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DRR Pro |
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DRR Trophy |
there are a lot of variables how are your cable ends attached to the cables? How much resistance does your cable have? then all connections? Went through this and learned a voltage drop test to find things, and things I did find. Lots of them. Shutoff switch, cable, solenoid, starter cable connection, and quite a bit more. It was easier and a little less expensive in my case, to re-wire the entire car. I switched to 16v many years ago and it's been fine but now that the wiring is all in good condition, it can and very well might go back to 12v. 12v battery is a little less expensive and a 12v charger is considerably less expensive. And everyone's got them. Cant say I have seen a 16v battery charger in a parts store, wal-mart, or really anywhere else other than order it online-but admittedly, "speed shops" do not exist much here, and the few that do, they do not do anything 16v. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
^^^^this^^^^ If people would learn how to do a voltage drop test, they would stop "guessing" at what is wrong. Joe Without data, you’re just another guy with an opinion. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Your both wrong, the issue is wiring the car correctly in the first place. | |||
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DRR Elite |
This^^^ | |||
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DRR Elite |
I may of missed if you said if this is causing a starting problem. Options 16v battery Relocate battery. My M&M was just in front of foot fire wall Run a larger or better cable. Perhaps double up on the 0 gauge. Did you actually use long meter leads and measure from battery pos terminal to starter power terminal? Or just read at starter and assume battery terminal stayed at the no load voltage? Did you check the grounds? Does engine have an actual copper ground to chassis or reliant on mechanical at mid plate bolts? I’m assuming a dedicated ground from battery to engine was not used and the chassis is the ground.This message has been edited. Last edited by: adv ET 266, 2005 2000lb 4 link dragster home brew 582 BBC Dart 355 1.058 2.98 4.629@149 6.094 7.310@185 | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
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DRR Trophy |
Not having issues. Was just wondering if others with dragsters with a single 12v battery in the nose are seeing similar readings at the starter. Anyone actually seeing 9.5+ volts? | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
Correct cable to the starter is only part of the equation here. Absolutely the correct size battery cable matters, but so does the starter choice, grounding, relay choice based off starter, battery choice, on/off switch… the list goes on and on. I’ve fixed dozens of these issues for racers. 90% of the time you’ll find a bad grounding setup, bad crimp or inappropriate starter/relay/battery combination. Does matter if it’s 12v or 16v all this matters. David Lanning Lanning Electric Team Mickey Thompson | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Do you solder, crimp or both on cables? | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
A good crimp with NOx or any copper corrosion inhibitor will work but I solder mine to seal that connection. The shrink wrap it. | |||
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DRR Pro |
a crimp only,can vibrate and crack and loose connection.crimp and solder.yes this has happened to me honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR Pro |
i got words mixed up solder only and it can crack honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Pros and cons to each. To eliminate crimp resistance we soldered the crimps, yes electrically that is the best you can get, however solder can cause a potential for cracking behind the joint. Soldered and secured and isolated from vibration is the optimum configuration, however that is not always possible depending on the location. BG | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Crimp with correct tool, Solder to help seal, then adhesive lined shink wrap. Meziere Tech. Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level. | |||
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