Have a 7AL3 red box that has a problem with the launch rev limiter. With a 4600 chip in it sometimes it’ll be 4600 other times only 4400 or less. And yes I’ve tried multiple chips. We used the burnout circuit as the launch chip to finish out the year and it worked fine on that circuit, but I want to get the launch circuit fixed.

So I’ve read about sending boxes to MSD and tech west in the past. Who do you prefer these days and why?

I sent mine to MSD because I couldn’t get a reply from Tech West.

I thought there was one of our guys on here who repaired MSD stuff? Can't recall who, but will try to find him...

I never had any luck sending a box to MSD.

A waste of time and $$ and more than once for me...

Rev limiter chips are resistors as you probably know. The sockets they pug into are often not very tight......A poor connection will change that resistance reading the box reads.

I tape my chips in place on my 7AL3...red box...

That box came with my car and has 2 stickers on it showing it went back to MSD twice. Probably for ignition retarding issues I think the previous owner told me.

Since I had mysterious loss of top end power in September that box may get replaced in 2020....

I work with electronics practically every day.....and my opinion is jaded.....when in doubt....throw it out.....LOL

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
I tape my chips in place on my 7AL3...red box...

That box came with my car and has 2 stickers on it showing it went back to MSD twice. Probably for ignition retarding issues I think the previous owner told me.

Since I had mysterious loss of top end power in September that box may get replaced in 2020....

The new 7330 boxes are a great upgrade to the old 7230 that has had known timing issues. I’ve seen many of these new 7al3 in cars that prefer to use analog.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
I never had any luck sending a box to MSD.

A waste of time and $$ and more than once for me...

Rev limiter chips are resistors as you probably know. The sockets they pug into are often not very tight......A poor connection will change that resistance reading the box reads.

I tape my chips in place on my 7AL3...red box...

That box came with my car and has 2 stickers on it showing it went back to MSD twice. Probably for ignition retarding issues I think the previous owner told me.

Since I had mysterious loss of top end power in September that box may get replaced in 2020....

I work with electronics practically every day.....and my opinion is jaded.....when in doubt....throw it out.....LOL

Duct Tape here also. Never leave home without it.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
I tape my chips in place on my 7AL3...red box...

That box came with my car and has 2 stickers on it showing it went back to MSD twice. Probably for ignition retarding issues I think the previous owner told me.

Since I had mysterious loss of top end power in September that box may get replaced in 2020....

The new 7330 boxes are a great upgrade to the old 7230 that has had known timing issues. I’ve seen many of these new 7al3 in cars that prefer to use analog.

Thanks.....I do have a Grid controller connected to the old red 7AL3.....

I could go either way.....Add the Grid box or stay with the old Analog box....

At the last race I went to.....the Maple Grove National event in September....I had problems and could not find it....
I lost 6-7 MPH and never really found a mechanical issue...….only thing I did see was timing issues ….the timing had moved from where I know it was and was moving around when revved up....

I'm changing a lot of stuff over the winter and the box could easily be on the list....


I had a fuel injected Firebird Stocker and the 7AL2 box it came with started missing real bad......I Borrowed my friends identical box and it ran flawless.....

I Sent my box back to MSD and it came back supposedly ok.....Put back in Firebird.....missed ridiculously bad again and I swapped boxes again and same result....no miss with friends box.

I Bought a Digital 6 and it ran fine.....but did not last and failed.....It may have gotten wet, I don't know....sold car and new owner had it by then....

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
I do have a Grid controller connected to the old red 7AL3.....

I could go either way.....Add the Grid box or stay with the old Analog box....

Consider going 7720 that has another 40 – 60mj of spark power over the 7al3. 7720 is very reliable and can be repaired if it fails. The 7730 /7720 together are the most desired package imo.

My 7720 and two 7730’s are 8 yrs old, have been in several other cars to troubleshoot and have never failed.

[/QUOTE]

At the last race I went to.....the Maple Grove National event in September....I had problems and could not find it....
I lost 6-7 MPH and never really found a mechanical issue...….only thing I did see was timing issues ….the timing had moved from where I know it was and was moving around when revved up....
[/QUOTE]

Your box is bad Rich! I went thru the same thing a year or so ago but chased it for weeks - bang on the box while the timing light is on the motor and the timing will jump around. I sent mine out to MSD and never had a problem after I got it back, but my buddy sent his back 3 times before giving up and buying a new one. I have a spare if you'd like to borrow it to verify yours is bad.

Billy I worked all day between 3 time runs trying to find a mechanical problem. Found nothing.

I decided to check the timing after the last run and it was higher than normal. I had checked it and set it just the week before and it moved. Revving the engine and it was moving around way more than normal. I use the MSD electronic distributer and had a spare pickup. I changed it and the timing looked better. I lost rd 1 the next day. Ignition issues. Self inflicted. I left 2 screws loose holding rotor base to dist. My bad on that one.

I’m gonna probably put the grid ignition box in it since I already have the controller. My 7AL3 is from 2003....and they always had a sketchy rep for timing issues.

My car/motor is totally apart and I never found a thing.

Motors getting a little bump up.

Thanks....

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SCDIV1,

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
I do have a Grid controller connected to the old red 7AL3.....

I could go either way.....Add the Grid box or stay with the old Analog box....

Consider going 7720 that has another 40 – 60mj of spark power over the 7al3. 7720 is very reliable and can be repaired if it fails. The 7730 /7720 together are the most desired package imo.

My 7720 and two 7730’s are 8 yrs old, have been in several other cars to troubleshoot and have never failed.

Your posts about the grid definitely tell me you know them very well so I value your info.

What is the best coil to use with the grid ignition? I’ve been using a Pro Power for years.

I'd like to know the options for MSD box repair also. I have 2 older 7AL2 boxes I'd like to get tested/updated/repaired.

Scott

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
What is the best coil to use with the grid ignition? I’ve been using a Pro Power for years.

MSD recommends the Pro Power 8201 coil for Analog 7al2-3- or 8.

For Grid 7720 Digital, MSD recommends the 8251 or 8261 coils.

I have one of those MSD ignition testers and about 4 years ago I had a problem. The igniont "Tested" good but car was terrible, one pass it would run a 5.09 next run a 5.49 banging and popping. MSD kept sending me on a wild goose chase saying nothing could be wrong with the box it is a wiring or ground issue, bad crank trigger pick up and on and on.

Finally I called Pat at Techwest and he said "Let me guess is it one pass good and next one will not run?" or something like that. I sent it to him and he fixed it all up. He is rather hard to get a hold of but he knew what was wrong and fixed it first time with out a bunch of BS run around.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
What is the best coil to use with the grid ignition? I’ve been using a Pro Power for years.

MSD recommends the Pro Power 8201 coil for Analog 7al2-3- or 8.



For Grid 7720 Digital, MSD recommends the 8251 or 8261 coils.

Thanks !

I got the grid for my car after running the 7al3 as well. I didn't have any issues with it, just wanted to upgrade when I upgraded the engine. It's been flawless. I'm still learning what I can do with it, but it's nice to just grab a laptop, key in a couple of things and wham, changes made!!! You can turn stuff on and off, change stuff, just about anything with a keystroke and never touch the engine. My engine guy back in Denver has some things he does with the grid that are pretty slick...he's VERY CREATIVE with it....you won't be disappointed. I also have the boost retard controller hooked up so I can watch crankcase vacuum as it records whatever pressure or vacuum it sees, and the wideband o2 setup as well to aid in tuning....and it's all accessible from the grid....

I have sent 2 7AL3's to Techwest over the years and they have fixed them and are very knowledgeable. Never had a problem since.

http://www.techwestracing.com/
Phone: 704-995-4286

SCDIV1,

I had the same issue you are describing 2 years ago running a Pro Power and a 7AL2. My car was really lazy coming off the stop and slow on the top end.

It turned out my Pro Power was not working at all. I was told by MSD to NEVER use a Pro Power for anything that runs more than a few seconds at a time.

Switched to the HVC-II coil and I gained my 5 m.p.h. back.
We did the same thing on my dad's car, which was not having any issues, and gained 2 m.p.h.

quote:

Originally posted by Camaro80z:
SCDIV1,

I had the same issue you are describing 2 years ago running a Pro Power and a 7AL2. My car was really lazy coming off the stop and slow on the top end.

It turned out my Pro Power was not working at all. I was told by MSD to NEVER use a Pro Power for anything that runs more than a few seconds at a time.

Switched to the HVC-II coil and I gained my 5 m.p.h. back.
We did the same thing on my dad's car, which was not having any issues, and gained 2 m.p.h.

Thanks for the info...

Unfortunately when you have an odd issue like I did most racers that had something they felt was similar point to what their issue was.

I had people say converter.....ignition box.....coil....and on and on....but none of those things would generally cause the odd issue I had in September...


I spoke to my converter builder and we pretty much agreed it did not sound like a converter....I dropped trans pan and inspected the ATF....nothing to see...

Converter is sitting on a bench.....

Engine completely apart....nothing wrong...

Engine ran perfectly normal and all numbers were normal on those last 4 runs right out to about 1000'.....

I Also was hearing an odd noise so that really confused the issue.

Engine is getting a complete new rotating assembly....

Converter is going to builder to cut open....

Ignition will be updated somewhat.....

Just for reference....I never had a problem using Pro Power coils with any ignition box going back many years....

Whatever the issue is or was will be gone one way or the other come spring 2020....

Rich,

I had the same sort of thing happen years ago. Turns out the weld on the distributor shaft that holds the rotor support was cracked all the way around. It about drove me nuts. Rather than re-weld it I stuck a spare distributor in it and that fixed it instantly. Good luck!