALVEBODY'S HAD AN ISSUE WITH THE SEPARATOR PLATE .THE BLUE ALUMINUM ONES....CHECK TO SEE IF IT'S FLAT AROUND THE TRANS. BRAKE AREA OR
HUMPED UP IN THE SHAPE OF A 5 SIDED TRIANGLE...REPLACE IT WITH A GOLD STEEL SEPARATOR & GASKETS...WHEN IT LEAKS..IT AFFECTS THE WHOLE GLIDE..ASK ME HOW I KNOW..

In this car (I have 3) if I remember correctly it had an FTI Valve Body (Aluminum). The transbreak solenoid was changed last month ( 4 races on it) but it was changed to the exact same that was in it FTI Solenoid.

This is what I would do.
Get a pressure gauge and get a transmission pressure reading first. You will probably have low pressure, id be willing to bet on that. Then pull the transmission. Inspect the pump gaskets and seals very closely and I'm sure you will see the seal is probably cavitated in ward and is just dumping that fluid back to pan. That's why you have low pressure. When temperatures get cooler/colder this gremlin car rear its ugly head.
You will have to check all the clutches etc. make sure they didn't get too much heat. If you only make one 1/8 pass you are probably good. Put pump back together with new gaskets and seals and make sure you tighten the pump bolts according to spec. Put it back in the car and I bet your problem will be solved.

THE BTE CASE...ANOTHER THING TO CHECK....THE SERVO TUBE AS IT GOES INTO THAT SMALL HOLE INTO THE CASE..INTO THE SERVO...THERE IS NO STOPPER FOR THE SERVO TUBE
TO BOTTOM OUT....ALL BTE CASE'S I USE...I GRIND OFF ABOUT .030 OFF THE SHORT END OF THE TUBE...DEBURR & POLISH...IF IT GOES TOO FAR...IT'LL HIT THE SERVO PISTON.
DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM...I CAUGHT IT WHEN I SEEN WITNESS MARKS ON THE SERVO PISTON...GOOD LUCK.

If it was the servo tube then he would have had this issue from the get go. It wouldn't have happened after a bunch of runs, it would have happened on the first run.

I still think you may be chasing two separate and different problems here.
The rocking is probably due to low pump pressure and several here have gave some good ideas where and how to resolve that.

Big red flag to me for possible second issue is 60 foot off 3 numbers and car 2, 1/2 tenths slow and that sounds to me like converter. Yes fluid pressure effects converter stall but I think it should be higher and original post did not say anything about motor blowing through converter.

Now if the engine RPM was up over normal then I would think it is all in transmission.

I would hate to see you pull transmission and fix low pump pressure and put it all back together with same converter and still be 2, 1/2 tenths slow.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
I still think you may be chasing two separate and different problems here.
The rocking is probably due to low pump pressure and several here have gave some good ideas where and how to resolve that.

Big red flag to me for possible second issue is 60 foot off 3 numbers and car 2, 1/2 tenths slow and that sounds to me like converter. Yes fluid pressure effects converter stall but I think it should be higher and original post did not say anything about motor blowing through converter.

Now if the engine RPM was up over normal then I would think it is all in transmission.

I would hate to see you pull transmission and fix low pump pressure and put it all back together with same converter and still be 2, 1/2 tenths slow.

If the transmission has a bad seal/gasket and the fluid is just being directed right back into the pan then that would have an issue on 60ft and everything else downtrack, also at the hit. It would mean low and high are both slipping.
Its hard for me to think this is a converter issue due to the statement that it was performing with no issues on the previous runs. Also while its not impossible, for there to have 2 issues simultaneously happen that are not related is the last thing I would consider.

First thing to fix is the low pump pressure.