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Dead hook or wheel speed. Which is faster?
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DRR Sportsman
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I went through this with my T/D. 1.04 and 4.1x hooked up. Propped it up on the bar and threw the sink at it, .945 3.99.

Problem was it wanted to fall off the tire, like you say, out past .75. I could hit a leanout out there and get it to come down a little smoother. Try to drop it back on the tire sooner and it would just wheelie (or shake, or both).

You’re 0.5 number is pretty decent for the combo, guessing 3100 at .75 or does it fall off before you get there?
 
Posts: 950 | Location: my own little world | Registered: July 20, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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quote:
Originally posted by BJs Wild Ride:
I went through this with my T/D. 1.04 and 4.1x hooked up. Propped it up on the bar and threw the sink at it, .945 3.99.

Problem was it wanted to fall off the tire, like you say, out past .75. I could hit a leanout out there and get it to come down a little smoother. Try to drop it back on the tire sooner and it would just wheelie (or shake, or both).

You’re 0.5 number is pretty decent for the combo, guessing 3100 at .75 or does it fall off before you get there?


That is dead on what I am seeing. I just don't have any sink to throw at it in my case. I have a little in the tune to refine and add some power in specific places. But I think it will be susceptible to weather and track conditions. If I can creep up and into that 1.04 range, that will be acceptable I think. or it's gonna have to be. I could even pull some timing just before the shake area and try to ease through it. Particularly in bracket racing, I just don't have time enough to build the boost I need to power through this area. And bump boxes don't work well with precise staging that we need in brackets.


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6468 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of rusty
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a small timing curve through the shake zone should do it.


honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense
1.036, 6.16@ 224

 
Posts: 1474 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Bucky:
Let's start over: DRAGSTER GUYS
If you have every knob to turn and button to push to control power everywhere in a run....which is faster? I switched to the m/t 3080's this year, and discovered that they can shake too. LOL. Usually about where it starts to hook the tire hard. The tire starts to lose speed at .35 seconds, and goes into shake at .75 seconds. We lowered the tire pressure and it went away. But we don't have enough test runs to figure which approach may be fastest to the 60' for us. 6 psi keeps the shake away, but we have yet to make a really decent 60' run at that pressure.. I hear people say sometimes less is more. Should I pull power before the shake area and work the tire pressure up? Hit the tire hard and try to keep it hooked all the time? Unhooked I have been 1.08, which is not the best for the car. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong. LOL.
Any experience? High 6 second four link dragster with 19 psi boost down track. Small block.


Dead hook or close to it is slower, but can be more consistent.

On your shake deal, I'd say you have two things that are likely causing it besides how your currently setup, tire not a good fit for your combo compounded by the building boost in this area of the run. From reading the post, you have a data logger, post the graph with accel.

Your deal would be much better suited to the little bubba's with the X5 compound IMO!
 
Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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quote:
Originally posted by TOP38:
quote:
Originally posted by Bucky:
Let's start over: DRAGSTER GUYS
If you have every knob to turn and button to push to control power everywhere in a run....which is faster? I switched to the m/t 3080's this year, and discovered that they can shake too. LOL. Usually about where it starts to hook the tire hard. The tire starts to lose speed at .35 seconds, and goes into shake at .75 seconds. We lowered the tire pressure and it went away. But we don't have enough test runs to figure which approach may be fastest to the 60' for us. 6 psi keeps the shake away, but we have yet to make a really decent 60' run at that pressure.. I hear people say sometimes less is more. Should I pull power before the shake area and work the tire pressure up? Hit the tire hard and try to keep it hooked all the time? Unhooked I have been 1.08, which is not the best for the car. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong. LOL.
Any experience? High 6 second four link dragster with 19 psi boost down track. Small block.


Dead hook or close to it is slower, but can be more consistent.

On your shake deal, I'd say you have two things that are likely causing it besides how your currently setup, tire not a good fit for your combo compounded by the building boost in this area of the run. From reading the post, you have a data logger, post the graph with accel.

Your deal would be much better suited to the little bubba's with the X5 compound IMO!


I'll post a shake run. Because I haven't used the photo hosting app and gotten aggravated at it for a while. LOL.

I suspect you are correct. Another difference about that tire of course is the diameter. Larger diameter tires seem to trend to the less shake side for a few reasons. Buying new 16" beadlocks, and slicks wasn't in the budget for this season.

It costs nothing to try pulling some timing before the shake. So I think I will.


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6468 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty:
a small timing curve through the shake zone should do it.


I wonder if it just needs a brief retard to hook the tire and ease out of it?


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6468 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Bucky:
quote:
Originally posted by TOP38:
quote:
Originally posted by Bucky:
Let's start over: DRAGSTER GUYS
If you have every knob to turn and button to push to control power everywhere in a run....which is faster? I switched to the m/t 3080's this year, and discovered that they can shake too. LOL. Usually about where it starts to hook the tire hard. The tire starts to lose speed at .35 seconds, and goes into shake at .75 seconds. We lowered the tire pressure and it went away. But we don't have enough test runs to figure which approach may be fastest to the 60' for us. 6 psi keeps the shake away, but we have yet to make a really decent 60' run at that pressure.. I hear people say sometimes less is more. Should I pull power before the shake area and work the tire pressure up? Hit the tire hard and try to keep it hooked all the time? Unhooked I have been 1.08, which is not the best for the car. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong. LOL.
Any experience? High 6 second four link dragster with 19 psi boost down track. Small block.


Dead hook or close to it is slower, but can be more consistent.

On your shake deal, I'd say you have two things that are likely causing it besides how your currently setup, tire not a good fit for your combo compounded by the building boost in this area of the run. From reading the post, you have a data logger, post the graph with accel.

Your deal would be much better suited to the little bubba's with the X5 compound IMO!


I'll post a shake run. Because I haven't used the photo hosting app and gotten aggravated at it for a while. LOL.

I suspect you are correct. Another difference about that tire of course is the diameter. Larger diameter tires seem to trend to the less shake side for a few reasons. Buying new 16" beadlocks, and slicks wasn't in the budget for this season.

It costs nothing to try pulling some timing before the shake. So I think I will.


Timing will cure the shake and or again else that calms the launch will do the trick also.
 
Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Elite
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I appreciate the great feedback. Thank you most.


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6468 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of rusty
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there is something magic at .7 and i contribute it to tire rebound


honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense
1.036, 6.16@ 224

 
Posts: 1474 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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I think you’re on the right track but don’t make the mistake of trying to fix the shake when the shake occurs. You gotta go way back in time.

Huh?

If it’s falling off the tire at .75, you gotta go back to the time where it got up on the tire too aggressively in the first place. Usually that’s around .25 on most cars but I could see a turbo being a touch later.

Just about everything I’ve looked at wants the timing stepped out at at .25. As much as 18 degrees straight down on the few combos I’ve worked on but I’d try about 7 in your case to start with. Hold it out till .5, then ramp back in. Then the ramp is what you play with to smooth out the wheel speed graph.

Only complication I see is that you may gain a little boost in the .25 to .5 area by having the timing out. Could be good or bad.
 
Posts: 950 | Location: my own little world | Registered: July 20, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Not being smart azz,well this time. The answer as to why you have the shake is in OP. You are not first to say it exactly like this and then wonder why or how to fix. Yes question was which is faster.

You stated that at ,35 you start to loose wheel speed and then shake at .75. IMO adding power at .25 or .3 would get you thru wheel speed and away from shake. Either timing,boost or maybe a lean out.
I have a cpl solenoids on my deal that are air activated,the air is controlled by electric solenoid. Hook that up to a timer and add or subtract fuel as you want. Just giving another option.

Two ways around shake MORE POWER or good amount less.IMO its not the nature of the sport to pull power unless you are smoking the tire and will end up faster. JMO




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4542 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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quote:
Originally posted by BJs Wild Ride:
I think you’re on the right track but don’t make the mistake of trying to fix the shake when the shake occurs. You gotta go way back in time.

Huh?

If it’s falling off the tire at .75, you gotta go back to the time where it got up on the tire too aggressively in the first place. Usually that’s around .25 on most cars but I could see a turbo being a touch later.

Just about everything I’ve looked at wants the timing stepped out at at .25. As much as 18 degrees straight down on the few combos I’ve worked on but I’d try about 7 in your case to start with. Hold it out till .5, then ramp back in. Then the ramp is what you play with to smooth out the wheel speed graph.

Only complication I see is that you may gain a little boost in the .25 to .5 area by having the timing out. Could be good or bad.


Sounds like a pretty good plan.
To WO, if I had power to add, I would. I don't. That's where a big block would work better for this power adder.


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6468 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Anyone see a big difference in dead hook vs wheel speed reaction times?4link dragster low 4.60s?My 60ft will be jump as much as .02 quicker in the worst conditions and have a .045 bulb when it does it.My good friends dragster is doing the same random thing but he thinks its hooking harder and kicking .040 bulbs.(maybe lifting the wheels weird or flexing the chassis )
 
Posts: 6 | Location: Tiusville,Florida | Registered: December 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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