I’m going to make a comment, and it is NOT directed to the OP, but instead to anyone considering ignition options in their race car.

First, imho, anyone that is using a non-programmable ignition is limited to any type (rpm, timing, outputs) of control by having to add some other external control for this function. Their options are limited to how many external devices they install. Even if your ignition control has a retard or rpm feature, something has to control it even if it is an insert able chip.

The ability to have complete control of your ignition requires only a $400 programmable ignition control device and a laptop or tablet that runs windows.

This programmable ignition also controls ANY feature a delay box can control after trans brake release, AND it can lock out a delay box BETTER from re-activating during a run than the delay box lock out feature. This lock out feature will also work if not using a delay box when no-box racing and be Legal in all N/Ihra classes. And the control can be made to work in Foot Brake for output and retard functions.

This Control will also record (and store multiple runs) any function that it is controlling (and some that it is not also) in a data acquisition file that you can quickly download to your laptop.

This is a $400 ignition control that will easily connect to your present system. When you want options this ignition can give you as much or as little as you will want. With this ignition you’re in control.

GO GRID 7730

quote:

Originally posted by ferndaleflyer:
markemark I leave off the foot, if I leave off the button I will run top where the button belongs. I sometimes change to leaving in 2nd gear right in the middle of a race. Competition thinks you have lost it when they see you dial up 3 right before a run.

Fern, I agree with your method and have been doing this for several years using my different methods.

Although my car weighs 2835 w/driver it has a th400 with sbc in it because it offers options. I’ve short shifted the 1-2 for years using different times with and without timing control. Although my car has run as fast as 6.05 short shifting the 1-2, I like it best when running 6.45 – 6.50 et at over 111 mph.

This th400 has a 2.10 / 1.40 planetary that better suits the weight of my car.

Recently I had the trans serviced by ATD and had their latest th400 1+2 valve body installed. I looked at 1+2 VB for several years and this one had the 2 options that I wanted. It was also a free install with the trans freshening that I needed with over 1000 runs on the trans. This 1+2 option is what I wanted for box racing and am now learning what the car likes for 2-step rpm and delay settings.

My theory is this. If you continue to do the same thing, you can expect the same results. Until I win one of those big races I will continue to Not do the same thing.

sst386 is right disconnect secondarys.3 plus depends on converter

Guys, thanks for all of your input.

1. The short-shifting approach already proved it won't do what I need. Converter flash is only 1K-1300 less than normal shift point, and shifting at stall speed only dropped a tenth.
2. Can't shift on time, as I shift manually, and even if I had an automated shifter, it would still result in same as #1 above.
3. Pulling timing did not help, even down to 20*, did not want to go less than that for several reasons.
4. I am curious about the MSD Grid, and do like some of the features, but the bottom line, is the only aspects of car performance it can control are timing and shift points, right? Which are covered in 1, 2 & 3, above.

The TnT session may or may not get rained out this evening, looks like a storm moving in at this time.
In light of the limited opportunities available for testing, am going to hope for the best tonight, and have narrowed down my approach to what I see as the 2 most viable options:
A. Disconnect the secondary's this evening, and hopefully get in a pass or 2 to see what that yields. Maybe it will work, although I do wonder what it will do to fuel distribution and A/F ratio because of (probably) really high WOT vacuum ?
If it doesn't slow by 2-3 tenths, then I will go to next option:
B. Buy the Edelbrock 4150-4500 adapter, (Thanks for that P/N, Tony!), switch to the gas 850 for next weekend's points race, and hope it doesn't get rained out. Pretty sure that would put me right where I need to be. Just need to see what mods I'll have to make to my air pan to accommodate the extra 2" carb height.

Worst case, if rain prevents any testing before the bracket finals, I will just go with what I've got, ("Option C")? - and be a sand-baggin' SOB.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: FootbrakeJim,

The grid with the added ARC module will slow you down, I wouldn't advise letting other racers know you're using it at a bracket race though.

Here’s something easy to try that will definitely slow you .3 or more and it’ll totally confuse your opponent. When you get to the 330 cone lift completely off the throttle and then do a 1000 / 1, 1000/2 count and then slam the pedal to the floor. Nothing in the rules says you have to keep the pedal floored.

Here’s something I did back in 2010 to run a 10.20 heads up class when I was using Dig 7 (75301) ignition. Because I couldn’t slow my car down enough to run the class because of MFI I did this. I programmed the Dig7 Output Switch to turn ON my Shift Light just as I approached the 660 mph cone. When the light went ON I lifted completely off the pedal. When the Output Switch timed out and the Light went OFF, I slammed the pedal to the metal. By adjusting the Shift Light ON time I was able to easily run the class index. Nothing in the rules said that I couldn’t do this. And I was honest with them and told them exactly what I was doing and how I was doing it when questioned.

After I was leading the points by the third race and others were PO at what I was doing they published a rule the day before the race that made what I was doing not legal. Lucky for me a friend found out about this early in the week and gave me a heads up.

So I put my Dig7 7531 in that was NOT stated as being illegal in this series and programmed an early rpm map after launch that sounded like a stutter box. This worked even better than lifting off the throttle at the 660. I now had complete “programmable” control of the run.

Always read the rules of the race and adhere to them. Always be honest if questioned what is in your car electronically. If in doubt about anything, ask if legal.

I noticed Jim didn't consider leaving in 2nd gear. High if you have a power glide.

Well, Friday night did get washed out, so I need to settle on a strategy for this coming weeknd's points race, and hopefully find something that will work the following week for the bracket finals.

quote:

Originally posted by SST386:
The grid with the added ARC module will slow you down, I wouldn't advise letting other racers know you're using it at a bracket race though.

I claim ignorance on my part - What is "ARC"?

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
Here’s something easy to try that will definitely slow you .3 or more and it’ll totally confuse your opponent. When you get to the 330 cone lift completely off the throttle and then do a 1000 / 1, 1000/2 count and then slam the pedal to the floor. Nothing in the rules says you have to keep the pedal floored.

Good point, Markemark! I did sort of the same thing up in Denver a few years ago, ran an index class that was a full half-second slower than my car. I would lift on my 2-3 shift, like I was driving a stick-shift in an old truck with bad syncro's. It actually worked really well, made 2 finals in 4 races that way. But it was 1/4 mile. Hmmm - Thinking now maybe do that on my 1-2 shift this coming weekend...

quote:

Originally posted by ferndaleflyer:
I noticed Jim didn't consider leaving in 2nd gear. High if you have a power glide.

Fern, It is a TH-400. I will be using the trans brake. It doesn't have a 2nd gear launch option. (Wish it did, though!) .

This message has been edited. Last edited by: FootbrakeJim,