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picking a cam for my old school sbc
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DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Building 327 toy. Not sure what its going in yet. IKt will be light either way. If build the knbow better than do this 3 wheeler with auto transmission and 3.73 rear end I have . Light in not the word for it. If go with makes more sense b uggy. Still pretty light. Will be eninge 4 spd rear end, fuel tank and couple buckets seat inside of a cage. Mayve a cheapo stereo,

Engine 327 bored few mild hp up as far as heads and intake.Nothing special. 10.5 :1 roughly 1-5/8 headers with 3" threw mufflers. Heads who knows now. Probably some aluminum med range with 2.02or 2.05; 1.6 or 1.625 valves have set of each I bough long time ago.

Going to keep old school for while with solid flat tappet, Need goo thump at idle. Lowend minor concern but helpful whn not showing my buytt. Figure 7000 shift sound good,maybe not to engine.LOL

I am thinking 240 to 250 at .050 and keeping l;ift around .500 to .600 with rockers. Have few picked to narrow down if can get them. Suggestions on badass of the drive=in cams. Actually if you have old cmp cams the he305 cam was advertised as just that,LOL

Suggest away. Hell its all for fun with this thing.




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Posts: 4542 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Goob
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Can't beat the O.E. 327 / 350 HP HYDRAULIC flat tappet. Sealed Power sells a blueprint series copy that is great. #1003 I think?
Last 4 digits of the Chevy part # are "3151" i.i.r.c.


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N375
 
Posts: 1880 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Goob have had that cam before and agree its good cam.

Really want solid lifter in this deal. Hell ease access to adjust. Plus that solid lifter sound just goes with hopped up 327.

Knowing me I will change cams because bored.LOL A solid roller would be best since can swap w/o buying lifters and if money to throw at it I would do that and may at later date right now have too many projects and have to be crazy starting this one,but that never stopped me.




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Posts: 4542 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Comp cam 280B6 will do it.
 
Posts: 700 | Location: Bucks Co Pa | Registered: January 23, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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I would not use a flat tappet, but that's just me.
 
Posts: 135 | Location: Il,IL | Registered: March 22, 2021Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of wideopen231
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I have no problem with roller hyd. or solid except the cost. In long run its cheaper but if getting up cash difference this project will be a long run. Too man y project of more importance. 69 panel need butt load of body work quite a few pieces to get. Then new exhaust,stand along computer for 4l80e transmission, wheels, tires, intake, headers and ss exhaust and interior.
We will ne get into piece want top get for FED. Once get pistons and rings taken care of and decide if build with 4.25 or 4.5 crank which means ned rods and doubt find another set with half run and half price., Paint job for car finally. Tip of iceburg.
My Harley Springer needs few tings so can sell to pay of other stuff including starting another custom bike, RoadKing Custom need few hyundred in pieces so can ride and get wife off butt about it being parked for cars needs.

Oh yea and winning lottery to pay for all this.LOL

Thats why I am bottom dollaring this project. Figure unless b uy new heads(doubtful) I should be out for about700 to 750 in engine. If build buggy a lot of bargain hunting will be in order along with selling some shelf items. Wheels and tires will be biggest items not in stock pile.
\
Now if someone has a roller cam and lifter they want to get rid of dirt cheap?




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Posts: 4542 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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quote:
Originally posted by B.C.Malibu:
Comp cam 280B6 will do it.


Like it. Same as crane I ;picked except it is olut of stock period. About 10 sites and none had one. 242/250 at .50 is right on what I have been looking at. Should thump pretty good w/o being dog ass lazy bottom end.




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Posts: 4542 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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There used to be some good hydraulic or solid lifter cams. Now everything is roller and it seems none of the old cams and lifters are any good.

Do not know what has changed but seems none are lasting very long before they wipe out cam and lifters.


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"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

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Posts: 4347 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of wideopen231
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Well dang that means I will have to get another cam after it wears one out.

I know lack of zinc in oil is one issue. Figure manufacturing short cuts is another. It is that or sorry material.

First cam out of box maybe a older hydraulic I had in 85 Z/28. Edelbrock rpm cam. Ran pretty good and had decent thump to it. Enough thump that only was could get 5.0 mustang play was to not be idling at a light. They all thought badass when I had the 305 HO 180 hp POS. All I did was move few numbers around and nobody wanted to play.LOL Maybe it will last for while and if does not I made some room on shelf

I have had flat tappet comp cams in the Panel for 6 years and so far its living. Waiting for it to loose lobe swince I drive it so easy.

Do like the solid B.C. Malibu suggested




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Posts: 4542 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Made 450hp 302 cubes with that cam and a set of fuelie heads ported by myself.
Delta cams will grind that stick for you.
Buy a good set of lifters and check the face to insure their ground correctly.
 
Posts: 700 | Location: Bucks Co Pa | Registered: January 23, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Curly1
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quote:
Originally posted by wideopen231:
Well dang that means I will have to get another cam after it wears one out.

I know lack of zinc in oil is one issue. Figure manufacturing short cuts is another. It is that or sorry material.


If you lose a set of lifters and a cam you have metal all in your motor.

A lot of people have been breaking in cams carefully and using good oil with Zinc and still losing cam with in first hundred miles or so.

I do not know why this is happening so much but I am not going to take a chance on it.


https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/
"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4347 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of wideopen231
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I may give jones cams a call on cam. He is local. Well 100 miles local. Figure if getting his cam and his recommended lifters it might live.

Did read few things on lifters and getting extra oil to lifter/lobe contact area that may be helpful too.




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Posts: 4542 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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