Ed & Trip Nic
Although retarding the timing for start using this method isn't a bad idea, then why do some say using a start retard via the MDS box claim it made it worse? As Trip Nic noted the MDS needs a reference point before it can set the retard but I don't think this is the issue. I feel 99% of start issues is due to other issues that make themselves visible here such as low voltage to the starter during cranking, improper rotor phasing, carb setups among others. When all is good I have never seen starting with full advance to be an issue. Since switching to a crank trigger moons ago, I have only had this issue once and it was due to the MDS distributor slip collar loosening up a bit and allowing the distributor to rotate and cause the rotor to get too far out of phase. Fix this by drilling a small hole in the housing that the set screw would sink into and some blue Loctite.

Rotor phasing using any type of ignition retard such as start and or NOS is not an issue, set the rotor to fire on the front side of the cap terminal and the retard just moves it a bit closer to the midpoint. I will say if anyone is using the old crab distributor cap, your asking for trouble using any retard! It's just too small diameter wise so it's to easy for spark to jump.

Just food for thought.

I didn't see that this has been said but I had the exact same problem with my 555 and it ended up being the mag pickup wires too close to the coil wires and cross firing at start up. Start retard made it worse! Haven't had an issue since with no retard at all and locked out timing.
Good luck!

I learned the start retard was bad years ago. After killing multiple Flexplates and Starter Spragues I unhooked it.
The only time I ever have kickback is a lean start.

I have a question though on the red 7AL3's. I've had mine for 20 years and haven't noticed any issues. Of course I might see a difference by updating to something newer. I remember people talking about them over the years. Weren't there certain years that the so called bad ones came out. Thanks

The ones that were the Bad MSD box are p/n #7320 and are Red. The updated box is Black p/n #7330 and came out in 2013. If you got a Red box i would up grade to the Black one and keep the other box as a spare. That is what i just did after a lot of trouble with my Red box.

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Put a Meziere 10 pitch starter and flex plate on it and be done

You know if there’s an ignition issue changing the flexplate and started doesn’t fix the ignition issue.

Had this all year. Checked my rotor phase and was way off. Don't know if it was always like that, but raced for years with no problem. I put the adjustable rotor on and now it starts