The distributor doesn't have a 'timing setting' in a crank trigger setup. Its only responsibility is to have a cylinder post nearby to carry the spark when the rotor receives a signal from the crankshaft magnet/pickup.
Tony Leonard
Posts: 3253 | Location: Inver Grove Heights, MN | Registered: March 18, 2004
while I understand hwo the trigger works. I do not see timing distributor at 58 and trigger at 70. Before comments it not a bracket,no bracket car cost 2500 per pass nor do they make 6500 to 7000 hp. Question is about trigger and distributor(in this case mag) not what kind of motor it is in. Trigger has no idea what kind of engine it is on.
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I did not criticize anyone. I do not include all stuff because a bunch of bs comments about it does not belong here. When it is just a question in gener.al and has nothing to do with what it is bolted to other than just the function of the piece. Not a word against Tony's explanation. Just that I knew how it worked and the fact I am questioning someone else's idea of sitting the two so far apart I di give a brief explanation of why such high number for timing. A brief comment as to why the post in first place. Never said anything about If someone see's criticism in my state point it out.
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Just my $.02 Regardless of what type of distributor/mag if using a crank trigger, rotor phasing should be close to the center of plug/terminal post in the cap as possible. If distributor/mag shaft has excessive play due to worn drive gear slop in drive etc center the rotor in the most retarded position. Mag/distributor should be locked out as well.
Bruce Lee
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.
Kind of my idea Bruce. As for mag lockout. I have never seen a mag that had anything to change it advance or retard wise. Then there are a lot of things in the world I have not seen.
IMO being off just gives more of a chance for firing off the wrong plug. According to few things I have read. If one plug is dead and the firing is between terminals it could fire off the wrong one, the path of least resistance. With the way A/fuel kills a whole at will and burns the plug if rich. I can see that happening very easily.
Again just getting input from others, just incase my thoughts are flawed on subject.
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With a mag, you have a luxury that you don't with other non-pickup distributors like everyone is probably relating to. We always set the base timing using the pickup in the mag base, then re-fired the engine on the crank trigger. Then matched the CT pickup to our base timing setting. The factory pickup will always be in phase unless you're using alot of timing strategies (and I'm sure they are) . If you have a 12deg retard built into a run, the phasing of the pickup to the rotor tip will be off 12deg for the duration of the retardation of the timing. Mag44 will have quite a bit of timing shift throughout the rpm range. Will almost always lose a couple degrees at max rpm. Probably some of that due to mag drive internals flexing. Not everyone has tried to turn a 44 by hand. We always verified it was close at stage (6k). Not a job for just anyone.
Posts: 194 | Location: Rock><Hard Place | Registered: February 20, 2010
yea mag 44 is not easy to turn. Now we rarely get much over 6500 with the A/fuel deal. stage about 3100 before going to the high side. I did watch a video of Nostalgia a/fuel and he was 4400 stagging.
We check mags at 3000 while on alky.If you watch some videos of cars leaving line you can see butt load of shaking of mags even with all the anchor points we have. Amazing that the damn things don't break off. Has to change timing a lot.
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Originally posted by bry-war: With a mag, you have a luxury that you don't with other non-pickup distributors like everyone is probably relating to. We always set the base timing using the pickup in the mag base, then re-fired the engine on the crank trigger. Then matched the CT pickup to our base timing setting. The factory pickup will always be in phase unless you're using alot of timing strategies (and I'm sure they are) . If you have a 12deg retard built into a run, the phasing of the pickup to the rotor tip will be off 12deg for the duration of the retardation of the timing. Mag44 will have quite a bit of timing shift throughout the rpm range. Will almost always lose a couple degrees at max rpm. Probably some of that due to mag drive internals flexing. Not everyone has tried to turn a 44 by hand. We always verified it was close at stage (6k). Not a job for just anyone.
So you agree no good reason to set car up with 12* difference?
When we pull 13 to 15 at hit and ramp back in.plus 5* loss thru box. That is lot of numbers b ouncing around to startout 12* off on base.
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Originally posted by S/C718: You should be more specific when you ask the question. Also before you criticize someone who is trying to give you advise.
quote:
Originally posted by wideopen231: Question is about trigger and distributor(in this case mag) not what kind of motor it is in.
JFC! No one with a clue is running a mag on their bracket car and no your POS is not a bracket car. Why do you post here? You don’t have a bracket car, aren’t a bracket racer, know very little if anything about bracket racing no mind bracket cars and their systems based on your plethora of questions about basic stuff and everything you touch/install on your shyt box breaks and/or fails. There must be a better suited forum for you but “Bracket Talk” ain’t it.
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000
Almost nobody ran injection in 1985 and now half of cars out have some form of injection. Besides my being here seems to upset your candyass and that is enough reason. In case you have not heard it is a free country and folks can visit any internet forum they damn well please and nobody needs your permission.
Again showing your expertise in the world of shyt, All hail the king of shyt.
Ed if you want to make the world a better place go anally pleasure yourself with a long red cylindrical piece with a sparkly string out one end.Light string and get yourself a real bang, here is free match.
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,Talk about clueless, can't you read? It seems to piss you off. Plus I enjoy it. Lots of knowledgeable folks here. Not that you qualify for that one. I rarely ask a question that I do not know the answer to, but I am open to getting others' views on the subject. Pissing you off is just a bonus
As for competitive ,looks like the only way, your overpriced POS can be competitive. Is when you put someone else in the seat, Nothing more than high-priced junk to make your lil **** feel bigger.Built by someone else and didn't seem to win shyt till you put your son in it. Then he had to tell you which tires you should be running.This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,
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I've been on this web site for many years and the information it's provided has been invaluable.
None of us knows everything so sharing information has been the key reason I and many others post questions on DRR. I simply wanted to thank the many people who have spent time responding with their experiences and information.
Stay cool and I don't just mean with the room temperature but with the responses. I realize the conversation can get a bit heated at time but it really doesn't serve anyone to get nasty.
Bob
Posts: 3215 | Location: Lakeside, Ca | Registered: February 15, 2003
you know what they say about a bad apple. Imagine how much more information share there would be if a lot of folks had not gone elsewhere because of drama queen ediot bashing everything he knows nothing about. We all know of former members that have left because the shyt made it not worth the trouble to sift thru .
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kiss the brown stinky spotThis message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231, 
