Does a regular 8-1/4" deep Moroso oil pan clear the crossmember?
What part number have you used?
Do I need to chop up the floor and firewall for a Powerglide?
Finally, ready to drop the engine in and doing some trial fitting.
I have built two s10 blazers. My experience has been anything other than a oem type pan it’s best to releave the cross member. I use mostly a milodon pan #31167. I know it requires a notch in a 92 blazer cross member. For a cheap pan I use a power products pan #pvt21-71088 from competition products and it too needs a notch. All I have tried.
Jok, the note I send pertains to a 1997 model. An earlier model could be different.
The rear sump pans meant for the '62-67 Chevy II, the ones with the hook-notch at the front of the sump clear quite well. I trimmed the hook back a couple inches and welded it back up, just to makes sure, but I don't think it would have needed it, it just makes installing the engine easier.
The one I used looks just like the Trans-Dapt #7569 but was just an Ebay special, think I paid $80 for it with a matching pick-up. Pan was baffled decent and made of thicker material than stock.
We first tried to use the Moroso #20195, the regular flared sump SBC pan, front of sump hits the back edge of the crossmember.
You don't have to do anything to firewall or floor to fit a Glide, but like any V8 swap S-10 I'd recommend you hammer the flange lip where the fire wall meets the floor pan over flat against the floorpan, it will save your fingers if you have to get at the bellhousing bolts or blanket straps.
TH-350 and 400 fit without any cutting also. The only place that really comes close is up around the bellhousing area, where most auto trans are the same shape and size....back around the body of the trans you've got a ton of clearance..
What level are you wanting to build this truck to? I just assembled an 84 S10, only looking to run Sportsman 7.50 and slower. I had a larger pan on the motor and went back to a stock pan as I would have had to notch the crossmember. If I had any plan what so ever of going faster with this truck I would have notched the crossmember. I have a T350 in it and it does fit with the BFH treatment to the floorboard/firewall. If I had any plan of building it faster or to make it neater I would have cut the firewall. I don't know what headers you're using but the full length Hedman inside the frame are tight and you need an oil filter relocation kit or take the left one off to change oil filter.
Thanks a lot for the input.
Looks like the 1st Gen needs some clearance on crossmember.
I am thinking the 406 with good converter this should be a 6.30 truck or close??
Appreciate your help.
Jok, you are correct about the ET range, even faster with good heads, big cam, big carb, Methanol
Hopefully we find out in late July. Has a good set of Brodix Track 1, 406" shortblock from Ohio Crank, 297/305 .640" Lunati roller, 850 Rupert alky carb. I guess we will know about the 4th time we let go of the button and turn it loose (I'm OLD, need a few test runs to make sure brakes, etc actually work LOL!!)
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