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DRR Sportsman
Picture of NEMO963
posted
Doing a little research on oil pans. My current pan is quite old and has been repaired a couple times. I used a “borrowed” pan last race of the year and found my oil pressure dropped off the last 400 feet making me think it has a windage problem and frothing the oil (didn’t do that with my old pan)...so don’t want to keep borrowing it. Asked around and the three I have heard the best personal experiences with are the Olson fab aluminum pan, Moroso 21049, and Milodon 31190. The second two are similar priced, Olson will be more (waiting to call them on Monday). Running Moroso billet pump in a Dragster so sump design not an issue...just want good oil control and steady pressure. Any experience with these or others?


2015 M&M T/D
Nemo
Duty-Pride-Tradition
FTM/PTB
 
Posts: 311 | Location: Firehouse 10 Wichita Ks | Registered: February 15, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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I used the Milodon 31190 for a few years, but the full sump and some hard braking on short tracks, it would lose oil pressure. I switched to the 31187 stepped sump and have had no issues since. Im using the Titan sportsman pump, some minor clearancing is needed, and some minor trimming of the oil pan windage tray is required.
 
Posts: 138 | Location: Midlothian, Texas | Registered: October 19, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TD3550
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I use the 21049 pan with the 22164 billet pump.
No issues at all. On the 632 steel rod motor i had to modify the tray a tad. Reposition it a little bit lower. I run only 6 qts

Accepts 4.75" stroke with most steel rods, and 4.5" with most aluminum rods.
 
Posts: 1397 | Location: Under a Truck | Registered: August 23, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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I have used Both steel and aluminum Dan Olsen pans on my dragster. 7.50 at 177, the pans work great never lose oil pressure even in the shutdown. The only problem with the steel pan is a Moroso billet pump will not work, pan isn't deep enough. I also have a Moroso 20485 with a billet pump on a 598 going 7.20 at 186 in the same car, with this pan it loses oil pressure in the shutdown. I would recommend the Dan Olsen aluminum pan.
 
Posts: 169 | Location: nj | Registered: February 14, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of rusty
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i have olsen on my every day motor i think this top dragster deal has moroso, i can check for pn if needed
l do really like the olsen,if i had specked this other motor it would have been olsen


honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense
1.036, 6.16@ 224

 
Posts: 1327 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of rusty
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20385 on my td motor in stock at scoggins


honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense
1.036, 6.16@ 224

 
Posts: 1327 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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I sure liked the Milidon 31187. This last motor I bought had a Moroso on it, forget the number but the oil light is coming on when braking on a short track so going to do something different next year, I have an accumulator and may put it back on or go back with the Milidon.
On top of that it was a ***** to fit a starter and alternator with the Moroso pan.
 
Posts: 260 | Location: Irving, Texas | Registered: March 24, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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I have a Williams aluminum pan, no oil pressure issues going down the long track but as soon as the chute comes out the oil light comes on. I have the engine apart and the bearings look brand new so even tho I do not like the light coming on I dont think it hurts anything.
There are a few things construction wise I do not like about this pan and was thinking about switching to an Olson pan but just don't know if it would be worth it or not.
 
Posts: 2247 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TD6297
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quote:
Originally posted by ziggy1357:
I have used Both steel and aluminum Dan Olsen pans on my dragster. 7.50 at 177, the pans work great never lose oil pressure even in the shutdown. The only problem with the steel pan is a Moroso billet pump will not work, pan isn't deep enough. I also have a Moroso 20485 with a billet pump on a 598 going 7.20 at 186 in the same car, with this pan it loses oil pressure in the shutdown. I would recommend the Dan Olsen aluminum pan.


Same here, Dan Olsen aluminum.
 
Posts: 149 | Location: Canada | Registered: April 17, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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https://www.facebook.com/pages...on-2218622541692626/

Justin Wake worked for Olson...Very talented fabricator of pans and parts.


Raceless in California!
 
Posts: 4308 | Location: Vacaville  | Registered: January 07, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by stk 758 BP!:
https://www.facebook.com/pages...on-2218622541692626/

Justin Wake worked for Olson...Very talented fabricator of pans and parts.


Looks like he builds some very nice stuff for sure
 
Posts: 2247 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Justin does our pans Steve. Very nice.


Raceless in California!
 
Posts: 4308 | Location: Vacaville  | Registered: January 07, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
just want good oil control and steady pressure.


The majority of what is perceived to be oil pan issues, are not actually "oil pan issues". The issues are typically "you're putting up more then you're bringing down".

Seen this down the track and on the dyno as well. If you want the same amount of oil to be in your pan at the finish line, as you have at the starting line, then you have to think outside the box, and stop copying the wrong design that continues to be seen over and over again.

Worst place to return oil: down the lifter valley.

Worst place for a vacuum pumps inlet line: at the furthest point highest on the engine.

If you knew no better, and had no one to copy off of, you'd agree.

You split the vacuum pumps inlet line and bring one of them down at the pan. You also return oil with external drains, off the cylinder heads rear lowest point and return at the highest area of the pans right and left side.

Once this is done, you will have ascending pressures all the way up with engine rpms, and you'll have no pressure losses. the amount of oil in your sump area will always remain the same, regardless of engine rpm.

You know have created a system that can return better then it can put up, and you're not going to need all those extra quarts to try to prevent those oil pressure losses.


strangemagicperformance.com
oldsperformanceproducts.com




WD dealer for just about all your performance needs.
 
Posts: 1604 | Location: Suffern, NY | Registered: November 03, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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