Need a new mid plate for 06 undercover

Does anyone have a contact # for Bill Fredericks. Need a BBC front motor plate for a '02 Undercover. Thank you.

Posts: 1 | Location: gulfport, ms | Registered: June 05, 2018

Ignored post by Tommy Castanedo posted

"The Bender"

DRR S/Pro

posted

You can call Larry Strickland, he and Bill work together.

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Posts: 3103 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009

Ignored post by "The Bender" posted

TORQIN

DRR Pro

posted

Thanks Brian, My sons 07 undercover has a cracked mid plate as well...I will call today!

Posts: 1754 | Location: Houston, Tx. | Registered: November 27, 2008

Ignored post by TORQIN posted

Buck2248

DRR Sportsman

posted

I just got one for my Stepfathers O6 from Bill and fit like a glove. was a little beefier up around the top mount area also with a little more material. and was done very quickly.

Mike Buchwald

Posts: 538 | Location: Caledonia, Mississippi | Registered: January 09, 2001

Ignored post by Buck2248 posted

DRR Elite

posted

Bringing this back for an update…

Discovered yesterday that my non chromed, non coated mid plate is cracked after 6 seasons. This was the replacement for the original that I got from S&W and installed for the start of the 2017 season. It’s never been removed since I installed it so no telling how long it’s been cracked at the top bolt holes as the original one did.

I’ll be calling S&W tomorrow and will order 2, one for a spare.

Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000

Ignored post by 1320racer posted

Big Steve

DRR S/Pro

posted

The one I made myself back in 2015 using 6061 aluminum plate still hanging in there, even with 5 seasons holding a blown TD motor in place.

Posts: 2544 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010

Ignored post by Big Steve posted

Curly1

DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1

posted

I had to make a custom plate and used a 3/8" plate from S&W that had bolt holes for block and trans but blank every where else. I used 3/8 because I wanted it a little stronger there. They make them in 1/4 to. Easy to do if you can not get what you want made.

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Posts: 4282 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011

Ignored post by Curly1 posted

DRR Elite

posted

quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
The one I made myself back in 2015 using 6061 aluminum plate still hanging in there, even with 5 seasons holding a blown TD motor in place.

I’ll find out what aluminum they normally use.

Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000

Ignored post by 1320racer posted

markemark

DRR Pro

posted

quote:
Originally posted by 1320raceriscovered yesterday that my non chromed, non coated mid plate is cracked after 6 seasons. This was the replacement for the original that I got from S&W and installed for the start of the 2017 season. It’s never been removed since I installed it so no telling how long it’s been cracked at the top bolt holes as the original one did.

Do you use the mount on the transmission tail shaft housing?

Posts: 2680 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009

Ignored post by markemark posted

Big Steve

DRR S/Pro

posted

6061-T6 is most common but 7075-T6 is substantially stronger and used in aircraft

Posts: 2544 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010

Ignored post by Big Steve posted

DRR Elite

posted

Thanks Steve

Mark, no

Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000

Ignored post by 1320racer posted

WHOMPWHOMP

DRR Pro

posted

I have several from undercover but for some reason they are not for sale..like their gone be worth something one day lol

Posts: 1275 | Location: USA | Registered: December 04, 2008

Ignored post by WHOMPWHOMP posted

DRR Elite

posted

Just ordered 2 mid plates from Randy at S&W, will ship later this week.

Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000

Ignored post by 1320racer posted

Big Steve

DRR S/Pro

posted

Did they say what material they use?

Posts: 2544 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010

Ignored post by Big Steve posted

CURTIS REED

DRR S/Pro

posted

quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
Did they say what material they use?

You can safely bet they are 6061

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Posts: 3143 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007

Ignored post by CURTIS REED posted

67TSCHEVY2

DRR Pro

posted

if the chassis wasn,t flexing so bad the plate would be a no issue .... 15 plus year old tubing flexing might be nearing the end of its service life.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 67TSCHEVY2,

Posts: 1259 | Location: middle georgia | Registered: July 20, 2003

Ignored post by 67TSCHEVY2 posted

TORQIN

DRR Pro

posted

I made my undercover mid plate out of steel, NEVER had an issue again...ran for 2 years after changing aluminum mid plate twice. Bill refused to make a steel one as a matter of fact. All my American dragsters have steel mid plates in them for years, no issues.

Posts: 1754 | Location: Houston, Tx. | Registered: November 27, 2008

Ignored post by TORQIN posted

CURTIS REED

DRR S/Pro

posted

quote:
Originally posted by TORQIN:
I made my undercover mid plate out of steel, NEVER had an issue again...ran for 2 years after changing aluminum mid plate twice. Bill refused to make a steel one as a matter of fact. All my American dragsters have steel mid plates in them for years, no issues.

That is a good call. I've machine quite a few aluminum plates for friends and nobody every wanted to run a steel one.

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Posts: 3143 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007

Ignored post by CURTIS REED posted

DRR Elite

posted

a steel mid plate is not the answer, that will only cause something else to crack

quote:
Originally posted by 67TSCHEVY2:
if the chassis wasn't flexing so bad the plate would be a no issue .... 15 plus year old tubing flexing might be nearing the end of its service life.

my tubing is 9 years old and they all flex by design. original chromed mid plate was found cracked after season 3 and this one found cracked after 6 seasons.

NBD, new mid plate will be installed and car & driver will continue to turn on lamps and collect checks.

Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000

Ignored post by 1320racer posted

TOP38

DRR S/Pro

posted

They are 6061 aluminum and should be 7075. Dan Page Race Cars just made one for a friend of mine, so he now has the program to make one if you need from 7075!

Whether the problem is 6061 vs 7075 or the back portion of the chassis is not stiff enough or other remains to be up for debate. I do know there is an issue with these cars and that my 04 Page car has never had this issue nor have any others.

BTW 7075 has almost twice the strength as 6061.

Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000

Ignored post by TOP38 posted