quote:

Originally posted by SLICKSTER:
On my gen 3 with a big block with koni single adj. struts I had to be carefull as hard brake would dive the front end and wolla break beam
with bumper. Got kinda used to it and dumped and then back on the gas. With the strange double adjustable valving struts it doesnt drop as hard as control over the bump side can be as stiff as you want. Double adjustable struts are the ticket but then again I compairing to a single adj. Koni that was designed 35 years ago. Santuff, Afco and Strange are good choices and at the time I would have prefered to get Afco but they were back ordered as were the Santuff.

The car I'm driving just got switched over to Strange double adjustable struts. So I could stiffen the compression to help this?
Also, I wasn't on the brakes at all. I just rolled out of the throttle.
I've got limiters for struts, just don't have them on right now.

I saw a guy Orlando Saturday night Pro et, using this to his advantage, 4th gen black Firebird.

I thought it was pretty cute.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:

Oh and my 4th gen breaks the beams with the same part of the car whether or not the pedal is on the floor, womping or FTBing. No beam breaker or shyt welded to the A arms.

Ed, that's what I want this car to do. I'm here to learn.

Absolutely nothing wrong with utilizing a stripe taker have seen some very well done ones.

Travel limiters to reduce the amount the front end rises?

How about hitting the brakes at the stripe during time trials to run a quicker ET then figure out your dial in. If you hit the brakes at the stripe, you shouldn't red light.

Never had that problem. I run flat out right to the stripe unless my opponent is way behind me and can't catch up in time.

novaX522 yes stiffing the bump will take care of the dive. I got uesd to the front end drop like I said eailier and just raced that way for a while. Dumped a little early and back on the gas if I had room or thought I was getting there to far ahead of the other lane. But as old age catching up to me kinda thought that all the front end travel not really controlled like I thought it should be might not be a good idea so on went the double adjustable route. Stiffen the bump and let us know how that works for you. If you look at 1320racers car when it comes down from the wheelie its one motion and not two as when the wheels land back on the ground. They just settle and thats due to the correct springs,shocks,and front end set up that also keeps it from diving hard when its on the brakes. My gen 3 is now my daughters car and we are just finishing it up with a small block so the front springs will be changed also.

SLICKSTER...KNOWS!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C11fjdJ2_Q0

rd 1 @ 8.08:45
rd 2 @ 8.49:20
rd 3 @ 9.23:00
semi @ 9.49:20
Final @ 10.13:05

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C11fjdJ2_Q0

rd 1 @ 8.08:45
rd 2 @ 8.49:20
rd 3 @ 9.23:00
semi @ 9.49:20
Final @ 10.13:05

Congrats on the $5k win Kyle and Ed. I think your switch to bias tires was a wise choice.

Thanks. I had been a radial slick guy for nearly 20 years on 2 cars but the Bird is Kyle's now and he wants to run bias slicks.

I'll try stiffening the compression next time I race this car. Thanks for the info!

Set the ride height near level, tighten the compression to full unless you have or plan to buy Afco struts with the bnc valving.

Thanks Ed

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Set the ride height near level, tighten the compression to full unless you have or plan to buy Afco struts with the bnc valving.

Ed, are you relying on bump stops on your coilovers at all to limit travel or just controlling the nose with shock valving and ride height?

Ride height and shock valving