Need some advice on this one.
(As I curse the freaking bean-counter who decided using a plastic screw for a fuel filter air bleed on a $60K truck was a good idea).
I am super cautious about over-tightening ANY fasteners, especially plastic crap. This thing doesn't clamp or hold anything together, and it obviously does not require much torque when tightening. I always use only finger pressure. But it sits a few inches from the exhaust manifold on a turbo-diesel, so my guess is at 114K miles, it has just fatigued. (A-Hole Engineer, Grrr).
ANYWAY, The head of this POS fastener popped off, and the threaded shank is in the mounting head for my fuel filter. I am thinking the drill and EZ-Out extractor may not be a good idea to use here, because any chips of plastic that fall through, will likely foul an injector. And if same cheap-azz engineer who made the call on materials also designed this bleeder screw, it could be hollow, meaning nothing there to drill into but a thin layer. I tried using an awl to rotate the shank, but it is broken off just below flush, and could not get a decent bite. So what are your thoughts? Any and all ideas and advice are welcome. Thinking maybe heat the tip of a small flat-blade screw driver with a torch, and melt it into the plastic, let it cool, and try to unscrew it? Or??
As always, Thanks in advance for your help, it is appreciated!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: FootbrakeJim,

Have the same kind of problem with pool filter plugs, a few years in the sun and the head snaps off. I would go with your idea of the screwdriver first. If that doesn't get it, then you might try just putting a self-taping screw in it and see if it bites. Then you can back it out. Since this is an air bleed it must be at the top and I would think you could pull the filter and vacuum out any plastic pieces.

You might get lucky with a left hand drill bit going slow. I've backed out more than 1 broken bolt this way.

If you can spray it with some Aerokroil too.

Best to let it sit and let it creep in. Best stuff I ever used. I use to use it in my vibration test laboratory where we had a lot of dissimilar metals. Lot of magnesium with tool steel inserts. It should be safe for plastic. I always have a can in the garage since I discovered using it.

Chasracer & Len281, thank you for your ideas. Man, now if I could just combine them, and find a left-handed, self-tapping screw, I think that would be the perfect solution!
Been trying to hunt down a replacement, and none of the usual parts stores have anything. A bit of research tells me this is a rather common problem, as there are many aftermarket pieces - Aluminum, billet, stainless, etc. Napa does show the replacement nylon screw, and some nice brass ones, (that come 5 to a box). (Thinking the plastic ones should be in the 5-pack, and metal ones sold individually).
Anyone else with ideas, please share your thoughts, thanks.

BG7X77, thanks, where do you buy Aerokroil?
No luck on it at O'Reilly or Napa...

Can you not use an easy out? Shouldn't take much to get it out by hand.

Direct or Amazon. Made by KANO labs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005..._c.72FbX3GFS5M?psc=1

Try copy and pasting that.

I'm sure there are some other distributors. I ordered at amazon. They have some other products on their site. Worth a look.

quote:

...where do you buy Aerokroil?

Not comparing products, but if you can't find Aerokroil you might try PB Blaster. It should be readily available.

If this is a DuraMax diesel Merchant Automotive has a aluminum replacement bleeder screws.

https://www.merchant-automotiv...r-Head-Bleeder-Screw

Guys, thank all of you for your input.
I kept working at it with a sharp little 90* pick, managed to dig a small channel in the part and and got it to turn on out. My son stopped by Napa for me, he said they were all out of the brass ones, so he bought 2 of the plastic replacement pieces. I will install one of those until I get a metal one.
In case anyone is ever in a pinch with a similar issue, I was playing around with the broken one and sized it - the thread size is M10x1.5, I suspect a plain short socket-head screw with an O-Ring would work just fine. I will have a spare nylon screw or 2 here, if any of you wants one, it is yours for the asking.

Glad it worked out. Outstanding.

Oh and PB Blaster is great stuff too I just found the Aerokroil years ago and it is awesome. They advertise that it will creep down to the millionths of an inch. I have both in the garage.

I used to purchase Kroil by the 55 gallon drums. Its not cheap but its the best I could find. Used it during large steam turbine disassembly.