Ok just wondered. Figured it to be a regional pricing thing. I have considered changing also but really don’t want to add to my maintenance schedule and also the fumes really get to me and I have a door car. My car runs great on gas and doesn’t heat up so leaving it alone.

quote:

Originally posted by green1:
Ok just wondered. Figured it to be a regional pricing thing. I have considered changing also but really don’t want to add to my maintenance schedule and also the fumes really get to me and I have a door car. My car runs great on gas and doesn’t heat up so leaving it alone.

I've been talking to James Monroe of Killer Ron's a lot lately about it. My cylinder head guy works for Pat Musi. Pat isn't fond of it but then again I'm not running a max effort mountain motor....The biggest thing is going to be on the spray. It's much more forgiving and my combo is touch on the bottle as is...If everything is set up right, there isn't any more maintenance than with gas either.....

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Originally posted by Coloradoracer:

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Originally posted by green1:
What kind of gas are you running that cost that much?

Renegade Pro 116. Have to get it from a petroleum supply company here. Mark Whitner (jmarkaudio) found me better pricing in Orlando, but I still can't justify spending $600-800 a barrel for fuel when I'm not running that much. Yeah, new fuel system will set me back close to $4k, but I can sell my carbs and some other stuff as well as my bonus next year, and that will cover it. I have some other stuff I can sell too. With the lower cost of the fuel, I can race more and recoup a lot of that as well.

Make sure you have room for a drum or 2 in your trailer because you will need it. When bracket racing with a 565 and Terminator driving too and from the lanes plus the 1/8 mile run I would use about 2.5 gallons per run not counting warm ups. With the blown TD I burn about 5 gallons per 1/4 mile run towing too and and from not counting warm ups. 2 weeks ago at the Houston divisional I made 8 runs plus warm ups and burned 60 gallons over the weekend.

Not trying to scare you away from switching to Alky injection because I love it, just giving you real world experiences in fuel consumption.

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:

quote:

Originally posted by green1:
Ok just wondered. Figured it to be a regional pricing thing. I have considered changing also but really don’t want to add to my maintenance schedule and also the fumes really get to me and I have a door car. My car runs great on gas and doesn’t heat up so leaving it alone.

I've been talking to James Monroe of Killer Ron's a lot lately about it. My cylinder head guy works for Pat Musi. Pat isn't fond of it but then again I'm not running a max effort mountain motor....The biggest thing is going to be on the spray. It's much more forgiving and my combo is touch on the bottle as is...If everything is set up right, there isn't any more maintenance than with gas either.....

I have heard a lot about carb maintenance if the car sits any at all and on gas I don’t do anything with mine except winter time.

quote:

Originally posted by green1:
I have heard a lot about carb maintenance if the car sits any at all and on gas I don’t do anything with mine except winter time.

After what I've researched on it so far, I wouldn't run a carb at all. Injection only. But as to a carb, just run it out of fuel and put a little gas in it and done...not a big deal either....

Steve, not worried about that amount of fuel....STILL cheaper than running race gas in my application....but thanks for the info, it gives me something to work off of as well. Very likely going to happen, just want to make sure 100% before I pull the trigger....But so far the advantages FAR outweigh the cons in my stuff...

Its been my experience that fuel consumption with injected big blocks 540+ cubic inches and normally aspirated is usually a function of the idle mixture. I idle my combinations on the lean side and use a high speed lean out. On a single 5" enderle toilet and enderle barrel valve my 565 made 1001 hp 780 tq.

Unlike most i've read, my dyno tune up was also the fastest tune up i ever ran. Timing was at 33, 38 port nozzle, 100 main, 90 h/s set at 58 psi.

Fuel consumption for this motor when i was really looking to minimize fuel use and keep the motor happy was 1.25 to 1.5 gallons per run, driving to and from the trailer. Can't even begin to count how many passes i made over 10 years of racing the combination, some days i had it a little more rich than others but never burned anything higher than 1.5 gallons in a single run. I cool my car down to less than 110 F between runs, lean it out to put heat into it in the lanes and hit the water box at 140F. Basically leave the water pump and fans on the entire time its parked between rounds. Now if i'm hot lapping it usually burns less because it doesn't cool all the way down. If its normally aspirated and you are burning more than 1.5 gallons per run i'd really evaluate the idle mixture and try to lean it out as much as possible. I have never experienced the "richen it up at an idle to make it run harder down low," that's what the main pill is for. If the richer main pill kills some ET on the top end, open the high speed lean out and let some of the fuel go back to the tank.

Main pill is used to make max torque, high speed lean out is used to make max HP. Once you tune both and optimize them, richen a few numbers and never look at it again. enjoy.