Well at the beginning of my winter rebuild I never thought about getting a new converter. I rebuilt and re-aligned my steering / front suspension, put a new firewall in, built a new steering shaft, put turn outs on the headers to get rid of the turn downs that kicked up so much dust, rebuilt my 388 I ran before and am using Line2line coatings for the first time. I also am adding a new sfi bell to my trans and shortened my wheelie bars. I had to re-wire a bit after adding the new firewall. It's been a busy off season.

Reading another thread about converter stall / fallback really got me thinking so I called Marco and ordered a new converter. When I told him I footbraked my roadster he got a laugh out of it and thought it odd since very few roadsters are run in this class. My last converter would flash to 5800 off the foot and fall back 1000rpm after the shift. We agreed on needing to loosen it to 6200-6300 and have less fallback. I will come back to this post once I have made some passes this year and update how it's going. Anyway I just wanted to support the people who help keep this board up and running and thought I would make a post about how it works out.

Excellent update Curtis and will be following your new converter build after install. How many runs were on the engine prior to rebuilding? Same 4.060 pistons or new?

I recently watched THIS Bogacki FB video of Justin Lamb answering a converter question. What he recommends is 110% right imho.

Late last year I did a planetary change that increased the SLR considerably and I’m not satisfied with what I presently have for flash stall. I’m switching engines sometime late this summer and would like a change. Although my converter / transmission builder is 15 minutes from my house, every time I want something done it’s 3 weeks. Because of this I’m considering a new converter based on my last build of being cut two times to get it improved (what I originally requested). My experience of what I receive has been different than requested. I don’t call missing it 150+ rpm right. At $1300 a build I want it right, not close. Maybe I’m too fussy.

Marco is awesome, he nailed it on the converter for the TD and PST both. Great guy to work with

Mark I only had 306 runs on the engine. I had a self I diced problem that caused too much PtoW clearance and blowby got to be an issue. I threw my top end on an old 355 short block that was sitting under a table to keep racing. That was mid ‘22 and I have been racing with that engine until I had a head gasket go away at our last race.

The 388 is exactly the same as it was with a fresh hone, new rings and coated pistons to close up the wall clearance. I did switch to Mickeys last year but other than that it’s all the same so any differences should show up immediately. My old converter was an FTI 8” that was pretty aggressive to 60’. When I bought the FTI it didn’t flash as high as I had hoped but I think my light weight and low hp makes it tougher to get what I want. 60’ was 1.20 best and usually 1.24-1.25 in the heat. Low to mid 5.70s in the heat. All off the foot.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
Marco is awesome, he nailed it on the converter for the TD and PST both. Great guy to work with

He was cool on the phone. Said the only time he had been in Oklahoma was on his way to race Ennis. I told him it was probably a smart move to keep rolling through.

My 2 cars have a 6200,and a 6400 convertor, off the t-brake and chipped at 3600 on the bottom bulb car and 4k off the top bulb car fall back is about 800 off each on a small block car i would'nt run under 6k for a stall, we shift at 7k to 7.2k if you have a play back tach or data recorder you live in a 1k to 1200 RPM range anyhow if you play it back, this in the 1/8th

quote:

Originally posted by HR3377:
My 2 cars have a 6200,and a 6400 convertor, off the t-brake and chipped at 3600 on the bottom bulb car and 4k off the top bulb car fall back is about 800 off each on a small block car i would'nt run under 6k for a stall, we shift at 7k to 7.2k if you have a play back tach or data recorder you live in a 1k to 1200 RPM range anyhow if you play it back, this in the 1/8th

I do have a data recorder.

I'm running a Chance converter that I got used last year. It's way too tight, drops over 1600 rpm on the shift, yet I was still able to run a personal best with it. I did talk to Marty and got a different stator for it, but it flashed WAY too high, somewhere in the 7300 range. I'm putting a data recorder on the car now, and once I get a run or two with good data, we're gonna look at a different stator again. I'd love to just order a brand new one, but not in the cards. My old converter will get sent out at some point this year to get redone, and it will become my n/a converter.....