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DRR Trophy |
Guys, I'm starting to shop for a different, newer tow vehicle. My current rig is an ancient Chevy 1-ton dually. Though it is a very stable platform, it is a little overkill I reckon. My first reaction is to invest in a Ford F250, 3/4 ton. Still maybe a little overkill but I would be comfortable with the extra beef. However, I'm now also considering an F150. I do insist on an 8' box and hope for an extended cab, along with 4WD. No older than about 2019. There are just more to choose from, and prob. less expensive than an F250 I still use an open trailer, but may get an enclosed trailer one day. My 'home' track is a 40-mile drive. Once or twice a year I would haul to another track 120 miles away. In 2023 I narrowly missed qualifying for the IHRA World Finals in Mississippi, a journey of 900 miles for me. Maybe I'll make it this season??? How happy are you with your F150 tow vehicles? What is your favorite engine and transmission combo? I would look for a unit with the towing package. May I assume they have better transmission coolers? When the first F150s appeared circa 1975, some referred to them as "5/8-ton" trucks. Would that still be true? Any other advice? Thank you much!This message has been edited. Last edited by: Bad Nusz, | ||
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DRR Trophy |
2019+ I would go with an F150 personally if you are also daily driving it, 5.0L engine, 10R(10 speed) transmission. Crew cab, long bed will be a tough combo to find though. expect to spend 40-60k depending on miles and package. If you're ok with being in that 50-60 range and are ok with the added maintenance cost of a diesel truck, you can get a really nice 13-17 F250 or a decent 18+ F250 for that price range. ------------------------------------------ "Any man can make mistakes, but only an idiot persist in his or her error." "To achieve greatness, one must be willing to dance in the voids of chaos and strife to conquer their future." | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
The 10r80, un tuned is a garbage transmission. If you can get someone to hp tune the skip shift, and shut the converter off until 7-8 gear, the converter will live longer. We have been replacing those transmissions at my shop quite frequently sense 2020. Jeremiah Hall | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
1/2 ton trucks are no good for towing regularly. It will be ok for your open trailer and while you can probably get away with towing a small enclosed, once you get an enclosed you will regret not getting the heavier truck. Billy Duhs - BD104X@gmail.com | |||
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DRR Pro |
This 24’ enclosed #7k+ trailer has well over 100k miles towing initially behind a 2004 Hemi Durango, then 2011 Hemi Ram 1500 and now a new purchased 2022 Hemi Ram 1500. The 2011 Ram had 180k miles and over half towing this 24’. The new 2022 Laramie has 19k miles towing to date. From WI I’ve towed over the Appalachians (Fancy Gap) numerous times traveling to the Carolinas racing from 2018 - 2023. I’ve towed up to 1,000 miles 17-18 hrs straight through as well. The Rams ride very smooth having rear coil springs. To the OP. Go to the internet Ford forums for the generation/model you’re interested in to get some good advice what others have done. Much good information out there. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Markemark I don't doubt your experience, but you have a 24' Featherlight which is probably one of the lightest, best towing trailers around and I don't think they're even available anymore. Also, your truck is 10 years old and a Hemi... from what I hear, many of the newer Eco-boost from Ford and the economical 1/2-tons from the others don't really have the ballz to tow what they are supposed to be capable of. Stepping up to 3/4 ton pickup will usually automatically get you a big V-8 without active fuel management, stop-start or any other nonsense as well as heavier brakes, axles, suspension and LT-tires. Not saying you CAN'T tow with a 1/2 ton, but it's not the best tool for the job. If the OP winds up with a much more common 26' or 28' Haulmark or Pace POS plywood trailer, he'll be glad he went with a 3/4 ton pickup! Billy Duhs - BD104X@gmail.com | |||
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DRR Trophy |
The 19+ F150 the OP posted about also comes available with the 5.0L V8. that engine + the ratio advantage of the 10R transmission(tuned like Jeremiah recommended) will tow nearly as well as a 7.3L(gas) F250 also with a 10R trans. the 7.3 is going to have a slightly lower torque curve, but again with a properly tuned 10R trans ratio advantage. That difference in mute. For comparison: I have a 5.4L 3V (also a mod motor) with a similar torque curve and power as the Coyote. if anything a little less power. I have a 4 speed transmission and high stall converter even. I tow my "cheapy" 28" trailer loaded down with 8-9k lbs payload no problem at 65-70mph ------------------------------------------ "Any man can make mistakes, but only an idiot persist in his or her error." "To achieve greatness, one must be willing to dance in the voids of chaos and strife to conquer their future." | |||
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DRR Pro |
C2500HD with the L8T and Allison. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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DRR Trophy |
It's interesting that you would suggest a Chevy, Goob. Just today in fact as a lark I stopped at a used truck dealer who seems to specialize in 3/4-ton Chevy trucks that were former fleet vehicles. Though I'm mostly a Ford driver for my daily drivers and seek an F250, this one Chevrolet 2500HD 4WD double-cab long-box really caught my eye. It had a beautiful, straight, rust-free body, great rubber, gas 6.0 engine, towing package, "only" 98,000 miles on it with an asking price of $28,500. It did get me thinkin' though I'm not quite ready to buy.... | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Myself and my family have owned all of the newer 1500 model vehicles in a combination of gas and diesel. Chevy, GMC, ford, Ram, etc. The Ram is hands down the nicest truck you can get right now. All of the others have been in the shop more than once before 60,000 miles. Purchased my wife a gmc Yukon, in the shop twice before 10K miles. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Lots of great input guys; I'm grateful. With other vehicles for daily drivers, the new(er) tow vehicle would be used pretty much only for towing a large trailer or hauling something big. I'll stick with a gas engine for now; not many long, steep grades in my future. A local dealership sells only good, used 3/4-ton trucks. Mostly Chevrolet, many extended cab, long beds. Very few Fords -- the reason they say is because Fords after 2017 have noisy engines! Does anyone concur with that claim? Thx! | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Even more reason to lean towards a 3/4 ton. Only down sides to a 2500 are a little more initial expense, worse gas mileage and a little worse ride when empty... None of which are important trade-offs if you aren't driving it every day. Billy Duhs - BD104X@gmail.com | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I’d agree with 2500 if only using for towing purposes But, if going 1500 gas The Chevy has had problems with the transmissions that are paired with the gas engine The ford really depends on the engine with some of the eco boosts having problems and other engines being fine I still say the ram is the best truck on the road currently. I’m not talking about what was the best 20 years ago, but currently | |||
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DRR Pro |
Market being the way it is, I felt like buying a brand new truck at 5% was the better financial move. I mentioned the L8T engine because it has none of the DOD goofy tricks, and now that they offer the Allison trans, it's a no brainer. Mine has the 6L90, which I know will be fine, but I'd still rather have the Allison. The L8T is the gas option that gets it. I still love our new one, and as hard as it is to say, it's almost worth the money. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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DRR Pro |
In Ram 1500, 2022 Hemi (mine) was the last yr you could order without eTorque (start/stop). 2025 Ram 1500, Hemi is no longer available and 3.0 I6 TT is new engine in SO (420hp) and HO (540hp) configuration. All 1500 truck manufacturers have their problems. | |||
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DRR Pro |
I have a 2017 Chevy Suburban 1500 which I bought new for $60k, with 5.3L, 6-speed auto, and the max trailer package, which changes the gear from 3.08 to 3.42, adds brake controller, various coolers, etc. I tow a 4,000lb 65 Impala on an 18' all-steel open trailer, and I go anywhere I want with ZERO drama. At 94,000 miles on the odometer, truck has been in the shop exactly once, to have the A/C condenser replaced. Whichever manufacturer you go with, a 1500 with a gas engine should be fine. The Burb is rated to tow 8500lbs. When I started shopping for this vehicle back in 2017, I started out looking at crew cab pickups, saw what they cost, and said screw that, I can get a Suburban for less and use it for a lot of other things. My wife and I LOVE IT for vacations and road trips. When this one ever wears out, I'll buy another. Mike | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Many more good suggestions, guys; thank you. A Suburban may be an option if I can find a great deal on it. I do tho carry A LOT of spare parts, along with fuel and a full set of spare tires. At an auction the other day, I saw a decent though slightly hail-damaged 2014 H&H 22' enclosed car trailer sell for $8,900! I bid up to $4,500 and thought THAT a stretch. Brand new ones must be horrible now. Looks like I won't invest in an enclosed trailer for a while. But I know too that they're not getting any cheaper. About 5 or 6 years ago a racing buddy of mine was offering his pretty decent though slightly hail-damaged 22' trailer for $4,000. Hell, I wish I'd jumped on that.......sigh. Renting a pickup from U-Haul to tow to a national event (1,000 miles) is not out of the question.....but in South Dakota I would have to pay about 12% in total sales taxes for that rental. Gad. The nice thing about renting though too is that U-Haul claims if their truck breaks down, they'll bring out a different one. So they said. Thx again, guys. | |||
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DRR Pro |
The last time I rented a Suburban, there was over $140.00 in local taxes and fees. 3 days. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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DRR Trophy |
An old thread maybe but.... Hell, for what I would pay to rent a truck I could make alot of upgrades to my current tow vehicle, the Chevy 1-ton dually. And the cash I'm saving toward a newer tow vehicle could go toward that new Bronco I want. I sortof worried about my old rig making it the 1,000 miles to a national event and back. But heck, it has an ordinary Chevy small-block engine with a Holley carb, an HEI distributor, a stock, mechanical fuel pump and a TH400 transmission. And non-antilock, hydroboost brakes. Many of my race truck parts would interchange, like the water pump. I reckon there is not a whole lot that can go wrong that this shade-tree mechanic cannot fix himself on the road, save for something inside the engine or transmission. The engine runs about 20 or so PSI oil pressure at idle and uses a quart of oil in 100 miles, though I have little clue where it is going. I may spring for a new crate engine sometime. There is no cruise control or stereo to speak of, but the A/C may work if I recharge it. I plan on installing cheap, new headers and quieter mufflers. The windshield and tires are new, and with buffing the paint and repainting the rims, I should be good there, lol. Maybe buff out the aluminum top-mount tool boxes. Fuel economy is still horrible at about 8 MPG, but I'm wondering about installing some sort of overdrive automatic tranny? I'm seriously thinking about removing the heavy-ass steel flatbed and installing something lighter. It only needs to carry aluminum tool chests, spare tires and the fuel tank. Remarks? Thanks! T. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
You couldn't give me a Ford truck, Sorry I owned the holy grail 2002 F250 7.3 turbo. Worked on it more then my race car. It went byby. Meziere Tech. Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level. | |||
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