I have a tube chassis Sunfire with a funny car cage. The left front cage bar is always in the way from getting into the car to working with the practice tree. It's just not comfortable, I have considered cutting bar out and using a larger window net. Also thought about removing bar and relocating the bar but would require removing the body
and don't want to do that. Have any others dealt with this and how did you address it? Merry Christmas to All

Monte, Saturday I will post photos to make clear the issue.

The bars Monte is talking about

Monte's bars

Looks like a pretty important bar, I would just leave it and learn to live with it

Does the steering wheel come off? Seems there would plenty of room then?

It's not so much getting in and out that's the issue it's when I am strapped in my left arm is really hard into the bar. I guess it just feels clumsy to me. If I could simply move the bar uphill a few inches I would probably do that.

quote:

Originally posted by Little Chief:
It's not so much getting in and out that's the issue it's when I am strapped in my left arm is really hard into the bar. I guess it just feels clumsy to me. If I could simply move the bar uphill a few inches I would probably do that.

Pretty sure you can remove it entirely, and attach the appropriate window net, if you're good with 8.50 and slower certification.

My racing options are all 1/8 mile. Never looked at the rules for the 1/8.

I'd need to review, but I think you are covered for 4.50-up with a standard 10-point full cage.
Your modified SFI spec cage will still be above and beyond requirements.

Being uncomfortable or too confined in the driver's seat is more of a safety hazard than a lot of things. You gotta be able to drive.

When I first drove cars with a F/C cage it was uncomfortable and felt confining.
I got used to it and just developed my own routine just like driving a dragster.

I would not cut that bar out....

It's part of the funny car cage and could mean the difference between walking away from a crash or not....leave it and get used to it....believe it or not it's part of the support structure for the whole cage....I could be wrong, but if you were to remove it I don't think your car would certify at any et due to an illegally modified roll bar....you can add bars but I don't think you can take them away unless the whole thing is replaced.....

Can you reposition seat to move you away from the bar and make you more comfortable might be easier than cutting out part of cage

quote:

Originally posted by Top355x:
Can you reposition seat to move you away from the bar and make you more comfortable might be easier than cutting out part of cage

That would be my first suggestion. Jest a few inches away may make a bunch of difference and be fairly easy to do with out sacrificing any safety or weakening the cage.

swap the Kirkey seat for a Jaz aluminum seat and reposition

Thank you all for the input. The seat is as far inboard as possible, I have even encouraged the seat around with the help of a rubber mallet. Testing out a possible solution this morning with one of Tim McAmis steering wheel extensions,it's about 21/2 inches longer than the previous one and may be the ticket. Merry Christmas

As others have said, removing the bar would prevent cert quicker than 8.50.

If you wanted to move the bar you will also have to move/rework several other bars (kidney bar, helmet bar and of course the gusset tube). If I were to move it I would attach it at the top in the same place and just move the bottom attachment point back. Remember your helmet has to be behind the front part of the cage so do not leave any doubt it isn't. Then replace all the other tubes.
As a couple have already mentioned moving the seat even an inch might make all the difference in how you fit in the car. Ed mentioned getting rid of the Kirkey seat. It looks like your arm would be hitting the seat before the bar so that may be a simpler option as well.

Dave

Try this contact your div, tech directer and see if a curved bar from the horizontal brace down would be legal -cut bar at brace replace with bar that connects to down bar ****her toward main hoop this should clear your arm more. Connection will need sleeved with roset welds

quote:

Originally posted by vetman:
Try this contact your div, tech directer and see if a curved bar from the horizontal brace down would be legal -cut bar at brace replace with bar that connects to down bar ****her toward main hoop this should clear your arm more. Connection will need sleeved with roset welds

I am assuming you are talking about the windshield/roof bar or halo? If so read what 6. says, that would be a no no..
Just as clarification here is what the SFI says about bending tubing and repair or modification in the funny car cage or main hoop which is part of it.

From SFI 25.4

6. No components may be clam shelled in order to satisfy outside diameter or wall thickness requirements. Components within the funny car roll cage insert may NOT be repaired by splicing, patching, clam shelling, ect. All other components may be repaired by splicing, patching, clam shelling, ect. According to generally accepted aircraft repair procedures.


8. Unless otherwise specified, all tube components may be bent or angled.

This is from SFI 25.4 which covers a mild steel car. If it is chrome moly it is the same.

Dave

can you post some better photos of where that bar land in the roof area it can be moved back some possibly and even bent out some the small gusset I would put o the back side that will give more roof and yes cut the steering column back some and add a extension