quote:

Originally posted by banjo:
I measured the thickness and it measured at .119. I believe before I had it sitting at .015 and play. What I was planning on doing was adding a shim to the rear on the output shaft and removing the same amount from the pump.

What prevents the ringgear from walking front to back?

Regarding the number of reverse clutches and discussion, Will I see a difference in anything, performance or longeveity?

This is a Reid powerglide case, the case should be plenty for what I am doing.

For some reason I thought you were working with a stock case. A stock case would not cause this anyway. It was just something i mentioned because I thought for some reason you were working with a stock case.

You gotta think about how this works. When you put it in high gear, the distance between the cover and the retainer is being subtracted from the end play. Put the cover on the drum with the retainer and see how much slop you have. ideally you want no slop but if the cover is .119, you have slop. So add a little to the end play on the pump side. That should fix it.

less clutches, less drag. You don't need 6 or 7 reverse clutches whichever it is you have now. Clutches are overrated.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

Bill, Something to do while you are waiting on converter.. Check out this from Sonnax. Just another upgrade to the program.

Dave

Thanks for the input Mike, I will do that.

Dave, I already got it, it was a planned upgrade.

Bill, I will look at the converter when she gets here. As far as using the ring gear stabilizer you can not bolt it to that planet. You have to push the pins through and weld it and then put the pins back where the belong. They have been out of stock forever though. I wanted to make but they have a patent on it!!. I would look at ring gear end play as well. You need to make sure you have enough ring gear clearance to make up for pressure plate to snap ring movement. If you wanna call me it might be easier to explain when you have the parts in your hand and I am on the phone!!

Greg

quote:

Originally posted by banjo:
Thanks for the input Mike, I will do that.

Dave, I already got it, it was a planned upgrade.

I always wondered why your car didn't run as well in high gear as it does in low gear. Just look at it real good. This is why to be safe I can get away with .015 to .020 on end play when I come across a cover that measures .120 and you couldn't. You checking end play with the transmission laying flat on a bench, the slop in the cover is in play when it's not with a transmission that is hanging. Just look at it real close, use your common sense. Good luck, you're gonna be closer but not outrun me still (sarcasm) LOL!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

Hey Greg,

Justin hooked me up already, the converter was sent back to me yesterday, he said everything look good.

I got one of those stabilizer, didn't realize it until you said it, but my planets don't have the bolts so you are correct.

I will give you a hollar later today. Thanks

Mike,

When you are checking the endplay with the transmission hanging, where do you have your dial indicator? Input shaft or output shaft?

Also if I remove a clutch from the reverse, does it make a difference if I take from the top vs the bottom of the stack?

You had the equivalent of holding onto the brake pedal when you stuck it in high gear. I can't wait to hear how it runs in high with the adjustments. I know the engine makes really good power for what it is (23 sbc). Keep it updated if you think of it Banjo.

You can drop that steel in there under the pressure plate banjo.

With a transmission hanging, in order to take the slop in the drum cover out of the equation, read the end play off the input.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

I agree with you, I always felt the car didn't run what it should on the high end. Curious to see if this makes a difference. Transmission has always has 6 clutches back there.

You seem to think I am in for some good gains, what have you seen making these adjustments?

I got all new bearings. I guess clearances were on the tight side when I put things together and as this wore, they start rubbing. The inconsistantcy was driving me crazy. Hoping like crazy this will remedy my issues and it would be nice to pick up a bit

quote:

Originally posted by banjo:
I agree with you, I always felt the car didn't run what it should on the high end. Curious to see if this makes a difference. Transmission has always has 6 clutches back there.

You seem to think I am in for some good gains, what have you seen making these adjustments?

I got all new bearings. I guess clearances were on the tight side when I put things together and as this wore, they start rubbing. The inconsistantcy was driving me crazy. Hoping like crazy this will remedy my issues and it would be nice to pick up a bit

I can't say I've ever tested negative end play in high gear dunno, but I've been 114.50 mph. I think we have similar power/weight 23 sbc. If you get going anywhere near that, with a 1.29 60 ft, you're gonna be going a lot better!. Taking a clutch out of reverse I dunno, I've never taken just one out.

I think you're gonna be pleased overall. Usually when you're happy,typically a guy is also confident.

Just my 2 cents but IMO you want the least amount of steels in the reverse pack. The steels are jammed against the case and will drag when the TB is release, the less drag the quicker release. I have 5 and 5 in my TD, if you have 6 dont just add steels to make up the differance, get a new piston and have it machined to give you the proper clearance, mine is set at .055 in the reverse pack. I got the clutch pack pack with piston ready to go from Coan and it was perfect

FYI, most of the SBC bracket Powerglides I build are 4 reverse clutches. [even with trans brake leave and 700 + horse] I install the thickest reverse piston I have on hand and substitute steels for fibers to make the stack at least .070 to as much as .095 clearance. A few are 3 reverse clutches for the lower powered foot brake packages.

So do you get any less longevity out of a 4 clutch setup vs a 5 or 6?

I guess I dont understand how extra steels would cause a drag, as they are just spacers.

Was thinking about trying a 4 clutch setup, got a couple of races left to try it. If it doesnt work work well, I can put the clutches back in the off season.

Thinking out loud here, it terms of cooling. Would it be better to space the clutches out or have them all stacked together?

Thabks

quote:

Originally posted by banjo:
So do you get any less longevity out of a 4 clutch setup vs a 5 or 6?

I guess I dont understand how extra steels would cause a drag, as they are just spacers.


Thabks

When the reverse clutches are applied the steels ears are loaded against the case to keep them from rotating, they can dig into the aluminum, this is why case savers were invented

quote:

Originally posted by banjo:
So do you get any less longevity out of a 4 clutch setup vs a 5 or 6?

I guess I dont understand how extra steels would cause a drag, as they are just spacers.

Was thinking about trying a 4 clutch setup, got a couple of races left to try it. If it doesnt work work well, I can put the clutches back in the off season.

Thinking out loud here, it terms of cooling. Would it be better to space the clutches out or have them all stacked together?

Thabks

Trust the plan.

Banjo, you will be fine with a 4 clutch pack and the service life will be good. The extra steel can be at the piston or at the upper retainer, does not matter. I suggest stacking fiber, steel alternating in a conventional manner. The reverse clutch has little to no wear in service because it is applied when the clutch pack is stationery. The four clutch pack will easily hold your combination.

By itself, the performance increase will be small. However, as you understand, many small things add up.

I got a little work done last night, I rebuild the planet with all new needle bearings and bushings. it definitely feels to spin smoother. There is also significantly less up and down movement on the gears. Not sure if this is what was allowing the ring gear to move.

So next question,

Any reason why I should change these clutches out other than I have it a part.? They all look in perfect condition. No signs of overheating. You can read the writing on the forward clutches. Was also considering dropping a clutch out for the forward pack where I currently have 7 clutches in there. All the reverse clutches measure between .097-.099. Anyone know what they measure new?

What is your take?

How much pressure?

Banjo, all look just fine and can be reinstalled. And for what it's worth to you, I recommend 5 high clutches.

Again, by itself a small gain, but add many small gains together ---------

Mike,

It shows 210psi when hot and at idle.

Thanks Larry

Another thing when I built it several years ago, I don't think when i check the endplay I had the pump gasket in there. Measured the gasket, that's. 015, so my end play was probably in the .030-.035 range.

You all can have a laugh on me. I had stuck the valve body in the pan, and I was looking at it and noticed I am missing the manual valve. Tore my shop a part, could not find it. So I ordered a new one with the other stuff I ordered. I get the the new valve and find it will not fit. So I looking closely at the valve body moving it around, next I know, the manual valve falls out. I was looking at the wrong hole. It was surely a dah moment.