New combo to us is running slower than I anticipated by better than half a second. I can match this one up parts wise pretty easily for comparison.
This is my son's car and we used a converter out of my old combo. I can't recall for certain if this one still has a sprag in it.
Any way to troubleshoot or check out a converter other than sending it out?

Only way I know of is to check the stall and compare it to what it should be or what it was in the old combo. Of course the HP/Torque would have to be the same to get the same results.
I had a sprag slipping years ago and had a hard time diagnosing it. Basically last thing I thought of and sent it in.

Need the converter guru's to chime in.



Dave

it might wrong for combo,but if it is not really loose or really tight its probabaly not bad.in the heat most of us are in if its a little tight you will be slow.since cobo is new to you likely needs tweaking in more than one place

Replay tach, or video.
Dead stall rpm, flash rpm, and fall back on the shift rpm, then call Bob at FTI.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Replay tach, or video.
Dead stall rpm, flash rpm, and fall back on the shift rpm, then call Bob at FTI.

Will he be slow like you, if he takes that approach?

A sprag issue costing you half a second would be fairly obvious. Dead stall would be way low and/or it would be a huge dog out of the hole.

It would likely tug the engine way down at the shift also.

Probably not a sprag if the ET issue is linear and the ET and MPH make sense with each other. Could still be a converter issue, where the bearing is destroyed and it can’t multiply torque. But I believe the stall would still be normal in that case. Been a while since I’ve had that one.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Replay tach, or video.
Dead stall rpm, flash rpm, and fall back on the shift rpm, then call Bob at FTI.

Will he be slow like you, if he takes that approach?

Your point? I'm quicker and more consistent with an FTI worked Coan. ??

I'm not interested in quicker, been 6.48, and 6.39 puts me into a whole barrel of BS I have no need or desire for.

If I went faster I'd probably start running over track fixtures....

I don't recall anywhere on the application where I had to get certified by you that my junk is fast enough??? Did I miss the memo?

I'd tell you to get a job, but I know you can't do that.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Replay tach, or video.
Dead stall rpm, flash rpm, and fall back on the shift rpm, then call Bob at FTI.

Will he be slow like you, if he takes that approach?

Your point? I'm quicker and more consistent with an FTI worked Coan. ??

I'm not interested in quicker, been 6.48, and 6.39 puts me into a whole barrel of BS I have no need or desire for.

If I went faster I'd probably start running over track fixtures....

I don't recall anywhere on the application where I had to get certified by you that my junk is fast enough??? Did I miss the memo?

I'd tell you to get a job, but I know you can't do that.

You convinced me fake news Libtard, I should call Bob too

I worked on the US capital building in DC right after 911, bomb proofing every bit of glass on the Capital building the Longworth Building, The Rayburn senate offices and the Library of Congress, after going through an FBI background check. I did get a a ticket in the mail for running a red light like 10-12 years ago.

Nobody contacted any track fixtures, but you already know this because you've seen the photo's of the finish line block sitting on the finish line behind the cars un-moved.

You Libtards are something else, you want your government to be honest, but you can't complete a sentence without lying - twisting the fabric of reality.

That's called a hypocrite or a libtard whichever you prefer.

My point is, in the category I run sbc n/a 3200 lbs. Which is the same category you run, there ain't no FTI converter to outrun my TSI converter. We both know you're slow, so there's no fake news in anything I'm saying. Never is, I bring evidence of every claim I make, like any rational person would.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Replay tach, or video.
Dead stall rpm, flash rpm, and fall back on the shift rpm, then call Bob at FTI.

Good advice there but I do prefer Hughes converters. There is not a lot of magic in the converters the deal is to get right stall and they have to have good information in and experience to do it. I know some who have sent converters back 3 times or more before they got it right. Hughes nailed mine exactly where we wanted it first time. Now I did have good dyno sheets and that helps. I think most any decent converter shop can build a good one, the really good ones get it right the first time.

And Yes, when I broke the sprag in one of my old converters it was a total dog out of the hole and instead of stalling at 6300 was stalling about 4000 and .40 slow if I remember right.

Are we really sure that it is a converter issue? I have seen some strange things in the past. Bad spark plugs that were not missing but motor was down on power. Cam flat where one cylinder just was not doing good. Broken rotor, bad ignition box, timing not where we thought it was.

That’s the problem with a totally new combo. I have no reference point for any of this. I have another converter I will try. I have a long shot fuel system possibility I’m going to address too.
Thanks all!

Oh by no means is it stalling low. If anything higher than I expected

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
Oh by no means is it stalling low. If anything higher than I expected

Then it's narrowed down to:
1- You are making way more HP than the previous engine.
2- Turbine fins are laid over, causing slip, or the stator is doing something weird.

Might want to check for metal in the pan while you're switching converters.

My car is Blue.

Why is it slow???

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
Oh by no means is it stalling low. If anything higher than I expected

Then it's narrowed down to:
1- You are making way more HP than the previous engine.
2- Turbine fins are laid over, causing slip, or the stator is doing something weird.

Might want to check for metal in the pan while you're switching converters.

Come to think of it turbine wise....this converter may have been abused for a few passes in my other car. I didn't think we hurt it.....but it's not far fetched to think we did.