|
|
Go ![]() | New ![]() | Find ![]() | Notify ![]() | Tools ![]() | Reply ![]() | |
| DRR Trophy |
408 small block mopar (similar architecture to 406 SB Chevy), 175-180 kPa (~10.5-11 psi) of boost on 93 pump gas, 10.5:1 or so CR. How far is too far on timing? Graph and current timing table below. Wondering how much further we can push it. You can see in the jagged light blue where I added 2-3 degrees in the (3000-6000, 118-140 kPa) range and the lighter green/darker yellows where I added 2 degrees in the (3750-5500, 161-168 kPa) range. This overall picked up 2 tenths and 3.5 MPH in the 1/8 mile. Converter is very tight and doing no favors also. | ||
|
| DRR Pro |
steve you know how this works spark plug reading is key lol thank you, president Trump | |||
|
| DRR Pro |
I sent a PM about a half hour ago to Magnethead stating the same. 2BKING ![]() 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
|
| DRR Sportsman |
Air intake temp is a big factor. What are you seeing there? is this a combo that would be 35-38* if it was NA? | |||
|
DRR S/Pro![]() |
To simplify this he is looking for a target max safe timing at 10lbs of boost with a ProCharger. His 408 10:1 compression Mopar would closely relate to a 23* head SBC. This is a drag-n-drive truck on 93 octane pump gas with Holley EFI | |||
|
| DRR Pro |
I provided my inputs in PM. The only thing I want to see is a picture of the spark plugs ground straps. It has been well over a year since I saw the last couple of plug pics. They had plenty of timing in them. The mark was around the bend, heading for the weld with heat 1-2 threads down. IMO, the best thing you could do is show the plugs ground straps. Using pump gas, you have a very narrow tuning window. 2BKING ![]() 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
|
DRR S/Pro![]() |
Yea he needs to put a new set in first, he said he cant remember how old they are other than they from way before his last 1200 mile drag n drive event | |||
|
| DRR S/Pro |
This is just a suggestion with the graphs you’re posting to make it easier to follow. First, zero the time table to launch. Second, place a curser at max rpm prior to shift or somewhere that has some relevance in your posting. When you place the cursor in the graph, it’ll generate a “marker” on the “table” in relationship to the cursor position. | |||
|
| DRR Pro |
Here's the most basic/generic rule of thumb for boost vs. timing. 1lb. = -1* of timing; this is from its baseline NA timing for peak power. This is a general rule of thumb. My engine made peak power with 36* - 38* of total timing. I use 36* as a safety factor! That being said, my bracket tune makes a peak of 15lbs. of boost. My timing is at 18.7* at that level. According to the rule of thumb, I should be at 21*. I would not want to go there! I'm using 100 UL pump gas with a small amount of water/methanol injection in the blower inlet. My hotter tune with the same boost, but with better fuel (VP MS109 UL). We are at 22* & need about another 2* - 4*, we'll creep up on it in 1* increments. This tune is a good bit quicker/faster than the bracket tune with the same boost. All we are doing is adding a better fuel, more fuel & more timing. Pretty sure some of this was where Greg Kelley was going with his question. 2BKING ![]() 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
|
DRR S/Pro![]() |
Bryan, do you maintain that 18.7 all the way down the track or does it fluctuate with the level of boost? | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata |
| Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|

