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Crank Trigger Timing Problem
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DRR Pro
Picture of RacerVX54
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by markemark:
quote:
Originally posted by RPROGAS:
After contemplating what would be necessary to convert from the 7AL-3 to the GRID, and believe me it's a massive harness changeover in this car,


The 7720 has 4 loose wires to connect. Pos /Neg to the battery and the wires to the ignition coil. The rest plug directly into Grid 7730 that gets mounted on top of 7720. No Brainer.


Mark is 100% correct Going grid is a no brainer to be honest.


"Just Shut Up and Race"

Brian Martin
Martin Racing
5.50 126
 
Posts: 1421 | Location: Va.Beach .Va | Registered: August 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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A better explanation of my situation would clear up my decision to buy the 7330:

When I installed the Mega 450 the Autometer Tach, the shifter and the new dash in this car years ago the source of nearly all of the connections came from the original 7AL-3 (7230). Replacing it with the 7720 Grid would then require completely re-wiring the car that can't be done without removing the body from (Davis '27 Roadster). I store the car in the trailer and work on the car in the trailer.

We are now in the first few days of summer, where I live (Lakeside, Ca.) the summer heat extends into mid October. The temperature in my trailer yesterday was 112 degrees by next week it will be over 115. I work on this by myself with no crew, no help and have no place to safely store the body while I re-wire the car. If this wasn't the situation I probably have bought the 7720 Grid, not the 7330 7AL-3. My wife continues to remind me that I'm 79, not 29 we don't even have kids that young most of them are in their mid to late 50's.

Would it have been easier to buy and install the Grid 7720, no question, provided that the body was off the chassis.

Bob
 
Posts: 3209 | Location: Lakeside, Ca | Registered: February 15, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of Mitch H
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by RPROGAS:
A better explanation of my situation would clear up my decision to buy the 7330:

When I installed the Mega 450 the Autometer Tach, the shifter and the new dash in this car years ago the source of nearly all of the connections came from the original 7AL-3 (7230). Replacing it with the 7720 Grid would then require completely re-wiring the car that can't be done without removing the body from (Davis '27 Roadster). I store the car in the trailer and work on the car in the trailer.

We are now in the first few days of summer, where I live (Lakeside, Ca.) the summer heat extends into mid October. The temperature in my trailer yesterday was 112 degrees by next week it will be over 115. I work on this by myself with no crew, no help and have no place to safely store the body while I re-wire the car. If this wasn't the situation I probably have bought the 7720 Grid, not the 7330 7AL-3. My wife continues to remind me that I'm 79, not 29 we don't even have kids that young most of them are in their mid to late 50's.

Would it have been easier to buy and install the Grid 7720, no question, provided that the body was off the chassis.

Bob


In your shoes I would do the same thing. The 7330 will be a direct swap, and a better box.
 
Posts: 154 | Location: PA | Registered: December 31, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Thanks for the reply Mark.

Now all I have to do is to figure out what I inadvertintly entered in the "Settings" memory of the Grid to figure out why the system retarded the timing 13 degrees.

Bob
 
Posts: 3209 | Location: Lakeside, Ca | Registered: February 15, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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I'd bet You didn't add anything Bob....

Like I said I had the same issue using that combo of a Grid controller and a red 7AL3

When I installed the crank trigger and lined up the pickup with the timing mark at 35 degrees that was when I found the issue....

The timing was way off once I started the engine and put a timing light on it....

Once I looked at the distributer pickup that I HAD been using before installing the crank trigger....it was off as well....

Both showed over 10 degrees off and I think it was retarded....


With the new Grid combo both the crank trigger pickup and the distributer pickup were right on at 35 degrees and there was 1 degree difference when I switched from crank trigger to distributer pickup...

I had to move the crank trigger pickup back to where I started!

It will be interesting if your new black box fixes it....If it does your crank trigger pickup should be close to being aligned with a wheel magnet at 35 degrees....plus or minus a couple degrees at most....
 
Posts: 2735 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Same here Rich, it changed without me touching anything. I ended up setting it statically, fired it off and it was short (32 degrees) by 3. Moved the pick-up 1 1/2 places and it was dead on at 35. As I said in the PM, really strange. I would not recommend this combination, Mark was correct should have initially gone with the 7720

Hoping to pick up about 100 MPH with the switch to the 7330.....right!

Bob
 
Posts: 3209 | Location: Lakeside, Ca | Registered: February 15, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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100 might be a little optimistic...

I'd be happy with 99... Eek
 
Posts: 2735 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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