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DRR Pro
Picture of 00 DEAD ON
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
I figured it was not pulling the front wheels or it would go to the right. I think if you move some weight off left rear it will fix it.

That is assuming it is not a problem with track not being level.


How much weight? When i do it adds it to the front left
Im at
LF 709 RF 604
LR 579 RR 552


Brian Mollison
2013 American Dragster
2020 Sumerduck Dragway VA Top ET Champion
2017 Sumerduck Top ET & SSS Track Champion
2017 MAC Top ET Track Champion
2009 Sumerduck Dragway Va Top ET & IHRA SSS Track Champion
2008 IHRA Division 1 Top ET Bracket Final Runner-up
2007 Colonial Beach Dragway Top ET Track Champion
 
Posts: 1032 | Location: Stafford, Virginia | Registered: October 03, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of 00 DEAD ON
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 00 DEAD ON:
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
I figured it was not pulling the front wheels or it would go to the right. I think if you move some weight off left rear it will fix it.

That is assuming it is not a problem with track not being level.


How much weight? When i do it adds it to the front left
Im at
LF 709 RF 604
LR 579 RR 552

Or
LF 715 RF 596
LR 571 RR 561
Thats race ready on the starting line
Well I’m leaving it here at
LF 689 RF 603
LR 586 RR 547
IM going to try this and see how it works
I also shortened the left bars 1.5 flats to square rear

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 00 DEAD ON,


Brian Mollison
2013 American Dragster
2020 Sumerduck Dragway VA Top ET Champion
2017 Sumerduck Top ET & SSS Track Champion
2017 MAC Top ET Track Champion
2009 Sumerduck Dragway Va Top ET & IHRA SSS Track Champion
2008 IHRA Division 1 Top ET Bracket Final Runner-up
2007 Colonial Beach Dragway Top ET Track Champion
 
Posts: 1032 | Location: Stafford, Virginia | Registered: October 03, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Brktracer
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Needs to be about 50 lbs heavier on right rear. Watch the tire wear. It will tell the story.


Matt Ward



 
Posts: 1395 | Location: South Carolina | Registered: March 20, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of 00 DEAD ON
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This is a 5.40’s-5.50’s car. If that makes a difference in set up


Brian Mollison
2013 American Dragster
2020 Sumerduck Dragway VA Top ET Champion
2017 Sumerduck Top ET & SSS Track Champion
2017 MAC Top ET Track Champion
2009 Sumerduck Dragway Va Top ET & IHRA SSS Track Champion
2008 IHRA Division 1 Top ET Bracket Final Runner-up
2007 Colonial Beach Dragway Top ET Track Champion
 
Posts: 1032 | Location: Stafford, Virginia | Registered: October 03, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Quick trip down 95 to North Carolina, Jr Carter- OUTLAW Motorsports will be the best money you can spend, guaranteed.
 
Posts: 142 | Location: Ashland,Va | Registered: March 29, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of sst5167
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If you have access to scales, as mentioned above, get the RR roughly 50 lbs heavier than the LR. Since you don't have anti-roll, accomplish this by turning the top right 4 link bar to the left (the direction you want the car to adjust to).


Mike Boehner
 
Posts: 93 | Location: Lake Havasu City, AZ | Registered: January 19, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Since this is a 5.40-5.50 door car invest in a anti-roll bar, start with one flat of pre-load in the right adjuster (make it longer) but no more than two flats. In the long run the money you spend on a anti- roll bar will be worth the investment. They are inexpensive, easy to install and very effective.

You can continue to add weight to the RR wheel by adding pre-load in the top right four link bar (turning it inward) to the point where the car may want to become a problem when you apply the brakes while stopping. I agree that the right rear is a bit light and that the overall front weight is a little on the side heavy, probably why it doesn’t do wheel-stands. A 1/4 of a flat makes a difference, don’t go wild with the adjustment, a little at a time and look at the scale change, as you do it will also add weight to the FL.

Three last things to mention is that:

(1) the spread of the four link bars on the rear end also effects the amount of hit the tire sees.

(2) be aware of the lower bar angle, shoot for about 2 degrees down at the front.

(3) work with the intersect length.

If the wheelbase is off it will create all kinds of issues, square it up before you do anything but still add the anti-roll when you have the time and money.

Good luck and be safe.

Bob
 
Posts: 3203 | Location: Lakeside, Ca | Registered: February 15, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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How much more weight on Right Rear? I can not tell you that on my altered it liked about 100 Lbs more on right rear but it had very short 4 link bars. On my car corner weight was critical because that basically steers the car if you are doing big wheelies. Since your car is not doing big wheelies you are more flexible.

There is a lot of variables, traction, tire size, total weight, horsepower and four link settings.

As others have said 50 Lbs sounds reasonable but you just need to try it and see. I think you will find car will be easier to drive.


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4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4282 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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what RPM are you doing burn out if low RPM try and raise it up some
 
Posts: 418 | Location: Bellingham MA | Registered: October 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by aaron:
Good Article from Bickel.

https://www.onallcylinders.com...-track-temperatures/


So here it is right here. What's happening is because of the low hp in play (sbc), the rotation of the rear end is driving the driver side rear tire into the ground (rotation of driveshaft) making more traction on left side. So to equalize traction loosen the front end on the right side. Sure, you want your corner weights the same or close relative to each other sitting still on the ground as a basic fundamental, however adjusting the spring on the front compensates for corner weights under power during the burnout. I'd loosen the right front spring, if that doesn't cure the steer in the burnout, there are several other adjustments that can be made to compensate for corner weights under power. Let us know in here and we'll touch on those too according to where this adjustment lands us.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of 00 DEAD ON
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Mike, actually that spring is all the way down. It still goes to the left a little. Guess I’ll just get use to it


Brian Mollison
2013 American Dragster
2020 Sumerduck Dragway VA Top ET Champion
2017 Sumerduck Top ET & SSS Track Champion
2017 MAC Top ET Track Champion
2009 Sumerduck Dragway Va Top ET & IHRA SSS Track Champion
2008 IHRA Division 1 Top ET Bracket Final Runner-up
2007 Colonial Beach Dragway Top ET Track Champion
 
Posts: 1032 | Location: Stafford, Virginia | Registered: October 03, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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How many clicks are in play on the rear dampers on rebound and compression? We don't need to know how they're set but just the number of clicks available.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of 00 DEAD ON
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
How many clicks are in play on the rear dampers on rebound and compression? We don't need to know how they're set but just the number of clicks available.

There 10 on the rebound and 9 on compresson


Brian Mollison
2013 American Dragster
2020 Sumerduck Dragway VA Top ET Champion
2017 Sumerduck Top ET & SSS Track Champion
2017 MAC Top ET Track Champion
2009 Sumerduck Dragway Va Top ET & IHRA SSS Track Champion
2008 IHRA Division 1 Top ET Bracket Final Runner-up
2007 Colonial Beach Dragway Top ET Track Champion
 
Posts: 1032 | Location: Stafford, Virginia | Registered: October 03, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
On the driver side,,, add one click on rebound and take one click away on compression.

On the passenger side the opposite,,, take one click away on rebound and add one click on compression.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
On the driver side,,, add one click on rebound and take one click away on compression.

On the passenger side the opposite,,, take one click away on rebound and add one click on compression.


Exactly how is that going to help? The shocks only job is to control the speed in which the suspension travels, and the suspension isn't moving during the burnout.....
 
Posts: 130 | Location: Over here | Registered: November 28, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Jonesz:
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
On the driver side,,, add one click on rebound and take one click away on compression.

On the passenger side the opposite,,, take one click away on rebound and add one click on compression.


Exactly how is that going to help? The shocks only job is to control the speed in which the suspension travels, and the suspension isn't moving during the burnout.....


Of course it is. Take another look.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of DLR
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Interesting topic here, brings me to an age old issue I have always had with my car. Similar to Brian's car, it's a 5.50 SBC chassis car, 4 link strut deal with anti roll. Problem is when track conditions are good the car leaves straight with short wheelies of about 50 feet. But when traction starts to diminish, car drifts to the left while front tires are in the air. I've squared, I've added neg. preload to no avail. Maybe I need to add a little rear steer IDK.
LF601
RF559
LR668
RR611
I've seen other door cars do this also, what's your thoughts?
 
Posts: 476 | Location: BENTON HARBOR, MI | Registered: August 29, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Before going anywhere with this be absoulutely certain that the rear end is square in the car.

The corner weights look OK, although a little light on the RR. Any more than 2 flats of pre-load, or negative load, is my limit it jacks the chassis out of whack and causes other issues. Please refer to paragraph one.

If the car drifts to the left WHILE the front wheels are in the air you might try lowering the right wheelie bar 1/4 more than the left. That should slightly reduce the effect of the right tire. Don't go more than 1/2, if it takes that much to straighten the car the problem is elsewhere.

Rear steer is done as a last resort.

BTW, 50 foot wheelies are not short. They look great but hurt the ET, plus it's a little easier to steer the car with them on the ground.

Good Luck:

Bob
 
Posts: 3203 | Location: Lakeside, Ca | Registered: February 15, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by DLR:
Interesting topic here, brings me to an age old issue I have always had with my car. Similar to Brian's car, it's a 5.50 SBC chassis car, 4 link strut deal with anti roll. Problem is when track conditions are good the car leaves straight with short wheelies of about 50 feet. But when traction starts to diminish, car drifts to the left while front tires are in the air. I've squared, I've added neg. preload to no avail. Maybe I need to add a little rear steer IDK.
LF601
RF559
LR668
RR611
I've seen other door cars do this also, what's your thoughts?


Negative preload is for high hp cars 1100 1200 hp up. Low hp like you have, rearend rotation controls chassis dynamics. I could fix it in a flash, although it would be a process of elimination, meaning it could be a few different things causing this phenomenon.

I suspect when the left side rear damper gets warm, it develops hysteresis (slack). Pull them both off. If they're gas emulsion, when you shove the shaft into the main body it'll come back out on it's own. If one does and the other doesn't it'll be obvious the problem (gas leaked out). If there not gas emulsion you can't do any kind of rudimentary test yourself like this besides cycling both listening for air in oil, but you could just switch the driver side damper to the other side. Try it like that, might be a easy fix.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of DLR
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
quote:
Originally posted by DLR:
Interesting topic here, brings me to an age old issue I have always had with my car. Similar to Brian's car, it's a 5.50 SBC chassis car, 4 link strut deal with anti roll. Problem is when track conditions are good the car leaves straight with short wheelies of about 50 feet. But when traction starts to diminish, car drifts to the left while front tires are in the air. I've squared, I've added neg. preload to no avail. Maybe I need to add a little rear steer IDK.
LF601
RF559
LR668
RR611
I've seen other door cars do this also, what's your thoughts?


Negative preload is for high hp cars 1100 1200 hp up. Low hp like you have, rearend rotation controls chassis dynamics. I could fix it in a flash, although it would be a process of elimination, meaning it could be a few different things causing this phenomenon.

I suspect when the left side rear damper gets warm, it develops hysteresis (slack). Pull them both off. If they're gas emulsion, when you shove the shaft into the main body it'll come back out on it's own. If one does and the other doesn't it'll be obvious the problem (gas leaked out). If there not gas emulsion you can't do any kind of rudimentary test yourself like this besides cycling both listening for air in oil, but you could just switch the driver side damper to the other side. Try it like that, might be a easy fix.




I did that a couple weeks ago when I had them off to see if I could feel anything. I swapped side to side and saw no change. BTW these are Afco Big gun shocks.
Keep in mind this problem only arises when starting line conditions go south.
 
Posts: 476 | Location: BENTON HARBOR, MI | Registered: August 29, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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