I have seen ideas about using a nitrous plate, small elec pump with regulator and getting an alky engine to start, idle and shut down at the end of a day's racing on gas.
How big are holes on the spray bar?
Facing up or down?
Fuel pressure?
I am thinking a 3-gallon fuel cell in rear, 1/4" hose. probably use 110 race gas with a good shot of SeaFoam, Marvel Mystery Oil or Klotz Uplon lube like I have for alky. Want a way to dry out the cylinders at the end of a race day as well as get a warmer start with less ring-wash on cool mornings.
This is a pretty mild 406" small block.

Appreciate you all. thanks!
Jok

http://www.killerrons.com/primer.cfm

always ran the above when on alcohol. Absolute life saver on alcohol. When pulling off the track after a round on a cold day I would usually switch to gas for the ride back to the trailer and try and get plenty of heat in the engine so that when I was called back to the lanes there was still heat in the engine.

Jok

If you are just idling, you don't need to run 110, you won't have enough cylinder pressure to cause detonation.

2nd the primer plus

Joe

The six 0.020” dia holes are mounted facing up on the intake. Rons supplies a #50 pill located on the 3an entrance of the spray bar and after the adjustable needle valve. You need a fuel solenoid (I use a 18080NOS) mounted at the entrance to the needle valve to keep fuel from being siphoned when not running on gas. It’s wise to support the needle valve assembly to keep from breaking the 3an fitting from vibration. I use a NOS metal mount attached to the passenger rear corner of the intake carb mount stud.

At the rear mounted 3 gal fuel cell filled with 93 octane, I use a Red Holley pump with 6an hose and dead head it at the front fuel regulator set to 7.5 psi.

I won’t lie, mine is set on the rich side to drive around with and I’m fine with this. Those plugs are 500 runs old and still work perfect with gaps burnt open to 0.043” . You’d be amazed at what Grid will fire.

In my primer, I use 110 and dont mix anything with it. If I do run 93, then i run non ethanol fuel. Gas in itself does a really good job of lubricating and washing the alky out of the engine. At the same time, if i was going to use 93 non ethanol all the time, i would add some lead substitute and mmo or lucas fuel treatment mixed in.

Back when I ran a Rons gas primer I mixed 110 with 93 pump gas at 50/50

I'm down to about 1 gallon of 110 with 4 gallons of ethanol-free 91. My 14:1 632 will want to run-on a little bit with straight pump gas.

I ran straight 110 for a long time, but that ends up being a lot of money to warm up and drive to the lanes.

Anyone have any pics of the entire system installed. I don't have alot of room under the carb and am wondering if I can make this work.

Thanks !!

I've used regular unleaded before from the generator can, sounded like the motor was making popcorn. Never again. 100LL from the airport is enough but i'm at the racetrack more often than im at the airport so i usually just buy whatever cheapest race gas they have.

Primer plus is the only option here IMO. Unless you remove the alky system and bolt on a gas carb. If it's injected you could put some VERY large pill in it and try to run it on gasoline but that would be difficult to get right.

quote:

Anyone have any pics of the entire system installed. I don't have alot of room under the carb and am wondering if I can make this work.

Mine is a 30 yr old Rons PP plate that is 3/4” thick and drilled for both 4150 /4500. You could mount the needle valve and fuel solenoid remotely from the plate if desired. Add a fuel cell and pump to feed.

quote:

Originally posted by Toad1:
I have seen ideas about using a nitrous plate, small elec pump with regulator and getting an alky engine to start, idle and shut down at the end of a day's racing on gas.
How big are holes on the spray bar?
Facing up or down?
Fuel pressure?
I am thinking a 3-gallon fuel cell in rear, 1/4" hose. probably use 110 race gas with a good shot of SeaFoam, Marvel Mystery Oil or Klotz Uplon lube like I have for alky. Want a way to dry out the cylinders at the end of a race day as well as get a warmer start with less ring-wash on cool mornings.
This is a pretty mild 406" small block.

Appreciate you all. thanks!
Jok

Jok

First starting your car on alky, assuming you have a carb. Unless the temps drop into the 40's over night, you should have no issues starting on alky. Give it two pumps, turn the motor over with no ignition on for a few seconds, two pumps again then start it. This worked perfect for me everytime. I did not need any throttle when it started.

As for the gas deal, the primer plus works good, you could duplicate it but not sure it's worth the effort. The first systems used jets, similar to NOS jets to get the idle correct. Later they added a external needle valve for finer adjustments. I used pump gas with no issues. I never used the primer plus with a carb but no reason you can't, just will need to shut off the fuel pump to drain the bowls and switch over the the primer plus system.

In general if you run alky, the best thing for the cylinders is put the car in the trailer hot! Alky boils around 145 degrees. Letting it sit when your done racing then starting it later won't get the motor hot enough. This allows alky to pool in the cylinders, suck up moisture and rust the cylinder walls. Using the primer plus at the end of the day is also a good way to get all the alky out of the cylinders. Why the mystery oil? End of the year thing?

If it’s an end of the year thing or if you’re just wanting to dry it up to protect it at the end of the night, get a gallon of 50 to 1 95 octane Husqvarna chainsaw / weedeater and use that. Very clean fuel and already has 2stroke oil to coat the cylinder walls to use in your PP.

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
Anyone have any pics of the entire system installed. I don't have alot of room under the carb and am wondering if I can make this work.

Thanks !!

I’ve never seen it, but I know I’ve read about guys installing a Primer Plus spray bar right into the intake manifold under the carb pad.

I still use a nozzle jet in my system. I tried the needle valve but the fitting broke after 1 weekend of dragster burnouts.

I've seen a home made primer plus system. They used a nitrous plate under the carb and a cheap low pressure fuel pump with no regulator. I don't think they attached the needle valve or the solenoid directly to the plate. 1 gal cell under the hood.

My 15:1 BBC was extremely unhappy when I tried pump 93 Octane gas, as a test. It popped and banged, detonated, and didn’t want to shut off well. It worked well with 100 octane pump race gas or aviation 100 octane low lead.
I only used a genuine Ron’s prime plus over a terminator for decades.

Thanks guys. When I get back to Iowa I will have a project. Appreciate your input.
Jok

Jok,

What these guys said! My needle valve didn’t work for crap. I just changed the nozzle if I went to Dallas or Denver. Didn’t take long and no more worries about the valve messing up.

On the terminator I used a .014 air gap on the blades in Denver and .010 in Dallas. Good luck with the carb.

Thanks again.
I can get the 406 started about anytime on alky. Just looking to eliminate cylinder wash and have a way to "put it away" for the day on gas. I have a nitrous plate I will start with and see what happens. With 47 race entries planned for 2024, I have some time to experiment. LOL!