quote:

Originally posted by banjo:
Mike,

It shows 210psi when hot and at idle.

Thanks Larry

For future reference when talking pressure, where it tops out around 2,000 to 2,200 rpm is the operating pressure. What is the pressure there? ... 235?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

That post was by me. I was thanking Larry for his input from his previous post.

I have a high volume pump, I know on the transbrake, it shows 235, which is what it is regulated to. Never checked it at 2000 though.

quote:

Originally posted by banjo:
That post was by me. I was thanking Larry for his input from his previous post.

I have a high volume pump, I know on the transbrake, it shows 235, which is what it is regulated to. Never checked it at 2000 though.

That's a good split 210 to 235. I agree with Larry.

Ultimately you wanna build the transmission in a fashion that gives you the best possible opportunity for a performance advantage. If you're heads up racing or Pro Tree index racing you gotta do what you gotta do to keep up. Bracket racing is endurance and consistency. The less clutches, the less endurance. The less endurance, the less consistency.

You know how to do the work banjo. Don't hesitate in doing it. Stretch out if it sounds like a good time.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by banjo:
So do you get any less longevity out of a 4 clutch setup vs a 5 or 6?

I guess I dont understand how extra steels would cause a drag, as they are just spacers.


Thabks

When the reverse clutches are applied the steels ears are loaded against the case to keep them from rotating, they can dig into the aluminum, this is why case savers were invented

It finally occurred to me what you were getting out. But I was thinking, if you put the extra steels on the pressure plate side, and not the piston side, they don't have to move for the clutches to release and wouldn't cause a bind. I could definitely see the potential for issues if you install them on the piston side as they have to move in order for the clutches to release.

Also found another thing that may explain my inconsistent reaction times. For the transbrake valve in the valvebody, I have the one that has the spring on the end. So just manual pushing it in and out, it sticks. So I scrubbed the valve and the valvebody. Still doing it. Found the valve is tweaked about .020. So ordering a new valve. That may be one of those things that I just change out yearly.

Don't know if valve needs to be changed regular but sounds like something to add to the check every so often list. Heck pull solenoid,pull valve,check and reinstall . Sounds like free insurance. Then I believe in constant maintenance on a race car even if its not broke.