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Trailer dove tail
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DRR Elite
posted
New to me trailer. Has nice big door bumper and a long extension ramp on an already long door since it is an extended height trailer.
Only problem is the dove tail. Backing my son’s 245” car in requires boards to clear the dove tail transition.
Even my 205” car is a struggle.
I am considering using a dolly (aka catapult) for loading. But even when you set it down the transition will be super close riding down the road.
Anyone ever “fix” this in a trailer?


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6517 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Oh
There isn’t much more to be gained on the ramp side. Actually sitting in the trailer is difficult clearance wise


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6517 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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A good friend of mine deleted the beaver tail in his trailer last offseason. I don’t think I recommend undertaking that task.

Much of it was documented on the Bishop’s Performance Motorsports YouTube channel.


Tony Leonard
 
Posts: 3277 | Location: Inver Grove Heights, MN | Registered: March 18, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I’ve modified two U haul sells a Dooley for moving trailers and took the ball out and made forks that pivot like the jr dragster tow dolleys
 
Posts: 442 | Location: Natick MA | Registered: November 15, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Problem with elemenating the beaver tail is then the ramp door doesn’t line up turns into a very large undertaking
 
Posts: 442 | Location: Natick MA | Registered: November 15, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My 28 foot trailer had a dovetail with 4 inch drop over 8 feet.
I cut a couple of 8 foot 2 x 4’s lengthwise diagonally and attached to floor.
Attached new plywood and diamond plate on top of those 2 x 4’s giving me 2 inch drop over 8 feet.
Built up ramp door 2 inch all the way around with 2 inch aluminum boxed channel topped with plywood and diamond plate.
Ramp door and floor line up again.
Re-attached 6 foot long flaps.
Also added cheap winch with remote to open & close door.
Still jack up front about 4 inch off of hitch ball and dragster goes right in forward or backwards.
 
Posts: 1 | Location: FL | Registered: March 16, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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I’m at 5” drop, which really sucks
I’m thinking that this could be an option.
I imagine that door got a bit heavy. So the winch is a requirement


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6517 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
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For my Front Engine Dragster I put 2" x 12" boards down and screwed them to the floor and had built in front wheel chocks so front of dragster was about 8" off the deck of trailer. Made it easy to drive right up in trailer until front wheels drop in there and then strap it down and go.
May not have been real pretty but worked great.


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4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4458 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Question does the sons car have front suspension
 
Posts: 442 | Location: Natick MA | Registered: November 15, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Top355x:
Question does the sons car have front suspension

No
I thought a front suspension with an air bag would be slick


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6517 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I was going to say that a guy sent me a picture with Diamonds front suspension and he added a air bag to lift it I went looking I don’t have the picture anymore but looked like and air bag for an air ride cab
 
Posts: 442 | Location: Natick MA | Registered: November 15, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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D and D race products has a nice looking dolly
 
Posts: 442 | Location: Natick MA | Registered: November 15, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Trying to avoid the dollys
In the dovetail area, similar to the above suggestion, I put down 1x4’s as a support frame. I put 1/2” plywood over that and left some area in front of the boards unsupported. That length was able to be bent down to the original floor surface as a taper. Over that I went with 1/4” and extended it a bit further than the 1/2” to taper off more. You don’t notice the transition as you walk over it. Coin flooring should go over it nicely.
We made a 3/4” transition flap to the ramp door. Will do some test fitting maybe tomorrow


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6517 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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One cool one I saw over the years was an airbag mounted in the swingarm area on a dragster. Inflate it for loading, towing, and unloading. Deflate it and remove it (with push pull pins) for racing. I cannot for the life of me remember the racer that did it, but I saw it at Farmington... and it worked very well.


Mikey
 
Posts: 1717 | Location: In a Marriott near you! | Registered: February 10, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Elite
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quote:
Originally posted by head gamez:
One cool one I saw over the years was an airbag mounted in the swingarm area on a dragster. Inflate it for loading, towing, and unloading. Deflate it and remove it (with push pull pins) for racing. I cannot for the life of me remember the racer that did it, but I saw it at Farmington... and it worked very well.


That’s awesome!


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6517 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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It’s a lot of work but it makes loading a breeze. Nice job!


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Raceless in California!
 
Posts: 4791 | Location: Vacaville  | Registered: January 07, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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